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If you’ve decided to construct a porch to your property and now looking to figure out the cost required to complete the project, then you’re at the right place!

There are many factors that comes to play when determining the price of building a porch. These factors includes the size of the porch, the number of windows, the style of the roof as well as the type of the porch selected. Now let’s take a look at these factors one after the other.

• The Porch’s Size

As you would have correctly imagined, a large porch will definitely cost more money than a smaller one. A rough estimate of a porch’s cost per square metre is approximately £1,400.

• The Number Of Windows

Just like in the scenario above, the more the number of windows to be incorporated, the more money you’ll have to pay to complete your porch. A porch window will generally cost you within a range of £300 to £1,000

• The Style Of The Roof

There are two popular styles of porch’s roof which includes a tiled rood and a rubber flat roof. Generally, roof tiles are costlier than a rubber flat roof. A tiled roof would cost you between £0.80 to £1.80 per roof tile, while a rubber roofing will cost your between £70 to £90 per metre squared.

• Type Of The Porch

Another huge determinant of a porch’s price is type of material incorporated. For instance, if your preferred type is a lean-to, the price of a uPVC would be between £2,300 to £2,700. Meanwhile, a flat gable roof porch should cost within a range of £3,300 to £3,800.

Kindly note that the costs quoted in this article are only rough estimates, for a more accurate estimate you can contact a porch building professional within your local area.

One of the essential factors that makes a home truly a home is the convenience and comfort it provides us. As a result, we usually have a long to do list comprising things that come together to make sure our home is comfortable with ambient temperature at the very top of the scale of preference. After all, no matter how greatly designed your furniture and home decor is, it probably would amount for nothing if the temperature is either too hot or too cold. Some of the most common ways we incorporate to make the temperature a lot more conducive and warm during the winter months is by installing air conditioning system or through top notch insulation materials, but the fact still remains that a lot of heat would escape through the doors and windows. And that’s exactly the use of double glazing. So how exactly does double glazing work?

Double glazing basically works by preventing the escape of air and trapping it between two panes of glass. It’s the trapped air which serves as an insulation barrier which delivers 3 major functions. First and foremost, it stops the escape of heat through the window as the barrier created insulates the room from varying air temperatures at both sides of the glazing unit. The second major function is the double glazing works to keep down noise pollution coming from outside. While the third major function of double glazing I the fact that it helps minimize condensation which usually occurs on the single glazed windows’ inside as the cold outside air works to cool the warm air inside the house. When you install a double glazing window, the insulation barrier generated will work to stop the air temperature transmission which ultimately helps prevent the occurrence of condensation.

The energy efficiency of windows is measured using ratings, varying from A, the most efficient, to G, the least efficient. This scheme is run by the British Fenestration Council (BFRC). To comply with Building Regulations you’ll need windows of energy efficiency at least level C.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

On the grand scale of things there isn’t a huge difference between B-rated windows and A-rated windows. Consumer watchdog Which? have calculated an extra 6.5% would be saved on energy bills with A rather than B rated panes. Be aware that A rated windows are slightly more expensive, however.

No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.

As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.

In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.

• Thick gloves
• A hammer
• A broom
• A vacuum cleaner
• Thick-soled shoes
• Safety goggles

1. Put your gloves on and use the hammer to remove the rest of the glass. Make sure you hit the glass away from you.
2. Using the broom, sweep away any loose glass from the area, making sure you do both inside and outside.
3. Use your vacuum cleaner to remove any small pieces of glass that you might not have been able to see.

Removing a double glazed window can be quite labour intensive. If you decide to try it yourself, make sure you give yourself plenty of time, and wear gloves and goggles.

Begin by unscrewing all opening windows at the hinges and removing them. Then take away the beading and putty around any fixed panes and take them out too.

Once you’ve removed all the glass, use a saw to put angled cuts in the frame, and a bar and hammer to remove it in sections. You should remove the sill if you’re going to replace that too.

Finally, cut through any screws holding the frame into place with a hacksaw.