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Kitchen floor tiles are a very popular choice for several reasons. They’re durable, visually appealing, resistant to moisture and stain and also relatively easy to maintain and install especially when compare to wall tiles. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but requires a lot of patience as well as confidence. If you lack these attributes, then we’d recommend that you hire a professional floor tiler who can guarantee the best results the first time. In this article we’ll take you through the kitchen floor tiling process. Let’s get started!

• Prepare The Subfloor

✓ Ensure the subfloor is very secure to support both the tile and the people working across it.

✓ If necessary, you can strengthen the kitchen floor with the help of a vinyl, heavy felt or any other good backer board.

✓ After successfully securing the floor, proceed to clear out all dust and dirt.

• Mix The Mortar

✓ Mix a thinset mortar be referring to the instructions on the package. ( Mix only the quantity you can apply within 30 minutes).

✓ Once the mixture looks similar to the thickness of mayonnaise, allow it to rest for about 10 minutes before application.

• Apply The Mortar

✓ Apply a thin layer of mortar

✓ Do not cover extensive areas as the mortar can become very dry.

✓ Spread the mortar with a trowel in curved patterns to make it flat on the floor.

• Set The Tile

✓ Set down the tile slowly, apply a little pressure until its holds firmly to the surface. ( Apply a consistent amount of pressure throughout to ensure equal heights for all the tiles)

✓ Continue with the process until all full tiles are well positioned

• Cut The Tiles

✓ Once all the full tile pieces are in place, start cutting to cover the edges requiring smaller tile pieces.

✓ Take accurate measurements of the outer edges needing smaller tile pieces.

✓ Cut the tile pieces to fit the measurement taken with the help of a wet saw or hand tile cutter.

• Grouting

✓ Remove all spacers and mortar residues and lay the grout

✓ Apply the grout along the tiles’ seams with a grout float

✓ Clean out excess grout with a damp sponge after leaving it to dry for about 30 minutes

✓ Once the grout is fully dried, apply the sealer (the drying process normally takes within 3 to 4 days).

As well as keeping your home warmer and reducing noise, you’ll notice a saving on your energy bills from installing double glazing. If you install A++ rated windows in your home after having single glazing, you could save up to £120 year on your energy bills. The Energy Saving Trust has more information.

Signs of rising damp tend to be close to the ground, usually no higher than a metre. It usually works its way up walls in horizontal lines. Penetrating damp usually develops in patches and can often be much higher up. For more advice, speak to a damp proofing professional.

Yes – you can repair a flat roof in the winter. Contractors will still be able to help you repair leaks, and it’s a myth that they will charge more. Most won’t have any additional costs just for coming out in the winter.

You'll have to wait for any snow and ice to melt before you can repair your flat roof. Depending on what type of flat roof you have, some repairs might have to wait until temperatures reach a certain level above freezing – some coating products won’t adhere (stick) in low temperatures, but a roofing professional will be able to advise you on what is best to use in the winter. If you have an EDPM rubber roof, most of the adhesives won’t mix in cold weather, so you might have to wait until temperatures rise to get a proper repair to your flat roof.

The best way to avoid needing to repair your flat roof in the winter is to inspect it at regular intervals. During the summer, even in the UK’s mild weather, the sun’s UV rays can damage and weaken flat roof surfaces, potentially causing cracks and holes. As autumn approaches, take a look at your flat roof and see if you notice anything untoward. If you do, speak to a reputable roofer who can repair your flat roof for you before winter arrives.

How To Lay Tiles On Concrete

Installation of tiles on concrete sub-floors can be done with relative ease under adequate guidance. Here is what you have to do.

lPrepare The Concrete Subfloor

• Ensure the concrete is dry, clean and must be at least 6 weeks old.

• If there are dips and humps, level the concrete using a levelling compound.

lSet Out

• Working from the centre outwards, take a measurement of the floor (both length and width) and draw a cross at the centre.

• Lay out the tiles from the cross with a space of 3mm between each tiles. This will allow for movement stresses within the floor and later to be filled with grout upon installation of the tiles and adhesive dried.

lCut The Tiles

• Due to the particularly had nature of some floor tiles such as natural stone and porceclain, high quality tools are usually required to produce a clean cut through the tiles. With the help of an electric wet cutter alongside a slide cutter and nippers, your job would be made a lot easier.

• For a better result during intricate cuts, make use of a cardboard template.

lFix The Tiles

• The tiles should be fixed using a cement-based adhesive.

• Ensure to refer to the packaging or product data for the mixing ratios information.

