Garden Sheds in Barton-upon-humber

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Garden Sheds in Barton-upon-humber

Garden sheds are a critical factor of any useful garden space. They can offer storage for cumbersome garden tools, as well as for other tools. A large garden shed could even provide enough space for plant potting or a general workshop. Alternatively, a sizeable shed could be utilised as an indoor seating area. Garden sheds are available in a huge selection of sizes and can be specified to your particular needs, providing you complete control over the number and position of windows, type, size and location of door, and style of roof. Garden sheds normally come in one of three materials. Wooden sheds are the classic style and can be integrated well into any garden creating a natural look, especially if the wood used for the shed is matched to surrounding fences. Wooden sheds remain very popular, although they will need maintenance by retreating or staining the wood to maintain the life of the shed. Garden sheds are also made of metal, which is very strong and therefore ideal for storage of tools and other equipment. Metal sheds additionally require almost no maintenance. The final material for garden sheds is plastic, which in modern examples is far more resilient than might be expected. When considering a garden shed, it's critical to make sure that you choose one that will fit in your garden space. Garden sheds should be placed on a level area, and will need a base to be built as a foundation. This base could be produced from either concrete, paving, gravel or a floating timber base, but will need to be the right size for your shed and capable of supporting the weight of your shed when loaded.

Average Garden shed cost in Barton-upon-humber

The typical cost of Garden shed is £600. Costs vary based on the materials and the organisation selected. The upper price range can be as high as £690. The material costs are typically around £150

Average price per Garden shed job in 2025

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£450
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£600
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Prices based on actual Garden shed costs for Barton-upon-humber, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Garden shed installation cost in Barton-upon-humber 2025

Labour cost £420
Material cost £150
Waste removal £30
Time frame: 1-2 days

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Garden shed Projects in Barton-upon-humber in December 2024

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Barton-upon-humber

Barton-upon-Humber or Barton is a town and civil parish in North Lincolnshire, England. As per the 2011 Census, the town has a permanent population of about 11066 inhabitants. It is positioned on the south bank of the Humber Estuary at the southern end of the Humber Bridge. It's 46 miles (74 km) east of Leeds, 6 miles (10 km) south-west of Hull and 31 miles (50 kilometres) north-east of the county town of Lincoln. Other nearby towns include Scunthorpe towards the south-west and Grimsby to the south-east. The Barton Cleethorpes Branch Line via Grimsby concludes at Barton-on-Humber train station. The A15 passes to the west of the town cutting through Beacon Hill, and includes a junction with the A1077 Ferriby Road to South Ferriby. The B1218 passes north-south through the town, and leads to Barton Waterside. An Anglo-Saxon inhumation cemetery at Castledyke South, in use from the late fifth or early 6th century till the late 7th century, was investigated and partially excavated in 1975. The skeletal remains of 227 people were identified, including one person who had undergone, and survived, trepanning. The church was reopened in May 2007 as a resource for medical study into the development of diseases, and ossuary, containing the bones and skeletons of some 2750 people whose remains had been removed between 1978 and 1984 from the 1000-year-old burial site, after the Church of England declared the church redundant in 1972. The significance of the human remains lies in their representing the pathology of an isolated group over the time period around 950 and 1850. An excavation report on one of England's most extensively investigated parish churches, including a volume on the human remains, was published in 2007. For all your property improvements, make sure that you utilise trustworthy specialists in Barton-upon-Humber to make sure that you get the best quality service.

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FAQs

How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
Do I need planning permission for a shed?
Generally, you don’t need planning permission for a shed if you live in England or Wales. This applies whether it’s a wooden, metal, plastic or brick shed. However, there are a few conditions your shed will have to meet to not require planning permission:
  • The shed doesn’t cover more than 50% of the garden
  • It’s not in front of your house
  • The shed is single-storey with eaves no higher than 2.5m and the overall height is no taller than 4m for a dual-pitched roof, or 3m for any other type. If it’s located within 2 metres of your property’s boundary, it mustn't be more than 2.5m high
  • There’s no veranda or balcony
  • The floor area is no bigger than 15m2 - up to 30m2 may be covered under Permitted Development if other conditions are met
  • The shed is for domestic use only by those who live in the property and there’s no sleeping accommodation – that means you can’t run a business from the shed unless you apply for planning permission
Exceptions Of course, there are always exceptions:
  • If you live in a listed building, you’ll need Listed Building Consent before you can build a shed in your garden
  • If you live in a conservation area or similar, the maximum area of ground covered by outbuildings, pools and enclosures situated more than 20m from any wall of the house mustn’t exceed 10m2 if they’re to be considered as a permitted development
  • If you own a piece of woodland, you must seek planning permission for any permanent structure
  • In Scotland, you’ll need planning permission if any part of the shed comes within 1m of a neighbouring property or is more than 2.5m high
  • In Northern Ireland, there are rules about how close your shed can be from a road that passes by the back of your house. It’s best to check for clarification
So if you live in a straightforward house in England or Wales, you shouldn’t need planning permission for your shed. If you’re in any doubt, make sure you check with your local planning office.
How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
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