Wooden Decking in Callander

Compare Wooden Decking Prices in Callander

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Wooden Decking in Callander

Wooden decking is an increasingly popular option for providing outdoor seating areas in gardens. Due to the natural beauty of wood, they can be very beautiful areas which you can use year round with the help of external heating and lighting. Wooden decking is frequently fitted in locations in front of patio or French doors where they can create a smooth transition between interior and exterior spaces. Wooden decking can come in virtually any size or shape to fit any area. Curved designs or large areas joined by pathways can create an attractive effect. Wooden decking is relatively simple to install and causes minimal disruption, especially when compared to alternate options like patio or paving. It could even be installed over the top of a pre-existing patio. It is critical however to make sure that your wooden decking is structurally sound and able to take the weight of any furniture or plants that you would like to use on the decking. There is a selection of varieties of wood that can be used in wooden decking. Usually decking is made of hardwood, but there are softwoods available that fulfil the durability specifications. As hardwood decking will require maintenance, which usually requires annual cleaning and staining for weather proofing, composite woods are becoming popular for use in wooden decking as they are stronger and require far less maintenance.

Average Wooden decking cost in Callander

The typical cost of Wooden decking is £1500. Costs can change based upon the materials and the firm hired. The upper price range can be as high as £1725. The material costs are commonly approximately £375

Average price per Wooden decking job in 2025

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£613

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,025

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,363

£1500

£1125

£750

£375

£0

Prices based on actual Wooden decking costs for Callander, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Wooden decking installation cost in Callander 2025

Labour cost £1,050
Material cost £375
Waste removal £75
Time frame: 1-4 days

Wooden decking searches in January 2025

Wooden decking Projects in Callander in December 2024

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Requests for quotations in Callander in December 2024

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Callander in December 2024. 0% change from November 2024.

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Requests for Wooden decking quotations in Perthshire in December 2024. 0% change from November 2024.

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Wooden decking searches in cities and towns near Callander December 2024

Callander

Callander is a small town in the council area of Stirling, Scotland, positioned on the River Teith. The community is located in the historical area of Perthshire and is a preferred tourist stop to and also from the Highlands. The town functions as the eastern portal to the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, the first National Park in Scotland, as well as is commonly described as the "Portal to the Highlands". Dominating the community to the north are the Callander Crags, a noticeable part of the Highland Boundary Fault, rising to 343 metres (1,125 ft) at the . Ben Ledi (879 metres, 2,884 feet) exists north-west of Callander. Popular neighborhood strolls include Bracklinn Falls, The Meadows, Callander Crags as well as the Wood Walks. The Rob Roy Method passes through Callander. The community remains on the Trossachs Predator Trail. The River Teith is developed from the assemblage of two smaller sized rivers, the Garbh Uisge (River Leny) and Eas Gobhain regarding 1/3 mile (500 m) west of the bridge at Callander. A 19th century Gothic church stands in the community square, called after Saint Kessog, an Irish missionary who is stated to have actually preached in the location in the sixth-century. The church closed in 1985 as well as in between 1990 and 2006 the building, after going through substantial indoor changes, was home to a visitor centre as well as audio-visual destination informing the tale of neighborhood hooligan, Rob Roy MacGregor. The church building was inhabited by The Clanranald Trust for Scotland in between 2015 and also 2018, however it currently lies empty. Established in 1892, McLaren High School informs students aged 11 to 18 from a wide catchment area expanding as for Killin, Tyndrum and Inversnaid. Callander attained prominence throughout the 1960s as the fictional setup "Tannochbrae" in the BBC tv series Dr. Finlay's Casebook. In 2018 Callander was named Scotland's First Social Enterprise Place, [9] because of the amount of social venture task within the community. This includes Callander Neighborhood Hydro Ltd., an area owned renewable resource task which disperses funds to a selection of neighborhood projects.

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Similar Customer Enquiries for Wooden decking in Callander

30 Apr

Garden | Decking

Callander - FK17

Enquiry from: Brian D

Start Date: Immediate

we are would like to convert a window to a patio door at the side of our property with the idea of this leading to a raised deck only access would be via the house. the height from the floor to the ga...

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21 Mar

Garden | Decking

Stirling - FK9

Enquiry from: Jochen C

Start Date: Immediate

to replace existing timber decking with new structure; pretty much like for like are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do you require: s...

