Wooden Decking in Ballachulish

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Wooden Decking in Ballachulish

Wooden decking is an increasingly popular option for creating outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very fashionable spaces which you can use year round with the addition of external heating and light. Wooden decking is typically fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a seamless transition between inside and outside spaces. Wooden decking is available in any size or shape to fit any area. Curved designs or large areas linked by pathways can create an impressive effect. Wooden decking is relatively quick to install and causes little disruption, particularly in comparison to alternate options like patio or paving. It can even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is vital however to make certain that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the weight of any furniture or plants that you want to use on the decking. There is a variety of types of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Generally decking is made of hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability requirements. As hardwood decking will demand maintenance, which usually will involve yearly cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming popular for use in wooden decking because they are more robust and require significantly less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Ballachulish

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2024

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Avg. price low
£1,125
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£1,500
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£1,725

£1900

£1425

£950

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Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Ballachulish, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Ballachulish 2024

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

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Ballachulish

The town of Ballachulish in Lochaber, Highland, Scotland, is centred on former slate quarries. The name Ballachulish (Ballecheles, 1522-- Straits town,) was more appropriately applied to the area now called North Ballachulish, to the north of Loch Leven, however was usurped for the quarry villages at East Laroch and West Laroch, either side of the River Laroch, which were really within Glencoe and South Ballachulish respectively. The principal sector is currently tourist, although many visitors pass swiftly by the village itself. The name Ballachulish (from Scottish Gaelic, Baile a' Chaolais) indicates "the Town by the Narrows". The narrows in question is Caolas Mhic Phàdraig - Peter or Patrick's boy's narrows, at the mouth of Loch Leven. As there was no road to the head of Loch Leven till 1927, the Ballachulish Ferry, established in 1733, as well as those at Invercoe/Callert as well as Caolas na Disadvantage were crucial. The Ballachulish ferry closed in December 1975 when the Ballachulish Bridge finally opened up. The Ballachulish Hotel as well as Ballachulish House (till lately a lodge hotel) lie near the narrows at (south) Ballachulish Ferry as opposed to in the "contemporary" town some 3 miles (5 kilometres) eastern. Ballachulish House was reputed to be haunted, and the drive bring about it was ridden by a brainless horseman. The district of Glenachulish lies in Gleann a' Chaolais, the glen that diminishes to the narrows. This is the topic of the Gaelic tune, Gleann Bhaile Chaoil composed by John Cameron (1865-- 1951) as well as known locally both as the Paisley Poet and by his regional nickname Iain Cealaidh. He is usually perplexed with another local poet also called John Cameron, recognized in your area as Iain Rob (1822-- 1898). Gleann a' Chaolais is ringed by Beinn a' Bheithir, a massif which includes 2 munros - Sgorr Dhearg and also Sgorr Dhonuill. In recent times a number of brand-new houses have actually been developed in your area together with vacation chalets as well as an art gallery. Likewise the fields of Gleann a' Chaolais have been developed into the 9-hole Dragon's Tooth golf course. Neglecting the narrows is the monolith to James of the Glen, "held on this place for a criminal offense of which he was not guilty". Robert Louis Stevenson based his novel Kidnapped around the tale of the Appin Murder. Whoever did kill The Red Fox (Campbell of Glenure) is still not known.

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FAQs

How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How much maintenance will a wooden deck need?

Properly installed wooden decking will not need a lot of maintenance. Most manufacturers recommend regularly brushing leaves and dirt off the deck, and a yearly cleaning and staining procedure. This will keep the wood in the best condition. Fluids and treatments are readily available from all DIY shops and stores.

How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
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Ballachulish Wooden decking installers are rated 4.4 out of 5 based on 3 reviews of 38 pros.
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