Find a Window Installer you can trust in Rayleigh.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

Some properties are unable to have double glazing, especially those in conservation areas or listed buildings. To counter this problem and still benefit from a warmer home and cheaper bills, secondary glazing is an option. Secondary glazing is a second pane fitted inside your original window. Secondary glazing will still save you around £105 yearly.

You can only repair blown double glazed windows in the sense that you can replace the sealed unit (the glass part of the window) instead of having to replace the entire window.

When a double glazed window is blown, it means that the seal around the window has failed and is now letting air in and out. Often the first sign that the sealed unit has blown is condensation on the inside of the window, which is annoying since there’s no way to get rid of it! When your sealed unit has blown, you’ll be losing heat out of the window, meaning you could be spending more on your energy bills.

As a temporary fix, you could see if you can buy a misting repair kit online, but the condensation will eventually occur again as the air gets in. The best thing to do is ask a window installer or glazier to replace the sealed unit for you.

It's simple to replace the glass in a window – the specialist will remove the beading around the window, remove the blown glass from your window frame and set it to one side. They will then clean up around the frame before adding spacers in, then fitting the new sealed unit into the frame. They’ll make sure it’s a snug fit before replacing the beading back around the window to secure it.

There's no reason to put off repairing a blown double glazed window since the cost is generally much less than replacing the entire thing. A sealed unit with installation costs an average of £100, whereas a completely new window will cost around £400. You’ll soon notice that it’s less draughty and will be able see out of your window once you’ve had the blown glass replaced.

It is constantly important to consider your skill degree as well as your physical capacity when picking to tackle a Do It Yourself task. Generally, sun tunnel setup is not made to be tried by anybody without experience and training for the following reasons:

• You will likely need professional devices which may include scaffolding.
• It is really unsafe to deal with a roofing as a result of the danger of falling.
• Your sun tunnel have to be appropriately secured to avoid leaks as well as drafts coming through your roofing.
• This installment is not a straightforward, easy job. It involves eliminating roofing ceramic tiles, attaching a panel, thoroughly installing the passage and also even more.

Are you about to replace your old windows and wondering just how much it’ll cost to have a new one fitted? If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! The question is a very straight forward one, however a direct answer can not be provided as determining window prices for a replacement project can be a very tricky challenge. With a plethora of influencing factors that can play a key role in the price of both materials and labour to be used, it could be extremely hard for a window installer to provide a cost estimate without paying you a visit beforehand.

The factors that can go a long way in determining the price of your new window includes the size of the window, frame material, style chosen, your location, rates charged by the window installer (these rates can be different from an installer to an installer, so it’ll probably be in your best interest to compare quotes to identify the most competitive price) as well as the type of glass required.

Generally, for a small flat featuring four windows, the average cost for new windows would be between the range of £2,100 to £2,300. This range provided covers the cost of double glazed uPVC casement windows as well as the installation price. In the same tone, a home with up to 8 windows will have an average cost for window replacement between the range of £4,400 to £4,600, wile also taking into account the installation price. Whereas a house comprising 10 windows could begin at an average cost of window replacement between the the range of £5,200 to £5,500, and a 15 window home will be between the range of £8,400 to £8,600. it should be noted that the aforementioned figures only include the standard number of windows with a uPVC frame and the installation cost.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

Double glazing frames don’t just have to come in uPVC and are available in other materials including aluminium and wood too. Wooden or timber windows are more suited to properties with a traditional look and are often the frame of choice for listed buildings and homes in conservation areas. When properly maintained wooden windows can last well for years but can be up to three times more expensive than uPVC.Aluminium is the strongest and most durable option. As a metal it is highly resistant to the UK’s changing weather conditions and won’t rust, warp, crack or peel. Aluminium offers a modern appeal and is available in a range of colours.

Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.