Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Knottingley.

Most installers will not need you to be at home while they are fitting your windows. It is a good idea to be present though, just in case they have any questions for you and perhaps for your own peace of mind. If you cannot be there, you will need to arrange access to the property and/or agree securing the property at the end of the day.

The short answer is yes, you can definitely have underfloor heating with wooden floor! Now you’re probably thinking wood and heat don’t mix right? Well, that’s true but here, there’s a way around it. The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. So, how do you go about it? In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of installing underfloor heating with wooden floors. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

• Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
• Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
• Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
• Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
• Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
• Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
• Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
• Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
• Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

There are a wide array of smart ring doorbells available in the market today and all coming with detailed installation instructions. Here, we’ll make it clearer to enable you get it done right, the right time and with little stress. With a properly installed ring video doorbell, you’ll be able to identify who’s at the door before opening and even chat with them via your table, PC or Smartphone. And to make it even more interesting, you can easily install a ring doorbell yourself and save some money.

Installation Steps

• Assemble the mounting bracket

Bring out the mounting bracket that comes with your ring video doorbell. You’ll discover a small level within the mounting bracket, put this on the bracket’s slot. Once done, gently line it up to the spot where you want to place your doorbell.

• Determine the pilot holes

Firstly, ensure the bubble found in the level is straight. Then, mark out where the screws will go through.

• Drill the identified pilot hole spots

When drilling, you’ll need not just your drill and drill bit (or a masonry bit, if its a brick), but also your eye and ear protection. Drill the marked out spots to create pilot holes and subsequently hammer in the plastic anchors that comes in the ring doorbell’s pack to help hold your screws in place. Once done, put the bracket on the top and tighten your screws.

• Scan the QR Code

With the use of your phone, scan the special QR code given behind your doorbell to ensure the ring doorbell is only accessible by you and your loved ones.

• Secure the doorbell

Ensure that the bracket is properly in place and attach your doorbell to the mounting bracket. Once done, you can make it safe by using smaller security screws to hold it. Upon completion, your ring doorbell is ready for use - it’s that easy!

1. Unroll your two pieces of artificial grass, ensuring that the pile is running in the same direction. Fold over each piece by about 300m.
2. To get the perfect seam, cut at least 3 tufts back, ensuring that you don’t trim any grass blades.
3. Either remove the backing on your self-adhesive tape and unroll it down the centre of the join, or roll it out ensuring that the shiny side is down then fix at either end with adhesive.
4. Fold over the grass onto the tape and bring each piece together, ensuring there’s a 2-3mm gap at the seam.
5. Where the pile runs over the edge of the seam, fold over the artificial grass.
6. Apply a small amount of adhesive under the edge of the first section of grass with a mastic gun, then add some to the front edge to stick the second piece.
7. Bring the seam together, ensuring that you don’t get any grass blades stuck. Place a plank with some heavy objects on over the join to ensure that it dries securely.

If you get the right size boiler for your business and you get it serviced regularly, your boiler could last up to 15 years. It may even last longer than this, but you’ll find that your boiler begins to become less efficient as it gets older. Also, as technology improves, a boiler older than 15 years may not be the most efficient one on the market.

Insulating a cavity wall should not affect the damp proofing of the wall. All insulation approved for use in cavity walls has been tested to ensure that it does not allow damp to pass through the wall. Some walls which receive a lot of wind driven rain are unsuitable for cavity wall insulation.

Driveways usually sink because they haven’t been laid properly. They may not have been dug deep enough, or the installer might not have used the right materials. This will need to be corrected at the earliest opportunity, although in extreme cases, the driveway may need to be completly be relaid.

You should inspect your roof twice a year, ideally after rain or snow, to see if it’s draining properly. Also in the Spring to check for damage that may of been caused over the winter months that will need to be put right before the next winter. Have an inspection carried out if you are unsure.