Find a Window Installer you can trust in Barnet.

Double glazed windows are better than single glazed generally because they are more energy efficient. The clue’s in the name – double glazed windows have two panes of glass while single glazed windows only have one. In double glazed windows, there is a space between the two glass panes. This space is filled with inert gas or a tight vacuum, which helps to provide an extra level of insulation. That means that heat won’t escape your home easily, nor will it creep in, so you can keep your home at a more comfortable temperature.

The extra pane of glass also helps to increase your home’s security. Single glazing is pretty easy to smash through, whereas it will take much more effort to smash double glazing and will create more noise, so burglars might be put off.

Another reason why double glazed windows are better than single glazed ones is that they help to reduce noise. Of course, if you live by a busy road you’ll still hear some traffic noise, but it can be significantly reduced buy double glazing. In the same way that the inert gas in the middle of the two panes keeps heat in and the cold out, it also helps keep noise out.

With double glazing, you’ll also notice much less condensation. With single glazing, it’s common to see condensation on the inside of the windows, especially when the heating is on. This is because the outside of the window is cold, but the inside is warm. With double glazing, the insulation between the two panes stops there being such a difference in temperature between the inside and outside of the window.

To install one small double glazed window, it will take anywhere between two hours and half a day. It will depend on whether one installer is fitting your window or two. And if you’re doing it yourself and don’t have any professional experience, it will take even longer.

When the window fitters arrive, they will make sure they’ve got safe access to the window and move any heavy furniture if they need to. Any good installer will lay down a dust sheet, but it’s a good idea to check that they’ve got one laid down before they start.

The first step any window installer will take is to double check the measurements of the new frame against your existing one. Hopefully it should match up, so then they’ll take the old window out. Then, they’ll insert the new frame into the aperture and bolt it into the concrete. They'll check it with a spirit level to ensure it’s even before moving onto the glass sealed unit.

The installer will place the glass into the aperture, then fit the beads to secure the glass in the frame. They’ll then use silicone and trim on the inside and outside to ensure the window looks perfect. You won’t be able to see where they’ve used sealants or trims because they’ll colour match them so it’s not noticeable. Then, they’ll tidy up all of their tools and the working area and let you know what needs to be done in terms of proving that the window meets building regulations. Most good installers are registered with a self-certification scheme, so will be able to issue a certification once the work is complete.

Most window installers will be able to provide you with one double glazed window and fit it for you. If you’re replacing one double glazed window in your home, ask them to try and source the same windows that you already have or find one that’s very similar. Externally, you probably won’t be able to notice the difference, but if your existing windows are very old there may be some exterior discolouration and the locks and handles might look slightly different.

If you want one double glazed window so you can fit it yourself, there are lots of online companies that can supply you with one window. However, window fitting is a skilled trade and you might want to consider whether you have the right tools and experience to fit it yourself. Of course, you’ll save money on installation costs, but if something goes wrong, you might end up shelling out to get it fixed anyway.

The other thing to consider is that any replacement windows need to be certified that they meet Building Regulations. If you fit the double glazed window yourself, you’ll need to apply to your local council building control officer to get a certificate that confirms that you fitted the window within the regulations. You’ll have to pay a fee for this, and it will be even more expensive if Building Control say that the window hasn’t been fitted within the regulations and you have to start again.

The alternative is to ask a reputable window installer that is registered with a self-certification scheme, like FENSA, to install the window. That means that they can self-certify that the window meets building regulations once they’ve finished the installation.

The simple answer to this question is... they can be! Although there are many types of porch designs that are available in the market, the uPVC porch happens to be one of the most loved and cost effective. Most home and property owners prefer the installation of a uPVC porch for a number of reasons. These includes:

• Value for money

It’s no coincidence the uPVC is widely accepted across the building industry with a plethora of uses. Not only is it relatively inexpensive to manufacture, but even the recycled uPVC is now becoming more and more useful. UPVC’s main rivals are wood and aluminium, and both are way more expensive to incorporate for frame profiles. Therefore, making use of uPVC is going to make your initial costs relatively low.

• Life Span

Although the main rivals in both hardwood and aluminium can also boast a lengthy lifespan just as uPVC. However, considering the price that you can get a uPVC, the lifespan is just incredible as it can be measured in decades.

• Aesthetic Appeal

UPVC gives you a wide range of foil colours that’ll fit your home perfectly well while also enhancing it’s visual appeal. You can actually get a porch that looks exactly like it’s manufactured from timber frames. To achieve this, all you need to do would be to make use of a wood grain surface finish. This is also long lasting, strong and resistant to fade.

• Little Maintenance

This is a very common feature of uPVC that makes it even more advantageous when used in making a porch. Unlike timber or wood which swells due to absorption of water or shrinks, you’ll never need to worry about all these distortions and more with uPVC. No painting, no sanding and ultimately, low maintenance required.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.

These days, buyers expect homes to have double glazing. People recognise the benefits of installing double glazing, so if you don’t have it installed you should consider it. You’ll increase your property’s value and give it a better chance of selling faster, since single glazed properties are also more likely to have problems with damp and mould which could put buyers off.

Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.