Wooden Decking

Wooden decking

Wooden decking is an increasingly prevalent choice for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very fashionable areas that can be used year round by installing external heating and illumination. Wooden decking is often installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a seamless transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to fit any area. Curved designs or large areas connected by pathways can produce a striking effect.

Wooden decking is relatively easy to install and causes little disruption, particularly when compared to alternatives like patio or paving. It can even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is essential however to be sure that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the load of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking.

There is a choice of species of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Typically decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which commonly requires yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming more popular for use in wooden decking as they are stronger and require significantly less maintenance.

Avg. price low	Avg. price low £765
Avg. price	Avg. price £2,746
Avg. price high	Avg. price high £4,718

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£765

Avg. price

Avg. price
£2,746

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£4,718

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:

Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

Make the outer frame

Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

Add your joists

Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:

Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth

Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:

Step treads (the actual step themselves)
Step risers
Coach screws
Deck screws
Saw
Drill

Make the steps for your deck

Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.

Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:

Decking joists
Coach screws
Coach bolts
Combi drill
Socket set
A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
Pencil
Decking preservative
Sandpaper or sander

Build your subframe

Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.

IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.

Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.

How much decking costs depends on the type of material you go for, how big you want your decking to be and where you live in the country. But typically, the cost of decking is between £1,200 - £1,800. The most popular material for decking is pre-treated softwood, which will set you back around £1,000 for 15m². Hardwood is more expensive but is more durable, and will cost approximately £2,000 for the same amount. Homeowners are also beginning to choose composite decking, which is made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, and is low-maintenance and eco-friendly. This will cost around £1,600 for 15m², while uPVC which is also a low-maintenance option costs around £600. People tend to choose composite over uPVC because it looks more like natural timber. If you’re a competent DIYer, you might want to have a go at laying decking yourself which will set you back around £1,000 for a standard softwood timber deck. We think it’s worth paying the extra £600 for a professional to lay your decking, since they will be able to do it much more quickly. If you do want to try it yourself, we recommend leaving at least a whole weekend open to do it, but it’s likely to take you longer. Factor in the possibility of having to take time off work to complete it and it might be more cost-effective to leave it to the pros.