Velux Windows in Ilkley

It’s relatively simple to remove a Velux window, whether it’s Velux-branded or is another brand of roof window. Here is a breakdown of the steps you’ll need to take to remove a roof window:

1. Remove the sash (opening part) from the roof window frame. Usually there are screws in the hinges to loosen or a button to press and lift out.
2. Next, remove the tiles or slates from around the window frame along with the flashing.
3. Unscrew all the brackets around the window frame and lift out the frame.

It’s that simple! You can do all of this from inside your home – there's no need to climb on the roof. Removing the glass pane from a Velux window, for example if it has blown, is a more difficult job and should be left to a professional. It involves removing the sash from the roof window frame and then removing the surrounding parts of the sash to lift out the sealed unit. They will then place the new glazed unit into the sash frame before securing all the parts back onto the sash and fitting it back into the roof window frame.

Fitting a Velux window into a slate roof is very similar to the way you’d install it in other roof types. All roof windows, whether a Velux-branded one or not, will come with detailed instructions for you to follow if you want to have a go at fitting it yourself. But here are some brief instructions to give you an idea of what’s involved in installing a Velux window into a slate roof:

1. After you’ve removed the Velux window from its packaging, remove the sash (the part that opens) from the frame, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
2. Next, you need to prepare the opening for the window. You can often cut through the felt, remove one of the battens from under a slate, then slide all the slate tiles into the roof space. You should then make the cut 40-60mm wider than the window, cutting away roof timbers then replacing them with more around the opening to strengthen it.
3. The roof window’s bottom brackets need to be installed on one of the existing battens for the slate roof. One of the slate courses should line up 105mm below the top edge of the batten you use.
4. Then, measure from the top edge of the batten upwards to the height of the window plus 45mm. This is where the top installation batten should be installed, with an overhang of 100mm on each side.
5. Remove the course of slates below the window, trim any excess felt and fold it over the surrounding timber. This helps with waterproofing.
6. Add the insulation collar according to the Velux window manufacturer’s instructions.
7. Place the frame in the opening, adding the brackets according to the instructions. You’ll find that lots of roof windows have pre-drilled holes to make it easy for you.
8. Replace the sash and line up the hinges. Take a look at the opening at the bottom between the sash and the frame – it should be even along the entire width. Remove the sash again to fix the upper brackets according to instructions.
9. Add the underfelt collar for your roof window as instructed by the manufacturer, then replace any slates at the bottom. You might need to cut them to size.
10. Next, add the flashing according to the instructions, along with any parts that are not yet attached, including the hood section and top flashing piece.
11. Replace all the slates around the window, allowing 60-100mm of space between the course of slates above the window and the top of the window to allow for rainwater drainage. Then replace the sash into the frame again.
12. Add the vapour barrier on the inside of the window using the screws provided, then tape it to the existing vapour barrier to prevent moisture from reaching your roof structure.

And that’s it! If you think that sounds a bit complicated, ask a roofer or window installer to fit your roof window into a slate roof for you. You’ll get a better finish and you can be sure that you won’t get any leaks from a botched installation.

Velux installers offer the Velux Active home kit. This provides an automated system to enhance your indoor living. With its sensor-based ventilation apparatus, the Velux active home kit’s smart sensors repeatedly monitor your home’s temperature, humidity and CO2 levels for its optimum healthy living standards.

Sensor-based ventilation
Velux Active tracks temperature, humidity and CO2-levels, and ventilates to keep your indoor climate nice and healthy.

Automatic heat protection
Velux Active automatically protects your home from excessive heat by closing your Velux Integra blinds, awnings and shutters on hot days.

Set personal preferences
Want to swap your alarm clock for a sunrise or air out while you’re at work? Customise your indoor climate with Velux Active.

Voice-control and smart speaker integration come standard with VELUX ACTIVE with NETATMO, enabling you to draw the shades or open the windows just by asking.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.