• Stir the mixture till its lump-free

lApply The Mixture

• Spread the mixture onto the concrete sub-floor to create parallel ribs with the help of a floor trowel.

• Push the tiles into the parallel ribs.

• Clear out any excess adhesive from the tiles surface with a damp sponge.

• Do not walk on the tiles for at least 2 hours.

lGrout

• Once the adhesive is dried, wipe out any dust, adhesive or dirt from the tiles’ gaps.

• Mix about 4 to 5 parts of grout powder with 1 part of water and ix together.

• Apply the mixed grout diagonally across the tiles using a soft rubber grout float.

• Wipe out excess grout from the tiles surface and allow the tiles to dry.

• Stubborn residues can be cleaned using any washing up detergent with warm water within 24 hours after grouting.

Do you want your house to be built using brick? Or perhaps you just require the professional services of a bricklayer. Regardless of your bricklaying needs, the cost charged depends on each job as every job is unique. Bricklayers generally look at each task individually and charges based on the complexity of each. We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of the costs charged by bricklayers. Let’s have a look!

Generally, bricklayers charge either based on a daily rate or a fixed price for a particular amount of bricks ( usually a thousand bricks or 10 - 12 metres square). On the average, an experienced bricklayer can charge within a range of £150 to £200 daily rate and if a labour is needed for the job, an additional £60 to £100 may be included to get the job completed in a quick and fast manner. If the quoting is done based on the number of bricks to be incorporated, then a thousand bricks will be quoted in between £350 to £450 which should be completed in a couple of days.

You should however take note that most times, the bricklayer’s cost will depend on the amount of work involved in the project. As a result, a more tedious and challenging project will most definitely cost more than a simpler one. Examples of some difficult projects that’s likely to cost more are hard to reach areas, difficult sites as well as second storeys which are considered to be more challenging than single storey buildings. What’s more? The complexity of the project is also a great cost factor. While some projects are basically direct and straightforward, others involve curves and more complex designs which will ultimately make the cost jump up.

Do Bifold Doors Fold Back Flat?

Bifold doors, also referred to as folding doors, have grown to become a great alternative to the conventional sliding doors. It has become a necessity rather than a luxury for most home and property owners especially in the south east who are in need of more space and a memorable focal point. However, before installing the impressive bifold doors in your home’s doorways, it’s always a wise decision to learn more about bifold doors. In this article, we’ll let you whether or not bifold doors fold back flat.

Generally, bifold doors consists of 3 to 8 door panels, bifold slides and fold back against one another in such a way that they sit flat against one or both walls. However, this depends on how they’re designed, whether they’ve been designed to open either from the side or from the middle. They basically work on what’s popularly referred to as a concertina principle. This style fold principle works in a way that allows the door panels to smoothly fold back flat which totally opens up the room into an open plan masterpiece.

So now that you know that bifold doors fold back flat, you may also be curious to know whether they also open in or out. Depending on your specific requirements, bifold doors can actually open inwards and outwards independently. However, due to the fact that opening bifold doors can take up some essential space, several home and property owners do prefer installing their bifold doors in such a way that allows it to be opened outwards. What’s more? It’s also essential to take into account that opening bifold doors inwards have the potential to drip water onto internal flooring especially for the wet regions.

Does your old TV aerial cable have a cut or tear in line? Well, good news is, you don’t have to discard it. When such problems occur, they can lead to loss of conductivity or interference which results in weak or poor reception or even none at all. With a few easily accessible coaxial repair tools which can be obtained from local stores, repairing your aerial cable can require a much less effort than you think. In this post, we’re going to take you through the TV aerial cable repairing process. Let’s take a look!

• Identify the part of your coaxial cable that needs to be repaired. Incorporate wire cutters to make a clean cut across the damaged cable portion.
• Close the RG-6 labeled groove of the crimping tool an inch down the cable and make a complete cut around the exterior part of the cable.
• Cut the exposed aluminum braiding around the insulation to leave the copper filament above the cut portion which is usually surrounded by a white PVC insulation.
• Using the part of the stripping tool labeled “inner, cut between the insulation down to around 1/3 inch. Once done, twist the stripper around the section to get a clean cut and take off the portion that is cut.
• Identify the copper filament positioned at the middle of the cable and surrounded by insulation and thread it through the twist-on connector’s base.
• Strip the damaged coax cable’s other end and add a twist-on connector to it.
• Use a coupler to connect the two repaired cables. To do this, simply screw one end of the first cable to one side of the cable coupler and do the same to the second cable to the other side of the coupler