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There are so many benefits that comes with building a porch in your home premises. It’s an extra space where a lot can be achieved such as drying a dripping wet dog, taking off your dirty shoes or boot and lots more. So if you’re considering to construct a porch, it’s definitely going to be a wise decision. However, before you get started, there’s a need to determine if you’ll need planning permission for a porch. It’s important to take note that planning laws are dynamic and can be updated at any point, so be sure only to use trusted sources only as your guide. If you’re the homeowner or landlord, it’s entirely your responsibility to obtain the right approval for any development project you wish to carry out within your premises.

A Porch can not be termed as an extension and neither is it a conservatory, they’re basically built to the home’s front covering the main entrance using a stone base or a brick. As a result, a porch does not need planning permission due to the fact that it’s covered by the permitted development rights if the specific guidelines for porches are complied with. Below are the instances where you WILL need planning permission for a porch.

✓ If the floor space is more than 3sqm (the wall inclusive).

✓ The highest point has a height of more than 3 metres.

✓ If the porch is situated within 2 metres of a boundary directly facing on to the road.

You may need planning permission if the house is a listed building, designated area or falls under an Article 4 Direction.

In order to build a porch without planning permission, you need to consider all the criteria stated above. You can also visit the Planning Portal website to get more detailed information before getting started.

By replacing the single glazed windows in your home you stand to make savings of around £170 each year. It’s not just the financial gain that makes double glazing attractive though and you can also save up to 680kg of carbon emissions annually. Over 20 years this is a saving of around £3,400 and 13,600kg of CO2.

• Washing up liquid
• Glass cleaner
• A lint-free cloth or rag
• A putty knife
• A paper plate
• Acetone

It depends on a few factors whether a new double glazed window will look different to existing ones. If your existing windows are very old, perhaps 10 years or more, then it’s likely that there will be some small differences.

The first thing to remember is that your double glazing is exposed to the elements as soon as it’s installed. So over time, unless you’re very good at cleaning and maintaining your windows, they’re likely to look a bit dirty. Window frames that are south-facing may also become slightly discoloured from the sun, so if you install a new window right next to it you might notice a difference.

Also, there have been lots of technical advances in windows over the years. If your existing windows are significantly older, you might notice a difference in the handles on openers, and if your existing windows were installed before 2010 they might not have trickle vents, which is an extra strip on the inside of your window to keep air flowing through your home. While it’s not a legal requirement for replacement windows to have trickle vents if the original one didn’t, it’s a good idea to have them installed as they help prevent condensation and mould.

The only truly noticeably different elements to a new double glazed window compared with existing ones are likely to be on the inside, which might not be a problem for you if you only have one window in a room. However, if you know the brand of your existing windows, you can ask your window installer if they can source the same ones. Even if they’ve been updated slightly, the difference should be minimal.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

uPVC is unplasticised polyvinyl chloride. It is a favourite amongst homeowners and manufacturers for its cheap production cost and excellent benefits. uPVC is used for window frames, conservatories and doors. In fact, uPVC can be three times cheaper than wooden frames and is also the most energy efficient option.As well as this, uPVC is now available in a range of colours other than the typically seen bright white finish. It can also be recycled, is durable and resistant to changing weather conditions.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.