Find a Window Installer you can trust in Gwent.

Velux installers offer the Velux Active home kit. This provides an automated system to enhance your indoor living. With its sensor-based ventilation apparatus, the Velux active home kit’s smart sensors repeatedly monitor your home’s temperature, humidity and CO2 levels for its optimum healthy living standards.

Sensor-based ventilation
Velux Active tracks temperature, humidity and CO2-levels, and ventilates to keep your indoor climate nice and healthy.

Automatic heat protection
Velux Active automatically protects your home from excessive heat by closing your Velux Integra blinds, awnings and shutters on hot days.

Set personal preferences
Want to swap your alarm clock for a sunrise or air out while you’re at work? Customise your indoor climate with Velux Active.

Voice-control and smart speaker integration come standard with VELUX ACTIVE with NETATMO, enabling you to draw the shades or open the windows just by asking.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.

It depends on a few factors whether a new double glazed window will look different to existing ones. If your existing windows are very old, perhaps 10 years or more, then it’s likely that there will be some small differences.

The first thing to remember is that your double glazing is exposed to the elements as soon as it’s installed. So over time, unless you’re very good at cleaning and maintaining your windows, they’re likely to look a bit dirty. Window frames that are south-facing may also become slightly discoloured from the sun, so if you install a new window right next to it you might notice a difference.

Also, there have been lots of technical advances in windows over the years. If your existing windows are significantly older, you might notice a difference in the handles on openers, and if your existing windows were installed before 2010 they might not have trickle vents, which is an extra strip on the inside of your window to keep air flowing through your home. While it’s not a legal requirement for replacement windows to have trickle vents if the original one didn’t, it’s a good idea to have them installed as they help prevent condensation and mould.

The only truly noticeably different elements to a new double glazed window compared with existing ones are likely to be on the inside, which might not be a problem for you if you only have one window in a room. However, if you know the brand of your existing windows, you can ask your window installer if they can source the same ones. Even if they’ve been updated slightly, the difference should be minimal.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

Most Sun Tunnel Kits are available in sizes from 250mm Diameter to 550mm Diameter. This gives you a good range to choose from depending on the size of the room you are trying to brighten.

• 250mm Sun Tube – Perfect for room sizes up to 10m2. (Hallways, Small Bathrooms)
• 350 – 450mm Sun Tubes – Perfect for rooms 10 to 15m2. Larger Hallways, Stairwells and Bathrooms.
• 550mm Sun Tube – Ideal for rooms 15 – 22m2. Kitchens, Bedrooms, Living Rooms.

Most installers will not need you to be at home while they are fitting your windows. It is a good idea to be present though, just in case they have any questions for you and perhaps for your own peace of mind. If you cannot be there, you will need to arrange access to the property and/or agree securing the property at the end of the day.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

On the grand scale of things there isn’t a huge difference between B-rated windows and A-rated windows. Consumer watchdog Which? have calculated an extra 6.5% would be saved on energy bills with A rather than B rated panes. Be aware that A rated windows are slightly more expensive, however.