Wooden Decking in Canonbie

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Wooden Decking in Canonbie

Wooden decking is an increasingly fashionable choice for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Because of the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful areas which can be used year round by using external heating and light. Wooden decking is frequently fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to complement any area. Curved designs or large areas connected by pathways can create a stunning effect. Wooden decking is relatively easy to install and causes little disruption, particularly when compared to other possibilities like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is necessary however to be certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the load of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a selection of types of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Generally decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will demand maintenance, which commonly consists of yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming more popular for use in wooden decking as they are more robust and require far less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Canonbie

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£613
Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,025
Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,363

£1500

£1125

£750

£375

£0

Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Canonbie, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Canonbie 2025

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

Wooden decking searches in April 2025

Wooden decking Projects in Canonbie in March 2025

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Canonbie in March 2025. 0% change from February 2025.

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Dumfriesshire in March 2025. 0% change from February 2025.

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Canonbie

Canonbie (population 390) is a little village in Dumfriesshire within the local authority location of Dumfries as well as Galloway in Scotland, six miles south of Langholm and two miles north of the Anglo-Scottish border. It is on the A7 road from Carlisle to Edinburgh, as well as the River Esk flows with it. There are frequent referrals in older files to it as Canobie. Canonbie was immortalised in a poem by Sir Walter Scott entitled Marmion. A renowned section covers the exploits of young Lochinvar. Having swiped the hand of the new bride of Netherby Hall, about 3 miles south of Canonbie, the rushing knight is chased with Canonbie, yet makes good his escape.

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FAQs

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How to lay decking?
Laying simple, ground-level decking may sound intimidating, but it doesn’t have to be. With careful planning and preparation, you can lay decking that you’ll be proud to show off to neighbours, family and friends. Here are a few tips to get you started. Plan carefully Draw out a plan, to scale, on paper. This will help you to know how many boards you’ll need and ensure that you don’t end up having to cut anything to fit. Prepare the area Measure out the site according to your plan and hammer a peg into each corner, then tie string around each peg to help you see what you’re working with. If you’re not laying on existing slabs, dig into the ground, lifting out turf if it’s there, and check that the site is level. Then add concrete slabs for more stability or lay weed-control fabric over the ground and cover with gravel to further prevent weed growth. Build your sub-frame Since a lot of people ask this, we’ve got a more detailed guide in the FAQ below. Lay your deck boards
  1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
  2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
  3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
  4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.
Although this is a simplified set of instructions, it’s enough for you to see whether you want to attempt to lay decking yourself – and if you don’t, you can get in touch with professionals who will be happy to give you a quote.

How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
How to build a deck frame?
Building a simple deck frame, or decking subframe, that you’re laying on level ground is easy if you take time to prepare and get all the things you need. We’ll go through the steps on how to build a deck frame here. Tools and equipment To get building your deck frame, you’ll need:
  • Decking joists
  • Coach screws
  • Coach bolts
  • Combi drill
  • Socket set
  • A saw suitable for your project and the thickness of the timber
  • Pencil
  • Decking preservative
  • Sandpaper or sander
Build your subframe
  1. Measure your deck frame and cut to size if necessary.
  2. Make 2 pencil marks on each end of the frame’s 2 outer joists to mark where the coach screws will go. They need to align with the centre of the adjoining outer joist. Then, use a flat wood drill bit to drill recesses into each mark. Make them the same depth of the screws that your using’s head and wide enough for a ratchet or socket to tighten them.
  3. Using a thinner drill bit, line up the outer joists and drill a pilot hole through the middle of the recess. These pilot holes act as a guide for the screws and stops them from splitting the wood.
  4. Fit the coach screws with either a drill driver or socket and ratchet.
  5. Repeat the process for the inner joists once you’ve assembled the outer frame.
IMPORTANT: While you’re building your deck frame and the decking itself, remember to cover all pilot holes and ends of timber in decking preservative to ensure that your decking remains structurally sound for as long as possible. Though relatively simple, building a deck frame and the decking will take some time. It would be much quicker and easier to get a professional in to do it, who could represent more value for money.
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Canonbie Wooden decking installers are rated 4.8 out of 5 based on 2 reviews of 19 pros.
The LeadsDoWork rating and review is an overall rating based on verified reviews and feedback from the customers with Wooden decking projects that have been connected with Wooden decking pros to help them. All Wooden decking contractors All Canonbie Wooden decking contractors

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