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1. Using a rubber mallet and a strong pallet knife, remove the beading around the window. You might think they’re part of the frame, but they’re actually separate on the inside of the frame and can be taken out by using pallet knife to prize them out. Start with one of the longest beads first and leave the top bead until last.
2. Give the glass a little tap to loosen it if it doesn’t come out straight away, then the whole unit should slide out easily. Just make sure it falls towards you and not back out onto the ground below!
3. Clear any debris that has found its way into the frame with a brush. Add spacers at the bottom of the frame – these could be pieces of plastic.
4. Get your new sealed unit (make sure you measure the glass before you buy one so you know which size to get) and carefully take it out of the packaging. Look for the British Standard mark – that shows you the bottom of the glass.
5. Lift the glass into the frame, starting with the bottom first, and make sure that it fits square in the frame before taking the spacers out.
6. Use a little washing up liquid to spread along the beads to make it easier when you slide them back into the frame. If they simply push and clip back in, you can use something like a block of wood to help you push them in correctly. Put them back in reverse order to how you took them out.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

• Impact from a stone or other object smashing the glass in a ‘bullseye’ effect
• The result of a break-in
• Extreme weather or changes in pressure causing a crack
• The sealed unit being ‘blown’, meaning that it’s no longer energy efficient due to air leaking out

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.

Are you about to replace your old windows and wondering just how much it’ll cost to have a new one fitted? If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! The question is a very straight forward one, however a direct answer can not be provided as determining window prices for a replacement project can be a very tricky challenge. With a plethora of influencing factors that can play a key role in the price of both materials and labour to be used, it could be extremely hard for a window installer to provide a cost estimate without paying you a visit beforehand.

The factors that can go a long way in determining the price of your new window includes the size of the window, frame material, style chosen, your location, rates charged by the window installer (these rates can be different from an installer to an installer, so it’ll probably be in your best interest to compare quotes to identify the most competitive price) as well as the type of glass required.

Generally, for a small flat featuring four windows, the average cost for new windows would be between the range of £2,100 to £2,300. This range provided covers the cost of double glazed uPVC casement windows as well as the installation price. In the same tone, a home with up to 8 windows will have an average cost for window replacement between the range of £4,400 to £4,600, wile also taking into account the installation price. Whereas a house comprising 10 windows could begin at an average cost of window replacement between the the range of £5,200 to £5,500, and a 15 window home will be between the range of £8,400 to £8,600. it should be noted that the aforementioned figures only include the standard number of windows with a uPVC frame and the installation cost.

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.

You can only repair blown double glazed windows in the sense that you can replace the sealed unit (the glass part of the window) instead of having to replace the entire window.

When a double glazed window is blown, it means that the seal around the window has failed and is now letting air in and out. Often the first sign that the sealed unit has blown is condensation on the inside of the window, which is annoying since there’s no way to get rid of it! When your sealed unit has blown, you’ll be losing heat out of the window, meaning you could be spending more on your energy bills.

As a temporary fix, you could see if you can buy a misting repair kit online, but the condensation will eventually occur again as the air gets in. The best thing to do is ask a window installer or glazier to replace the sealed unit for you.

It's simple to replace the glass in a window – the specialist will remove the beading around the window, remove the blown glass from your window frame and set it to one side. They will then clean up around the frame before adding spacers in, then fitting the new sealed unit into the frame. They’ll make sure it’s a snug fit before replacing the beading back around the window to secure it.

There's no reason to put off repairing a blown double glazed window since the cost is generally much less than replacing the entire thing. A sealed unit with installation costs an average of £100, whereas a completely new window will cost around £400. You’ll soon notice that it’s less draughty and will be able see out of your window once you’ve had the blown glass replaced.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.