Floor Tiles (Supplied and Fitted) in Par

Removing floor tile is always a simple task until you get started. Then, you’d realize not only is it a tedious and time consuming task, but also one with multiple hidden challenges that’s only revealed once the project is underway. If you have no experience or perhaps you lack the confidence required to pull this off, we’d highly recommend you call in a professional who can guarantee the best outcome and save you some unnecessary spending. However, if you wish to tackle this yourself, this guide would be your perfect partner to ensure a successful outcome.

To get started, you’ll need the following tools; hammer, chisel, pry bar, scraper, trash can as well as a broom or shop vac.

1. Remove fixtures. Ensure the room is empty and remove all fixture that may get in the way.
2. Pick a starting point. Use a hammer and chisel to chip out a tile and create a starting point for the task. Depending on how the tile is affixed and the underlayment type incorporated, the tile may remove easily or require some effort. Use a hammer, chisel, pry bar or pole scraper to remove the tiles.
3. Remove the tiles. From the starting point created, proceed to pry up the tiles. Deposit then in a trash can or large bucket in order to reduce clutter.
4. Access underlayment. There are cases whereby the tiling is attached directly to a concrete floor or subfloor, however the common practice is having a plywood or mortarboard underlayment. The damaged underlayment should be detached to expose the subfloor.
5. Clear debris. Wipe out all debris from the floor using a broom or shop vac.
6. Remove nails. If you removed the damaged underlayment, you may have to either remove or pound in some nails to get a level surface.

How To Remove Tile Floor

Removing old tile can be a very tricky process which require lots of skills and experience to get right, the first time. Here, you’ll learn the best approach to removing your old tile by yourself. During the removal process, be sure to incorporate the necessary tools while also protecting yourself by putting on the recommended safety requirements. These includes a floor scraper, paint scraper, dust mask, handheld chisel, safety glasses, drop sheet as well as leather gloves or top quality riggers.

Tile Removal Process

lBreak The First Tile

• Use a hammer to break the first tile (target the centre of the tile with the hammer).

• To protect yourself from the sharp edges of the broken tile, use a drop sheet to cover the surfaces.

lRemove The First Tile

• With a chisel, remove the broken tile that’s still bonded on the floor.

• Position the chisel on the grout line at the tile’s edge to remove the broken but glued tile.

lBreak Up The Remaining Tiles

• Break up several tiles at once and use the floor scrapper to remove it.

• Ensure that the bonding agent used is pliable to make the job a soft work. If the bonding agent is a bit more permanent in nature, then you might want to consider a dynamite to dislodge the flooring.

lRemove The Mortar

• Hit the mortar with a hammer on a 2 to 3 foot square section to remove it from the underlayment.

• Scrape off the mortar’s broken pieces using a floor scraper

• In the event whereby most of the mortar is not removed, your best bet would be to change the underlayment.

• Bonding agent (adhesive) removal is not the easiest of tasks. To make it a bit simpler, you can softening the adhesive with a heat gun before scraping with the help a wide putty knife.

Tile removal is not only a tedious task, but can also be harmful if adequate care is not taken. If you’re inexperienced or not well trained, we’d recommend you hire the services of a professional to avoid making mistakes and incurring extra costs.

Can You Tile Over Floor Tiles?

Are you about to tackle a refurbishment or renovation project? If yes, then you might be worried about the removal of your old tiles before installing the new ones. Being fully aware that this process can be time and money consuming, it can only make sense to consider whether you can tile on existing tiles. The answer is yes, however, there are a few details you must take into account when embarking on this cost-effective journey. Here’s our advice:

lSelect The New Tiles

• Take into consideration the surface behind the tiles and the weight it’ll be able to withstand.

• For plasterboard, the surface can withstand about 30kg to 32kg per m2 (28.5kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 3.5kg of adhesive and grout).

• For skimmed plasterboard, the surface can hold about 18kg to 20kg per m2 ( 16kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 4kg of adhesive and grout )

• Consider the existing tiles, if heavy enough, then your choice for the new tiles should very light.

lPrepare Old Tiles

• Confirm that the old tiles are well glued to the substrate.

• Check that the tiles are level. If not, use a grinder to flatten out any humps.

• Remove the sealer for the old tiles, if any.

• Clear out all dust and dirt.

lLay New Tiles

• Spread a layer of flexible adhesive.

• Lay the new tiles

lFinish The Project

• Fill the joints with an appropriate tile grout.

• Seal the edges with a sealant.

It’s as simple as that! However, it must be said that if you’re lacking the appropriate training or experience to pull this off, then you probably would not want the first trial on your prized asset. For a top quality job and to avoid unnecessary costs, you can reach out to a tiling professional for help.

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d want to try out on your bathroom without some practices.  For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

1. Make Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor
   Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.
2. Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.
3. Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.
4. Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.
5. Cut The Tiles
6. Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.
7. Choose The Appropriate Adhesive
8. To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer. If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar
9. Prepare The Area
10. Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.
11. Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.
12. Space The Tiles
    Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.
13. If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.
14. Use The Right Grout
15. With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.
16. The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.
17. Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.