Question 1

How much do copper gutters cost?

Accepted Answer

Copper gutters are expensive – there's no doubt about it. But the look it can give a property might be just what you’re after. uPVC guttering doesn’t suit every home, and while it’s the cheapest option, some properties might not even be able to have it – for example, if you live in a conservation area or listed building. So if you’re going to have them installed, how much do copper gutters cost? Prices start at £18 per linear metre for half-round copper guttering. If you add all the bits you’ll need to go with them, like brackets and clips, you could be looking at around £40 per metre. That’s about double the cost of a uPVC or aluminium guttering system and about the same as cast iron guttering. Add in the installation costs and the average cost of a copper guttering system is £2,390. But copper gutters have a look that can’t be replicated by any other material, so if your home will suit them it might be worth the investment. It might be tempting to try to install copper guttering yourself, especially if you’re used to doing DIY. But copper guttering can be quite heavy to handle and is more fragile than uPVC, so it’s best leaving it to the professionals. On two-storey homes, roofline specialists would probably use scaffold towers to help them keep stable while they install the guttering, and will work in pairs. Since they carry out copper gutter installations all the time, they’ll be used to handling it and ensuring that they don’t scratch or damage this expensive product. So while it might seem cheaper to do it yourself, it won’t if you damage your copper gutters and have to fork out for new ones.

Question 2

How do you replace gutters?

Accepted Answer

The best way to replace gutters is to ask a reputable installer to do it for you. They have all the right safety equipment and knowledge to do it. But if you’re a competent DIYer, you could have a go at replacing the gutters yourself. If you do, you could save yourself an average of £359 on labour costs. The biggest risk from replacing guttering yourself is the height. Even if you’re on a secure ladder, if you’re not used to working at height you could seriously hurt yourself. If your home is a bungalow, the risk is lower, but anything two storeys and above carries significant risk. If you’re still happy to go ahead, there are a few things you’ll need to fit gutters yourself: A sturdy ladder Gloves and safety goggles A hammer and nails to secure your fascia so it doesn’t fall down mid-replacement A hacksaw – this will cut through uPVC guttering – just make sure you leave a margin of error with every cut you make Cable ties or rope to secure the existing gutters while you dismantle them, so they don’t fall off All the right fixings and brackets to secure the guttering An electric drill and/or screwdrivers Once you’ve removed the old guttering, you can get started with the new ones. Follow these steps: Add a gutter bracket to the top of the fascia board at the opposite end to the stop-end outlet, if you have one. Then tie a piece of string around the base of the bracket. You’ll need to place the gutter outlet accurately over the drain. Hold a plumb line against the fascia directly over the drain, and mark that position with a pencil. Following the manufacturer’s advice on the number of screws to use, fit the gutter outlet no more than 50mm below the level of the roof tiles. Stretch the piece of string you tied on the bracket along the fascia board, and tie it to the outlet. Make sure you check with a spirit level that the string slopes towards the outlet. Mark the positions of the other brackets. They should be no more than 800mm apart, or 600mm if your roof is very steep. They also shouldn’t be any more than 150mm from a joint or fitting. Then fit the rest of the brackets. Fit a stop-end to the first length of gutter and clip it into position on the brackets. At the other end, fit a union piece and screw it into the fascia. Then fit the next length of gutter into it, and the next until you’re finished. Cut the last one to fit using your hacksaw before attaching a stop-end. Then make sure all the joints line up with the insertion depth marks on the fittings. Then you’re done!

Question 3

How to install guttering and downpipes?

Accepted Answer

If you’re a competent DIYer, it’s not too difficult to install guttering and downpipes if you’ve got uPVC ones. uPVC is a type of plastic and therefore is relatively light, but if you’ve got cast iron or copper guttering you might find it more difficult to replace and install. When you install new guttering and downpipes, you’ll need to remove your old ones. It’s a good idea to tie some rope or cable ties around the existing guttering while you dismantle them so they don’t fall down. We’ve explained how to replace guttering in a previous FAQ, so here we’ll focus on the downpipes. It’s simple if you have the right tools, including a sturdy ladder, a drill and screwdriver and all the fixings and brackets you’ll need. Hang a plumb bob from the outlet to the drain to use as a guide while you draw several marks on the wall with a pencil to show you where the downpipe will run. Join the marks up with a straight edge, creating a line to show where the centre of the downpipe will be. Position a downpipe clip at the top of wall, in the centre of the pencil line. Mark the position of its fixing holes on the wall. If you need an offset bend, put a downpipe clip directly below the bend. Repeat the process down the wall. Make sure there is no more than 1.8 metres between pipe clips. Refer to the guttering manufacturer’s instructions to see which drill bit is required. Use a drill to drill the fixing holes and insert wall plugs. Fit the first piece of downpipe starting from the outlet and moving towards the drain. If you need to add more downpipe, join the two pieces with a pipe socket and clip. Leave a 10mm gap between the end of the pipe and the bottom of the pipe socket, because it will probably expand. Then attach a pipe clip over the joint. Continue attaching pipe clips down the length of the downpipe. If you need to, fit a downpipe show to direct the water into the drain. Attach a downpipe clip directly below the socket of the shoe. Although it seems easy, it’s always best to leave guttering works to the professionals. They’ve got experience with fitting neat and tidy guttering and downpipes, and they are used to working at height.

Question 4

How much do gutters cost?

Accepted Answer

How much gutters costs depends on the type of home you live in, what material you want for your guttering and whether your roofline has easy access. As a rough guide, you should expect to pay somewhere between £450-£800 for the supply and installation of new gutters. If you live in an average home and access is easy, a pair of tradespeople should be able to install your new guttering in a day. It’s only if they have to put up scaffolding to make an access tower that work may span longer than a day – and this will increase the price. The type of material you choose for your guttering will also affect the cost. Plastic, or uPVC, is the cheapest option for your gutters and it is relatively hardwearing. For an average 3-bed semi-detached house, uPVC guttering will cost around £70 without installation costs. However, go for an option like aluminium for your gutters and they’ll set you back around £750. Other options include cast iron, popular on period homes, which may cost around £620 for the same size house, or copper which would be around £850. Most people choose uPVC for their gutters because they’re the cost-effective option. They don’t have to be white – like uPVC windows, you can get guttering in a range of colours to suit your home. When people choose other guttering materials, it’s usually due to their home being in a conservation area or having a period look. People also choose other materials because they’re easier to recycle.

Avg. price low	Avg. price low £750
Avg. price	Avg. price £1,000
Avg. price high	Avg. price high £1,150

	Labour cost	£700
	Material cost	£250
	Waste removal	£50

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