Internal or partition walls can be relocated or knocked through in your home, which can alter the room layout and establish a more substantial open plan room design for a generous living space or a kitchen diner. When moving or knocking through interior walls, it is important to understand both the kind of internal wall that it is, and whether it's a load bearing wall. Internal walls may be brick or block partitions, timber stud partitions, or even prefabricated wall panels. There are no shortcuts when it comes to ascertaining whether a wall is load bearing or not, it is advisable to engage the services of a structural engineer if you are unsure or are not able to view original plans for your premises. Load bearing walls can be moved, but this is usually more expensive and involves installing additional load bearing methods, such as steel lintels. Moving or knocking through internal walls will generally consist of demolition of the pre-existing wall, replacing or restoring the new walls, replastering and moving electrics. It could additionally necessitate adjustments to the floor, as in some cases the floors between rooms will not be totally level, and knocking through internal walls can expose this. Generally moving interior walls won't require planning permission, but you will need to adhere to building regulations for insulation and sound proofing. Consulting a structural engineer will ensure that any internal wall changes that you plan on doing will keep your home structurally sound.
The average cost of Plasterboard dry lining is £850. Costs vary based upon the materials and the tradesman hired. The upper price range can be as high as £977.5. The material costs are in most cases around £212.5
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| Labour cost | £595 | |
| Material cost | £213 | |
| Waste removal | £43 |
Requests for quotations in Hillingdon in October 2024
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in Hillingdon in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in London County in October 2024. 0% change from September 2024.
The London Borough of Hillingdon is the westernmost borough in Greater London. It was formed in 1965 from the districts of Hayes and Harlington, Ruislip-Northwood, Uxbridge, and Yiewsley and West Drayton inside the historic county of Middlesex. The borough covers an overall area of 44.67 square miles. This makes it the second biggest of the 32 London boroughs by area.
Hillingdon Council governs the borough, having its headquarters inside the Civic Centre in Uxbridge. The south of the borough's former strong connection with industry has diminished since the 1980s to be replaced by a predominantly residential suburban population; the north has remained a consistently residential suburban area.
The borough's residential places expanded with the extension of the Metropolitan Railway from Harrow on the Hill to Uxbridge during the early twentieth century plus the gradual establishment of stops along the line, becoming called 'Metro-land'.
The population increased from 2001 to 2011 by 11.5 per cent, which is 4.4 per cent higher than the England and Wales mean of 7.1 per cent, making the borough a part of the fastest population-growth location. In this time, the number of households also increased by 3.3 per cent, with an average of 2.7 people per household.
The borough maintains over 200 green spaces, totalling about 1800 acres. As lots of the area is inside the Metropolitan Green Belt it was, in 2008, on the list of least densely populated of all of the London boroughs; open spaces vary in size from the Colne Valley Regional Park to smaller sized gardens such as Lake Farm Country Park. For all of your residence upgrades, make sure that you employ trustworthy pros in Hillingdon to ensure that you get the top quality.
Greenford - UB6
Enquiry from: Haryton F
Start Date: Immediate
Hi To build stud partition wall, plasterboard, wal paper or skim and paint and to include one door with frame, architrave and door lock handle. Room width= 3.8m. Room height= 2.4m
Hayes - UB4
Enquiry from: Waleed C
Start Date: Immediate
Stud wall partition with door cutout
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How To Put Up Plasterboard
Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.
Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.
• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.
• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.
How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall
Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!
lAttach Furring Strips
• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.
• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer
• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.
• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.
• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.
lApply Plasterboard
• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.
• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.
• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.
• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.
• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.
• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.
• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.
Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.
How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard
If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!
• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.
• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard
• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.
• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.
• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.
• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
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