How to build a raised deck?

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts: Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart. Make the outer frame Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area. Add your joists Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame. Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Wooden Decking in Uttoxeter and beyond

Wooden Decking in Uttoxeter

Wooden decking is an increasingly popular option for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Because of the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful spaces that can be used year round with the help of external heating and lighting. Wooden decking is typically installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking is available in any size or shape to accommodate any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can produce a striking effect. Wooden decking is relatively simple to install and causes minimal disruption, particularly in comparison to alternatives like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of an existing patio. It is essential however to make certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and capable of taking the load of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a array of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Normally decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will need maintenance, which typically involves yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming more popular for use in wooden decking because they are more robust and require far less maintenance.

Avg. price low	Avg. price low £663
Avg. price	Avg. price £1,300
Avg. price high	Avg. price high £1,863

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£663

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,300

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,863

How much decking costs depends on the type of material you go for, how big you want your decking to be and where you live in the country. But typically, the cost of decking is between £1,200 - £1,800. The most popular material for decking is pre-treated softwood, which will set you back around £1,000 for 15m². Hardwood is more expensive but is more durable, and will cost approximately £2,000 for the same amount. Homeowners are also beginning to choose composite decking, which is made from recycled plastic and wood fibres, and is low-maintenance and eco-friendly. This will cost around £1,600 for 15m², while uPVC which is also a low-maintenance option costs around £600. People tend to choose composite over uPVC because it looks more like natural timber. If you’re a competent DIYer, you might want to have a go at laying decking yourself which will set you back around £1,000 for a standard softwood timber deck. We think it’s worth paying the extra £600 for a professional to lay your decking, since they will be able to do it much more quickly. If you do want to try it yourself, we recommend leaving at least a whole weekend open to do it, but it’s likely to take you longer. Factor in the possibility of having to take time off work to complete it and it might be more cost-effective to leave it to the pros.

If your deck isn’t going to be flat to the ground, it’s a good idea to have some kind of balustrade to avoid any tripping. If the gap between the deck and the ground is less than 600mm, use a 900mm balustrade. If it’s higher than 600mm, the balustrade should be 1100mm tall.

Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:

Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.

Make the outer frame

Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.

Add your joists

Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.

Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.

Usually, slipperiness is caused by algae or dirt on top of the deck or terrace. A full cleaning treatment should restore the natural grip of the wood or stone. If slipperiness is a persistent problem, consider installing grip mats in high traffic areas of the deck.

	Labour cost	£1,050
	Material cost	£375
	Waste removal	£75

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