Wooden Decking in Stoke-sub-hamdon

Discover Wooden Decking Prices in Stoke-sub-hamdon

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Wooden Decking in Stoke-sub-hamdon

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable option for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Because of the natural beauty of wood, they can be very fashionable spaces that can be used year round by installing additional heating and illumination. Wooden decking is frequently installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a seamless transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in virtually any size or shape to fit any area. Curved designs or large areas linked by pathways can create a striking effect. Wooden decking is relatively easy to install and causes minimal disruption, especially when compared to other possibilities like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is important however to be certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a selection of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Usually decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which typically consists of yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming more popular for use in wooden decking as they are stronger and require significantly less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Stoke-sub-hamdon

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2024

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Avg. price low
£1,125

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£1,500

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£1,725

£1900

£1425

£950

£475

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Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Stoke-sub-hamdon, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Stoke-sub-hamdon 2024

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

Wooden decking searches in November 2024

Wooden decking Projects in Stoke-sub-hamdon in October 2024

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Requests for quotations in Stoke-sub-hamdon in October 2024

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Stoke-sub-hamdon in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Somerset in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.

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Wooden decking searches in cities and towns near Stoke-sub-hamdon October 2024

Stoke-sub-hamdon

Stoke-sub-Hamdon (or Stoke sub Hamdon), likewise referred to as Stoke under Ham, is a big town and also civil parish in the South Somerset area of Somerset, England. It is located 5 miles (8 km) west of Yeovil, with which it is connected by the A3088 road. The parish lies near the River Parrett, and consists of the town of East Stoke. The parish council has responsibility for local issues, consisting of establishing an annual precept (neighborhood price) to cover the council's operating expense and generating annual represent public scrutiny. The parish council evaluates neighborhood planning applications and deals with the neighborhood cops, district council officers, as well as area watch teams on issues of criminal activity, security, and traffic. The parish council's function additionally consists of initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of church facilities, as well as talking to the district council on the maintenance, repair service, and enhancement of highways, drain, paths, public transportation, and street cleaning. Conservation matters (consisting of trees as well as listed structures) as well as ecological problems are additionally the duty of the council. The village falls within the Non-metropolitan area of South Somerset, which was formed on 1 April 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972, having formerly belonged to Yeovil Rural Area. The area council is accountable for local preparation and also structure control, neighborhood roads, council housing, environmental wellness, markets and fairs, decline collection and recycling, burial grounds as well as crematoria, recreation solutions, parks, as well as tourist. Somerset County Council is in charge of running the largest and also most costly neighborhood solutions such as education and learning, social solutions, libraries, highways, public transport, policing and also fire services, trading criteria, waste disposal and critical preparation. The village is in 'Hamdon' selecting ward. The ward extends south to Norton sub Hamdon The total ward population taken at the 2011 Census was 2,711.

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FAQs

How to make steps for a deck?
Unless you built a ground-level deck, you’re going to need steps to go with it. Check Building Regulations to see if you need to install handrails as well. It’s good practice to:
  • Have a step tread width of 900mm – if you don’t want them that wide, they should be no less than 760mm
  • Add a central step riser to stairs wider than 900mm to prevent them buckling
  • Add a step depth (the vertical distance between each step) of between 150 and 180mm if building your own riser, so the steps are at a comfortable depth
Getting started To build your steps for the deck, you’ll need:
  • Step treads (the actual step themselves)
  • Step risers
  • Coach screws
  • Deck screws
  • Saw
  • Drill
Make the steps for your deck
  1. Make sure the ground where you want to put your steps is level and firm. If it’s not, consider laying concrete or paving slabs to provide a secure surface for your steps to sit so they don’t sink.
  2. Grab some joist off-cuts and cut them to the same width as your step treads. Attach them to the step risers at the top and bottom using countersunk coach screws.
  3. Place the steps against the sub-frame of the deck; if you’ve put slabs down for support, make sure the steps sit in the middle of them. The longest edge of the stair riser should be on the slabs, and the short edge against the deck. Drill pilot holes through the step and sub-frame joist, then screw the step to the sub-frame with more coach screws.
  4. After drilling pilot holes, screw the treads into the risers at each end with deck screws.
  5. If you don’t want gaps between each stair, you can add joist off-cuts or deck boards. Measure the height and depth of the gap, then screw the off-cut or board into the step riser with two screws at each end.
What should I do if my deck or terrace is slippery?

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
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