Wooden Decking in Broseley

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Wooden Decking in Broseley

Wooden decking is an increasingly prevalent choice for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very elegant areas that can be used year round by installing external heating and light. Wooden decking is usually fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to match any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can create an attractive effect. Wooden decking is relatively simple to install and causes minimal disruption, particularly in comparison to alternatives like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of an existing patio. It is crucial however to make certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the weight of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a collection of species of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Often decking is made of hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which typically includes yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming popular for use in wooden decking as they are stronger and require far less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Broseley

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025

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£663

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£1,300

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£1,863

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Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Broseley, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Broseley 2025

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

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Wooden decking Projects in Broseley in December 2024

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Broseley in December 2024. 0% change from November 2024.

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Wooden decking searches in cities and towns near Broseley December 2024

Broseley

Broseley is a little English community in Shropshire, with a population of 4,929 at the 2011 Census. The River Severn streams to its north and also eastern. The very first iron bridge on the planet was integrated in 1779 across the Severn, connecting Broseley with Coalbrookdale and Madeley. This belonged to the very early industrial advancement in the Ironbridge Gorge, which is currently part of a World Heritage Site. A negotiation existed in 1086 and also is noted as Bosle in the Domesday Publication. The community lies on the south financial institution of the Ironbridge Gorge and so shares a lot of the history of its better recognized, however much more recent neighbor, Ironbridge. In 1600, the town of Broseley consisted of just 27 residences and also belonged to the Shirlett Royal Forest. The location was recognized for mining; several of the stone utilized to develop Buildwas Abbey was extracted from Broseley as well as there is evidence that wooden wagonways existed in Broseley in 1605, providing Broseley a significant claim to the oldest railways in Britain. The wagonways were likely created for the transportation of coal as well as clay and also it was these resources that brought about the significant expansion of the town throughout the Industrial Revolution. A number of the advancements celebrated by the Ironbridge Gorge Museum Trust's collection of preserved commercial heritage sites either begun in Broseley or were connected to the community. Broseley was a centre for ironmaking, ceramic as well as clay pipes; the earliest recorded pipemaker was operating in the community in 1590. The Broseley Pipeworks is among the trust's ten museums, as is the Jackfield Tile Museum, which is located in Jackfield, just north-east of the town. John Wilkinson constructed the globe's very first iron boat whilst residing in the town, as well as the prepare for the Iron Bridge were formulated in Broseley. Abraham Darby I, that developed the procedure of smelting iron making use of coking coal, is hidden here. In the latter fifty percent of the 19th century the area experienced a decline, as sectors moved in other places. This left a legacy of uncapped mineshafts, abandoned structures, abandoned quarries, spoil stacks as well as pit piles. In the last thirty years of the 20th century Broseley experienced a contemporary revival with the advancement of Telford throughout the River Severn. New estates were developed to the eastern of Broseley centre, whilst many older properties were developed or restored, yet the community is still less populated currently than it would have been 200 years back, when population numbers were over 5,000.

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FAQs

Will I need safety barriers or balustrades for my decking?

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
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