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08 Jul

Garden | Decking

Stirling - FK8

Enquiry from: Lynne C

Start Date: Immediate

we need repairs to our deck. it is in a bad state,many thanks,lynne are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other what level of service do you require: supply and deck please...

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11 May

Garden | Decking

Doune - FK16

Enquiry from: David L

Start Date: Immediate

extend existing rear door decking by adding extension of approx 5 ft x 14 ft over boggy grass are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached what level of service do y...

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26 Mar

Garden | Decking

Stirling - FK8

Enquiry from: Jonathan F

Start Date: Immediate

we require a sloped area of our garden to be converted to a terrace with decking. a frame will be required to level everything a staircase to be installed to reach the lower part of the garden. are yo...

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FAQs

How to fit composite decking?
Fitting composite decking is similar to installing timber decking, but there are some small differences in terms of the gaps you need to leave between boards and the screws you use. We’ll go through a quick guide to show you the process involved in fitting composite decking so you can decide whether it’s something you want to do yourself. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to our instructions in the previous FAQs – or you can use an existing patio or concrete base if you have one. Measure and mark out the area using chalk (if using an existing base). Assemble the decking frame Build the outer frame as we show in our FAQs above; if the area you have planned is longer than your joists, you’ll need to join them together. When you’ve built the frame and it’s secure, ensure that it’s at the right level for water runoff and add risers, slabs or treated off-cuts of timber at 500mm intervals if you need to. Add joists The spacing of your joists will depend on the type of design you have chosen for your composite decking. If you’re laying arched boards horizontally, you’ll need to space the joists 300mm apart. Lay your composite decking boards
  1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
  2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
  3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
  4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
  5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.
Add a fascia board If you’re adding a fascia, measure in 40mm from each end and add two guide marks: one at 40mm from the top and the other at 40mm from the bottom. Connect the marks, then mark at 300mm intervals down the board. Drill pilot holes, then put the fascia board into position. You need to make sure that there’s a 40mm ventilation gap between the bottom of the fascia and the ground. Ask someone to hold the board level until you’ve finished securing it with composite decking screws; you can get colour-matched ones so they don’t look unsightly at the end of your decking. Not so sure you want to carry out such a big project yourself? Get quotes from decking pros who will be able to fit composite decking much more quickly and easily.
How to lay decking on uneven ground?
There are two ways to lay decking on uneven ground. We’ve explained how to build a raised deck in our FAQ ‘How to build a raised deck’ above, and that’s great for uneven ground or sloped gardens. But there’s another way that you can lay decking on uneven ground if you don’t want a raised deck: you can create a level supporting base. We’ll go through the basics here. Materials you’ll need
  • Paving slabs – old or cheap ones are fine
  • Timber for the frame and legs
  • Type 1 MOT hardcore
How to lay decking on uneven ground
  1. Mark out the area as we explain in ‘How to lay decking’. Then, dig to 200mm below where you want to surface of the decking to be.
  2. Add a 50mm layer of hardcore and make sure it’s compact.
  3. Build the decking sub-frame as we describe in ‘How to build a deck frame’.
  4. Lay out paving slabs along the edges and in the centre of the area. This will help to spread the weight of the decking.
  5. Set the decking frame on the slabs, checking for high or low points and adding off-cuts of timber where needed. Don’t forget to sand and seal these off-cuts with decking preservative.
  6. Add your joists and then the deck boards, leaving the recommended gaps of expansion of between 5-8mm.
Building your decking on top of paving slabs is a good way to get it level, but you still may not be able to get as good a finish as if a professional did it. If you’re in any doubt, get in contact with some decking specialists and see what they would recommend.
How to build a raised deck?
Building a raised deck will take some time and is trickier than laying standard decking at ground level, but if you want to build decking on a slope or uneven ground it’s the best way to do it. If you do your research and follow instructions, you and a friend or family member can build a raised deck over a few days. Here’s a simplified guide of the steps you’ll need to take. Plan carefully It’s best to plan your raised deck by drawing it to scale on paper before you go and get supplies. This will help avoid wastage and making more cuts to timber than necessary. Prepare the area Prepare the area according to the instructions we give in the FAQ ‘How to lay decking’. However, because you’re building a raised deck, you’ll need to add posts:
