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A big benefit to concrete is that you can paint it, making it easy to customise and coordinate with your outside area. However, it’s easy to resurface it too, so if you change your mind or inherit a patio that’s the wrong colour, you don’t need to worry.

Start by cleaning the surface with water and a brush. If you come up against any tough stains, you might need to use a detergent and water mix to remove them. Then you can prepare your resurfacer.

Generally, it’s best to apply resurfacer to a moist surface, although make sure you follow the instructions on the specific product you buy. You’ll need to mix the resurfacer with water, then pour and spread it on with a trowel or brush. You might need to apply multiple coats, and can add texture if you want to make the surface more grippy.

Ensure you protect any expansion joints in your patio with duct tape or weather stripping to stop the resurfacer from filling them in. You can also add a colour agent to your resurfacer before you apply it if you’d like to customise the colour.

The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. If you’re interested in learning how to fit underfloor heating under wooden floor, then you’ve come to the right place! In this step by step guide, we’re going to take you through the process and providing you with all the necessary details at each step of the way. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

1. Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
2. Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
3. Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
4. Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
5. Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
6. Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
7. Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
8. Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
9. Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

Is your bathroom sink damaged or old and looking fragile? If yes, then you’re most likely interested in fitting a new one as soon as possible. So how do you go about the installation of a new bathroom sink? This is one of the most frequently asked questions when it comes to bathroom sinks and for a good reason. The fact is, if you’re DIY competent, then this is a task that shouldn’t give you too many hard times. However, if you’re without a proper training or experience, we’d recommend hiring the services of a plumber to guarantee the best results as save yourself some time and additional money which may result from costly errors. In this guide, you’ll learn the steps to bathroom sink installation.

✓ Tap preparation. Apply a small amount of plumber’s mate putty to the base of the taps to be installed.

✓ Install the taps. Identify the taps holes in the sink and squeeze the taps firmly in place, fit the washers and back nuts to the sink’s underside.

✓ Wipe off excess putty. Use a suitable tool to wipe off excess putty that has been pressed out by the tap.

✓ Install the wastage drain. Fit the wastage drain easily into the sink in such a way that the back and front (not side to side) is faced by the two wastage holes.

✓ Tighten the wastage pipe. Squeeze the wastage pipe in, include the washer on the opposite side as well as the nut. Tighten properly with an adjustable spanner and wipe off excess put using a screwdriver or any suitable tool.

✓ Fit the sink to the wall. Put the bolts in position before hanging the sink. Once done, then bolt the sink to the wall and tighten the nut with an adjustable spanner.

✓ Ensure that it’s level with the help of a spirit level.

External wall insulation works to keep your home cosy and comfy while also helping to cut the energy bills. However with the great benefits also comes great costs, so it’s actually a logical decision to know whether there are grants out there which you’re eligible for to help you handle the cost of the external wall insulation.

There are grants available for external wall insulation, but rarely will you find one that covers the full installation cost. With the help of the government’s Energy Company Obligation (ECO) scheme, a couple of energy companies assist in making your home more energy efficient by offering grants or free insulation. In certain cases whereby you receive particular state benefits, you may as well qualify for a higher grant that’ll cover more of the insulation cost.

However, if your energy supplier doesn’t offer any grant, you need not worry as you can save as much on energy bill after installation. Here’s what insulation can help you save per year on energy bills:

• Floor insulation can help you save within a range of £30 to £75 each year.

• Cavity wall insulation can help you save about £85 to £280 a year.

• Loft Insulation (270mm) can help you save about £135 to £250 a year.

Generally, the amount you’ll be able to save on your energy bills depends mainly on the type and size of your property, as well as how energy efficient it already is without the insulation. In the long run, your external wall insulation will more than give you back your investment on the valuable project through your savings on energy bills. In other words, whether or not you’re eligible for a grant should never stop you from installing an external wall insulation.

It might be possible to fit electrics in your shed, depending on where it is and what it’s made of. You should get in touch with a qualified electrician to find out whether it’s possible. Never attempt to run electrical cable from your house to an outbuilding!

One thing you should know about block paving a drive is that it can be very expensive depending on a number of factors such as the materials to be incorporated, block paving pattern, labour cost as well as the size of the drive in question. However, before you get started it’s always a good idea to obtain multiple quotes to compare the prices and select the most reasonable quote. Here, we’ve provided a breakdown of the block paving cost to ensure that you’ll not get ripped off.

There are three main types of block paving which includes clay blocks, concrete blocks as well as natural stone. If you were to go for complex block paving patterns and extras such as drainage solutions and edging, you may have to pay a significantly higher price. The size of your drive is also a major determinant of your block paving cost. What’s more? The materials you need as well as the contractors you select will all play a key role in the final cost of block paving your drive.

The material cost for the three types of block paving includes: Clay block £70 to £100 per m2, concrete blocks £20 to £60 per m2 and natural stone £50 to £105 per m2. To calculate your total material cost, you’ll need to determine the size of your drive.

The cost of labour for installing block paving is usually within the range of £50 to £100 per square metre. In certain cases, you may also have some waste removal needs. If you’re going to hire a specialist that’ll take a day or two of labour to get the job done, it’ll cost about £150 to £200 per day.

Other additional block paving costs include: hardcore £300, blocks and edgings £1,700, sharp sand £250. kiln-dried sand £250 and skip hire £500.