Wooden Decking in Dunbeath

Compare Wooden Decking Prices in Dunbeath

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Wooden Decking in Dunbeath

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable option for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very elegant spaces which you can use year round with the addition of external heating and light. Wooden decking is commonly installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a seamless transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking is available in any size or shape to accommodate any area. Curved designs or large areas connected by pathways can create an attractive effect. Wooden decking is reasonably simple to install and causes little disruption, especially when compared to other possibilities like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of an existing patio. It is necessary however to be certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the load of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a variety of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Commonly decking is made of hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which commonly will involve yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods have become more popular for use in wooden decking as they are more robust and require much less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Dunbeath

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2024

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£1,125

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,500

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,725

£1900

£1425

£950

£475

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Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Dunbeath, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Dunbeath 2024

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

Wooden decking searches in November 2024

Wooden decking Projects in Dunbeath in October 2024

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Requests for quotations in Dunbeath in October 2024

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Dunbeath in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Caithness in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.

Source: Numbers calculated based on the search volumes in major search engines

Wooden decking searches in cities and towns near Dunbeath October 2024

Dunbeath

Dunbeath is a town in south-east Caithness, Scotland on the A9 road. It was the birth place of Neil M. Gunn (1891-1973), writer of The Silver Darlings, Highland River and so on, a lot of whose stories are embeded in Dunbeath as well as its Strath. Dunbeath has an extremely abundant historical landscape, the website of many Iron Age brochs and an early middle ages reclusive site (see Alex Morrison's historical survey, "Dunbeath: A Cultural Landscape".) Of Dunbeath's landscape, Gunn wrote: "These small straths, like the Strath of Dunbeath, have this intimate elegance. In boyhood we get to know every square lawn of it. We encompass it literally as well as our memories hold it. Birches, hazel trees for nutting, swimming pools with trout and also a periodically noticeable salmon, river-flats with the wind on the bracken and disappearing rabbit scuts, a riches of wild flower as well as tiny bird life, the soaring hawk, the unforeseen roe, the old graveyard, ideas of the people who once lived far inland in straths and hollows, the past as well as the present kept in a moment of day-dream." ('My Little Bit Of Britain', 1941.). There is a community museum/landscape interpretation centre at the old village school.

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FAQs

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to build decking on a slope?
You might think that building decking on a slope is a no-go, but it’s actually a great way to help you make use of your garden when the ground is sloping. It will provide you with a level surface that you can BBQ on as well as dine alfresco without finding that your meal is rolling down the table. But how do you build decking on a slope? Our guide in the FAQ above, ‘How to build a raised deck’, is the perfect solution – but we’ll break it down here if you just want to get an idea of what’s involved. Dig out the area If you’re laying on soil or turf, you’ll need to dig it out. Dig down and remove all the turf from the area and ensure that there are no weeds or stones in the area you’re going to build your decking on. Since you’re building on a slope, it will be hard to get it level, but dig out to a depth of 50mm and lay weed-control fabric with gravel over the top. Add posts and set with concrete Make holes for posts and add them in, ensuring they’re longer than you need. Make sure they’re level, then fill the holes with a concrete mix to set them in place. Build the outer frame Make sure you always work at the top of the slope when you’re building your decking, and measure where the highest point of the decking will be. Secure the 4 sides of the outer frame and factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Add joists Secure joists along your frame at 400mm intervals. If you get to the last joist and there will be more than a 400mm gap left at the end, add in an extra one for support. Lay your deck boards Screw your deck boards to the joists, ensuring that the deck boards are running in the opposite direction to the joists. For timber boards, you need to make sure you leave an expansion gap of 5-8mm. These steps should give you an idea of whether you want to have a go at building decking on a slope, or whether you want to leave it to the pros.
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
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