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When your tiles get old and starts to lose its curb appeal and deteriorate, it’s certainly time to have it removed. When it comes to old wall tiles removal, you have two options which is either you do it yourself or call in a professional – with the latter being more advisable. However, if you wish to save some money on installation and carry out the task yourself, then you’ve come to the right place!

Firstly, you have to know that the bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

1. Safety First, Then Remove The First Tile
   Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.
2. Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.
3. Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.
4. Remove The Remaining Tiles
   By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.
5. Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.
6. Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.
7. With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.
8. Cut The Fasteners
   Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.
9. Remove All Wallboard Sections
   Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.
10. Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.
11. Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.

What an electrical safety certificate offers both home and property owners as well as tenants is peace of mind. However, if you’re going to get an electrical certificate, you’d probably want to know just how much it’s going to cost. In this post, we aim to give you an idea of the electrical safety certificate pricing in order to help you make a budget and start planning. Let’s take a look!

Generally, the cost of getting an electrical safety certificate in the UK is usually within the range of £80 to about £150 for a medium sized home. With that in mind, it’s also important to note that the price you’ll have to pay to acquire an electrical safety certificate is based on a number of factors which includes the complexity of the job, the size of your property amongst many others. All home and property owners including landlords should invest in getting an electrical safety certificate. The certificate can only be legally issued by a qualified and certified electrician and it must document that all electrical appliances as well as connectors within a property are totally safe and in a proper working condition. What’s more? More often than not, an electrical safety certificate test will most likely be completed in less than 24 hours.

The Electrical Safety report bring to life an concerns as regards the status of all electrical appliances and circuits. At present, it isn’t a legal requirement for home owners. However for landlords, it is an obligation to acquire an up to date Electrical Safety Certificate.

The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. If you’re interested in learning how to fit underfloor heating under wooden floor, then you’ve come to the right place! In this step by step guide, we’re going to take you through the process and providing you with all the necessary details at each step of the way. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

1. Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
2. Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
3. Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
4. Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
5. Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
6. Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
7. Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
8. Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
9. Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

With heating and cooling bills making up more than 50 percent of one’s overall utility expenses as reported by the Department of Energy, you’d probably want to know some ways in which in you can improve the efficiency of your air conditioning system. With the warmer months just around the corner, now is the best time to get started. Not only will you be able to improve the air conditioning efficiency in your home, but you’d also be able to save some money on cooling and heating bills. In this article, we’re going to consider the top 5 tips you can implement to get your air conditioning system running efficiently and at its maximum. Let’s take a look!

• Ensure that around your outdoor condenser unit is clean. When clean and free of debris, your outdoor unit is able to function at its best. This can be done by yourself just by watching a couple of videos, however you’ll need a professional whenever a more thorough and in depth cleaning required.
• Vacuum indoor vents and keep vents unblocked. In order to ensure there’s an uninterrupted airflow from your system, there’s a need to vacuum dust as well as form of debris away from the indoor vents. You should also keep items such as furniture and blinds away from obstructing the vents.
• Increase your thermostat by a number of degrees. Generally, adjusting temperature 5 to 8 degrees can go a long way to help you save some money.
• Keep lamps and other heat producing appliances away from the thermostat. Having heat producing appliance will only inform the thermostat that the air in the room needs extra cooling. This will make the system run longer and use up more electricity.
• Keep the curtains and blinds closed. This is to prevent the heat of the outside coming in and vice versa.

We all know how helpful air conditioning systems can be especially during the hot summer season which is great at making your home feel nothing less than an inferno. So if you have an AC system, you’d probably want to know if leaving it on will be cheaper and more efficient.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, leaving your air conditioning system on will make make it cheaper and more efficient. This isn’t what you or many other people will have in mind though. Under no circumstances should you leave you air conditioning system on full blast 24/7. To make your air conditioning system more efficient by leaving it on has a right and wrong way you can go about it. Let’s have a look!

If you’d ever noticed, any time you turn your air conditioner off during a very a hot day, even if it’s for just a couple of hours, things tend to get thrown out of balance pretty quickly. When turned back on, your AC system will have to work even harder to restore the usual comfort levels in the room. When you abuse this dial in such a fashion, the AC system can only become more inefficient rather than making your home more comfortable quickly.

On the other hand, your AC system ( when tuned to the right settings) can help maintain the proper temperature and humidity balance within your home instead of turning it off while away. And upon getting back, you can simply turn down the thermostat a bit which helps you prevent the usual stagnant air that you’d be hit with when your return home (with the AC system turned off) that’ll have you racing for the dial.

1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.

Not always is the answer, unfortunately many of the products sold for household use by untrained professionals may not get rid of all the fleas in your home. If some fleas are left they will reproduce and you will end up with a flea infestation again.