  1. Place a post in the corner of the frame you created with the pegs and string. Measure and mark out 100mm from each side.
  2. Dig out this soil to a depth of 700mm (watch out for cables or pipes). You should have a 300 x 300mm hole. Repeat for the other 3 corners.
  3. Using a brick bolster, split a concrete block in two. Put a section of the block in each hole.
  4. Get a length of post longer than you need and place one in each hole. You can cut it down later.
  5. Create props on each post to hold them in place until you’re ready to add a cement mix. Check that they’re level. When you’re happy that they are, secure them in place with a concrete mix, making sure you create a slope in the concrete so that rainwater runs away from each post. When the concrete is set, remove the props.
  6. Create a string line around each corner post and find the centre point between each. Place a timber batten at each point, ensuring that they’re not spaced any more than 1500mm apart.
Make the outer frame
  1. Working from the corner where the deck will be at its highest above ground level, measure and mark on the post where the highest part of the frame will be.
  2. Measure from the far side of one post to the opposite and cut sections of joist to size. Line up a piece of joist with the mark you made and temporarily secure it. Factor in a 2mm fall for every metre of decking so rainwater can run off.
  3. Secure the frame to the other corner post, ensuring it’s at the right level. Do this for every side of the outer frame.
  4. Using 100mm coach screws with washers hanging on the end, secure each end of the four sections of frame.
  5. Mark out where the centre of the support posts will be and secure all of these posts to the frame, except the centre post.
  6. Add your central support joists. These should run in the same direction as the deck boards will run. You’ll need to measure from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside of the frame on the opposite side. Attach the joist in the same way as you did for the other posts. Repeat so the centre post is in between two sections of frame and secure the posts with concrete.
  7. Trim down all the posts to the correct height using a saw.
  8. Add your weed-control fabric and weigh down with gravel across the entire area.
Add your joists
  1. Measure 400mm from the centre of the outer frame and mark a line. This will be where the first joist is positioned. Repeat at 400mm intervals down the length of the frame – if the last one will be more than 400mm, add another joist to create enough support.
  2. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist.
  3. Place the joist in position so the centre lines up with the 400mm spacer mark.
  4. Secure using external grade screws once you’re happy that the joist is flush with the frame.
Lay your decking boards Refer to our FAQ on how to lay decking to see how you should attach your decking boards. Remember: Always treat cut ends and pilot holes with decking preservative to keep your decking in good condition for as long as possible. Building a raised deck isn’t a straightforward task. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, get a range of quotes to help you get the best price and a high quality finish.
How much decking do I need?
How much decking you need will – of course – depend on how big you plan your deck to be. There is an equation to help you work out how many deck boards you need. It’s a little complicated until you’ve been shown how it works, but once you know how to do it it’s easy to work out how much decking you need for any project. The equation takes into account the recommended 10% wastage and includes the expansion gaps that are required, which is between 5-8mm along the length of the deck boards (EGL, or expansion gap length) and 3mm along the ends of the deck boards (EGW, or expansion gap width) for timber. It also assumes you’re laying your decking horizontally, as if you’re looking for a diagonal or chevron design you’ll need more deck boards. Let’s go through an example, assuming you have a 10m x 6m area that you want to cover with decking made from timber boards that are 2.4m long and 144mm wide. We’ll use the EGL of 5mm and EGW of 3mm.
  1. Calculate the surface area for your decking Multiply the length (L) of your decking area by the width (W): L x W = Decking Surface Area (DSA) in m2 10 x 6 = 60m2
  2. Work out the coverage of your deck boards Add your deck board width (DBW) to the expansion gap length (EGL), then add the deck board length (DBL) to the expansion gap width (EGW). Then multiply these numbers. (DBW + EGL) x (DBL + EGW) = Single Board Coverage (SBC) 0.144m + 0.005m = 0.149m 2.4m + 0.003m = 2.403m 0.149 x 2.403 = 0.358m2
  3. Calculate the number of deck boards you need Multiply the SBC by 1.1 to allow for 10% wastage. Then, divide the DSA by the SBC. DSA / SCB x 1.1 = Total number of boards required 60m2 / 0.358m2 x 1.1 = 184.36 boards – so round up to 185 so you’re not left short.
If that all seems a bit complicated for you, let a professional do the maths – they will be able to give you an idea of how much decking you’ll need in no time.
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