Wooden Decking in Caledon
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Wooden Decking in Caledon
Wooden decking is an increasingly prevalent choice for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Because of the natural beauty of wood, they can be very fashionable areas which you can use year round with the addition of additional heating and light. Wooden decking is commonly installed in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking can come in any size or shape to accommodate any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can create a striking effect. Wooden decking is reasonably simple to install and causes minimal disruption, especially in comparison to other possibilities like patio or paving. It can even be installed over the top of an existing patio. It is crucial however to make certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the load of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a variety of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Generally decking is constructed from hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will need maintenance, which usually requires yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming more popular for use in wooden decking as they are more robust and require significantly less maintenance.
Average Wooden decking cost in Caledon
The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375
Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025
Avg. price low | Avg. price low |
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£1900
£1425
£950
£475
£0
Wooden decking installation cost in Caledon 2025
Labour cost | £1,050 | |
Material cost | £375 | |
Waste removal | £75 |
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FAQs
- If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
- Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
- Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
- Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
- Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
- Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
- Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
- Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
- Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
- Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
- Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
- Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
- Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
- Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
- Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
- Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
- Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
- Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
- Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
- Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
- Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
- Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
- Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Yes, although you should make sure that the terrace or decking is able to support the weight of a hot tub. Usually, you will need to have a structural survey carried out on the area. Seek the advise of a hot tub retailer or installer about the logistics of installing one at your property.
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