Wooden Decking in Ryde and surrounding area

Wooden Decking in Ryde

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable option for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Because of the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful spaces which can be used year round by adding outside heating and light. Wooden decking is commonly installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking is available in virtually any size or shape to complement any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can produce an impressive effect. Wooden decking is fairly quick to install and causes little disruption, particularly in comparison to alternate options like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of an existing patio. It is important however to be certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a variety of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Usually decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which typically consists of annual cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods have become popular for use in wooden decking as they are stronger and require much less maintenance.

Avg. price low	Avg. price low £1,125
Avg. price	Avg. price £1,500
Avg. price high	Avg. price high £1,725

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£1,125

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,500

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,725

Wooden decking pros in Ryde

Mitchell Landscaping have been established for 10 years, offering quality advice and services in landscaping, Gardening and Fencing. We pride ourselves in offering a prompt, efficient service and are always conscious of our customers needs. I alw...

Latest review

Brigitte R., GU15

Garden | Decking in Camberley

Nice guy who I will contact again once if we decide to go ahead with the project.

I am a self motivated individual that enjoys making homes looking special, I pride myself on completing a professional finish I all areas, no job is to small, I like to work with clients to fulfill there aspirations

Latest review

Christine B., RH10

Garden | Decking in Crawley

Excellent nothing was too much trouble

Latest review

Brigitte R., GU15

Garden | Decking in Camberley

Very impressed as Oliver also brought a roofer with him to discuss the whole project of taking the roof off the garage t...

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:

Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

Make the outer frame

Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

Add your joists

Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need

Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
Timber for the frame and legs
Type 1 MOT hardcore

How to lay decking on uneven ground

Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.

Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.

	Labour cost	£1,050
	Material cost	£375
	Waste removal	£75

Wooden Decking in Ryde

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