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You should always wait until plaster is dry before painting. The time this will take varies depending on the room and property, but in general, it will take about a week. Your plasterer will tell you how long it is best to leave it before covering or painting their work.

How To Tile A Bathroom Wall With Large Tiles

It is crucial to make the walls of your bathroom waterproof, and a great way to do this is by installing tiles on them. And to make it more effective, less time consuming and a lot easier, you can make use of the large tiles in your shower. So how do you have them installed? With this brief guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the bathroom wall large tiles installation. Let’s have a look!

lGet The Appropriate Substrate

• Clean the surface on which the large tiles will be placed

• Make use of levelling spacers to ensure the large wall tiles are even.

• Get a cement-made backer board to install the tiles

• You made require a large format wall adhesive for the installation, if the large wall tiles are different

lSet The Layout

• You may need a dry layout for the tiles installation (installation without mortar or other bonding agents).

• Start with the first wall opposite the bathroom’s entrance

• Once completed, you can continue with the remaining parts of the bathroom wall.

• Place the first tile at the centre.

• Place the subsequent tiles on each side of the previous ones to have a more balanced installation.

There are three varying materials that can be utilized in installing heavy wall tiles. These includes thin set mortar, epoxy and mastic. However, you should always make use of epoxy for large format tile layout. To do this, simply place the tiles at your desired angle and gently twist them to hold firmly in place. Continue with this process till you have successfully covered the entire bathroom wall with the large tiles. Once done, leave the bathroom wall to dry.

It is advised that you hire the professional services of a tile installation company in order to get the best outcome especially if you lack the necessary experience, tools and knowledge to carry out the project. This will save you some time, effort and money.

If you’re thinking about installing a carpet on your floor, one of the most important things you’d have to put into consideration before you proceed is the most suitable type of underlay to ensure your carpet is placed appropriately and maximum value is derived. This is a common issue for several homeowners and we aim to help you clear the worries once and for all. In this post, we’re going to consider the best underlay for your carpet to help you make the best informed decision moving forward. Let’s take a look!

In all honesty, there’s no straightforward answer to this question as the best carpet underlay depends on a number of factors. These factors include the type of carpet you wish to install, the type of flooring it will sit on ( e.g, concrete or underfloor heating), your budget, the room you’re laying the underlay in as well as your personal preferences in terms of durability, comfort, noise reduction and more.

When a carpet underlay is carefully selected, it’ll act as a shock absorber - perfect for protecting your floors against high traffic and impact, making sure that your carpeted floor looks good and healthy for a long period of time.

Generally, the best carpet underlay for bedrooms will be a thick, sponge rubber underlay or a wool combination felt variation which guarantees your comfort. For living rooms and lounges, the best carpet underlay would be one that is sumptuous and velvety soft to provide a comfortable floor. For dining rooms, you’d be smart to get a good quality hard-wearing carpet underlay as this area is one of the most frequently occupied areas in the home.

If you’re considering laying gravel on your driveway, then you’d probably want to know the amount of gravel you’ll need to complete the project. When you are calculating the amount of gravel you’ll require to cover your driveway, there’s an important factor you’ll need to consider and that is the type of gravel you opt for such as a crushed or pea gravel. There are varying grades which are found in particles from fine to course, with a size ranging from 2mm to 64mm. Therefore, there’s a need to estimate the volume of the gravel while also having the rock’s size in mind. Also, there’s a need to select your most preferred gravel which you’ll like to use before proceeding to dig the depth of your driveway and subsequently determine the amount of gravel that’ll be needed using these excellent tips.

✓ Determine the size and coverage. As you would have expected, the smaller the gravel is, the bigger the coverage will be, and gravels should be at least 4 inches deep. However, if the rocks happen to be a bit large then you can allow for an extra 1/2 inch.

✓ Measure the driveway. Multiply the width by the length and depth to get the size of the driveway in cubic feet. Meanwhile for cubic yards, you can divide the total cubic feet by 27. This is due to the fact that one cubic feet is same as 1.13 tons.

✓ Working with gravel. Here, you’ll have to calculate an underlay measurements differently. You can use 2 inches of road base that’ll be overlaid with 2 inches of gravel.

No – solar thermal doesn’t generate electricity. Unlike solar PV, solar thermal panels harness the sun’s energy and convert it into heat which is then transferred into your home.

You can have evacuated tube solar thermal panels or flat plate collectors; evacuated tubes are thought to be more efficient that flat plate collectors. They both work by using the sun’s rays to heat a transfer fluid, usually made from water and a type of antifreeze, which is pumped to a heat exchanger inside a water tank in your home. The heat from the exchanger heats the water inside your tank, then when the liquid releases its heat it’s transferred back to the collectors to start the whole process again.

You’ll need to use your solar thermal panel system with a boiler, collector or immersion heater. This is so that the water can be stored and used for your hot water and heating, and also because in the UK, people generally need to rely on another source of heating in the winter. There are fewer sunlight hours in the winter months, so it’s not often possible for solar thermal panels to generate enough heat from the sun to get your water up to temperature.

Whatever the time of year it is, you might want to heat the water up further than your solar panels can manage. That’s why you’ll still need a form of traditional hot water heating, but you should see savings on your energy bills. If you’re currently using natural gas, you can expect savings of around £60 per year on your fuel bills, while if you’re using LPG it could be as high as £100 pr year

There are two main types of air source heat pump: air-to-water and air-to-air. They work in different ways and have different advantages and disadvantages. Make sure you do your research so you know which one is best for you. Alternatively a registered installer will be able to determine the best type for your property.

If you’re looking to plaster your ceiling, one of the most essential parts of the process is cutting the plasterboard. Once you’re able to master this skill, the rest of the plastering is quite easy. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but with a little bit of patience and confidence. If you lack any of these attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the plasterboard ceiling cutting process. Let’s take a look!

To cut plasterboard ceiling, you don’t need any expensive tool which is usually not the case when it comes to carpentry. If you won’t be cutting a lot of plasterboard, all you really need would be just an old handsaw or plasterboard one, a Stanley knife as well as a straight edge. However, if you’ll be cutting lots of plasterboards, you’ll require the following to make your task a lot easier:

✓ An old handsaw

✓ A Stanley knife and many spare blades

✓ A straight edge like a long spirit level

✓ A surform

✓ A battery drill and oh2 screwdriver bits, with specific plasterboard screws.

To cut plasterboard to length, you’ll have to first score a line on the face side of the board with a straight edge and Stanley knife. Once done, simply lift the sheet off the ground and snap it along the score line. Then, you can run your knife down the other side of the board , cutting the back of the plasterboard backing sheet. Upon completion, your plasterboard is now ready to be fitted on your ceiling.

How To Take Tiles Off A Wall

The bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

lSafety First, Then Remove The First Tile

• Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.

• Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.

• Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.

lRemove The Remaining Tiles

• By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.

• Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.

• Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.

• With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.

lCut The Fasteners

• Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.

lRemove All Wallboard Sections

• Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.

• Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.

• Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.