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Some properties are unable to have double glazing, especially those in conservation areas or listed buildings. To counter this problem and still benefit from a warmer home and cheaper bills, secondary glazing is an option. Secondary glazing is a second pane fitted inside your original window. Secondary glazing will still save you around £105 yearly.

uPVC is unplasticised polyvinyl chloride. It is a favourite amongst homeowners and manufacturers for its cheap production cost and excellent benefits. uPVC is used for window frames, conservatories and doors. In fact, uPVC can be three times cheaper than wooden frames and is also the most energy efficient option.As well as this, uPVC is now available in a range of colours other than the typically seen bright white finish. It can also be recycled, is durable and resistant to changing weather conditions.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

Coloured double glazing windows are more expensive than white ones, in general. uPVC is the cheapest material to use for double glazing, and white is the standard colour. But there are endless possibilities in terms of colours you can have, and they do come at additional cost.

Some people choose to have coloured double glazing that matches or opposes the colour of the exterior of their house. Another popular option is a woodgrain effect, which from a distance looks just like more expensive timber windows. The best thing about a wood effect is that you can have the stylish look of wooden windows without the maintenance, and they should last longer.

While coloured double glazing is more expensive than white ones, it doesn’t have to break the bank. The best thing to do is get in touch with a range of window companies and ask them to come round to give you a quote. They should be able to offer you brochures or links to websites of different brands of windows that offer coloured frames. From there, you can decide on the installers you liked most and the brand you preferred.

It’s worth bearing in mind that it’s not always best to go with the cheapest coloured windows. While there lots of good, inexpensive options out there, sometimes very cheap windows won’t be good quality and may not last as long as other slightly more expensive brands. Speak to your installer about guarantees that may come with the windows and how long they would expect them to last before making your final decision.

Yes, of course! It’s common for people to replace just one double glazed window. One reason that people want to replace one window is that the sealed unit inside has failed. You’ll know if this has happened because you’ll be able to see condensation on the inside of glass, which gets frustrating because you can’t wipe it away. In this case, you can choose to simply replace the sealed unit or the entire frame, which you might want to do if it’s looking past its best.

When you’re replacing just one double glazed window, if you know the brand of your current windows you could ask your installer if they can source the same ones. This will help to keep them looking as similar as possible, although if your existing windows are very old you may notice some discolouration on the exterior compared to the new one, and locks and trickle vents might look different.

Replacing just one double glazed window shouldn’t take a qualified window fitter long, and could cost as little as £400. If you want to simply replace the sealed unit, that may only cost around £250. You could try to fit a new window yourself, but it’s worth bearing in mind that all replacement windows need to be certified that they’ve been installed to meet building regulations, so you’ll need to apply to your local building control officer who will come and inspect the work then issue a certificate. If you ask an installer who is registered with a self-certification scheme (like FENSA) to fit the window for you, they can issue the certificate themselves when they’ve finished the work.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.