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Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.

On the grand scale of things there isn’t a huge difference between B-rated windows and A-rated windows. Consumer watchdog Which? have calculated an extra 6.5% would be saved on energy bills with A rather than B rated panes. Be aware that A rated windows are slightly more expensive, however.

The energy efficiency of windows is measured using ratings, varying from A, the most efficient, to G, the least efficient. This scheme is run by the British Fenestration Council (BFRC). To comply with Building Regulations you’ll need windows of energy efficiency at least level C.

All new windows come with an energy efficiency rating from A to G. A is best, while G is the lowest rating. Anything above C is considered good, but these days most companies will be able to supply you with A-rated windows to maximise your energy efficiency.

Double glazing frames don’t just have to come in uPVC and are available in other materials including aluminium and wood too. Wooden or timber windows are more suited to properties with a traditional look and are often the frame of choice for listed buildings and homes in conservation areas. When properly maintained wooden windows can last well for years but can be up to three times more expensive than uPVC.Aluminium is the strongest and most durable option. As a metal it is highly resistant to the UK’s changing weather conditions and won’t rust, warp, crack or peel. Aluminium offers a modern appeal and is available in a range of colours.

To install one small double glazed window, it will take anywhere between two hours and half a day. It will depend on whether one installer is fitting your window or two. And if you’re doing it yourself and don’t have any professional experience, it will take even longer.

When the window fitters arrive, they will make sure they’ve got safe access to the window and move any heavy furniture if they need to. Any good installer will lay down a dust sheet, but it’s a good idea to check that they’ve got one laid down before they start.

The first step any window installer will take is to double check the measurements of the new frame against your existing one. Hopefully it should match up, so then they’ll take the old window out. Then, they’ll insert the new frame into the aperture and bolt it into the concrete. They'll check it with a spirit level to ensure it’s even before moving onto the glass sealed unit.

The installer will place the glass into the aperture, then fit the beads to secure the glass in the frame. They’ll then use silicone and trim on the inside and outside to ensure the window looks perfect. You won’t be able to see where they’ve used sealants or trims because they’ll colour match them so it’s not noticeable. Then, they’ll tidy up all of their tools and the working area and let you know what needs to be done in terms of proving that the window meets building regulations. Most good installers are registered with a self-certification scheme, so will be able to issue a certification once the work is complete.

uPVC is unplasticised polyvinyl chloride. It is a favourite amongst homeowners and manufacturers for its cheap production cost and excellent benefits. uPVC is used for window frames, conservatories and doors. In fact, uPVC can be three times cheaper than wooden frames and is also the most energy efficient option.As well as this, uPVC is now available in a range of colours other than the typically seen bright white finish. It can also be recycled, is durable and resistant to changing weather conditions.

If you’ve got a problem with condensation and don’t have double glazing, you should find that getting new windows will help. Condensation is caused by warm air meeting a cold surface which then turns into water droplets. With two panes of glass, less heat will escape from your home and keep the window warmer, meaning when steam from the bathroom or kitchen touches your windows there should be less condensation.