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The short answer is yes, you can definitely have underfloor heating with wooden floor! Now you’re probably thinking wood and heat don’t mix right? Well, that’s true but here, there’s a way around it. The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. So, how do you go about it? In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of installing underfloor heating with wooden floors. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

• Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
• Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
• Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
• Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
• Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
• Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
• Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
• Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
• Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

Ad hoc visits from your engineer to fix small issues with your heating system may actually seem cheaper and a lot more affordable, however when a boiler is ripe enough for a change these small issues are always never ending. Over some period of time, these small issues will inevitably get worse and the idea of “mend and make do will be an absolutely false economy. The best course of action in this sort of event is to find a replacement boiler to install as soon as possible. In this article, we’re going to give you some hints that’ll show you when your boiler needs to be replaced. Now let’s take a look!

✓ Insufficient hot water. Here, you’ll have to check the size of your hot water cylinder. It’s crucial to make sure that your boiler is rightly sized to power your heating as well as hot water circuit in line with your demands. You should always seek the advice of a heating expert who can recommend whether to fix or replace the boiler.

✓ Strange noises. It’s normal for components of the boiler to become worn or damaged over time. Replacing the particular component that’s causing the knocking or rattling may seem cost effective at first but more often than not, the noises usually signal a bigger issue which is likely to build up over time. Hence, it’ll be a lot more logical to replace the boiler itself.

✓ Regular repair of your boiler. It’s essential to have your heating system serviced by a Gas Safe engineer on an annual basis. However, when you have to call them more often than once a year for your yearly maintenance, it may be a wise decision to consider getting a replacement.

✓ Other events whereby you may need a new boiler includes when you can’t get the right temperature in your room, when the radiators don’t heat up as they should, when your boiler leaks and if your boiler still has a pilot light.

Your LPG storage tank will need to go outside your property, possibly underground if you have limited space. There are planning rules that restrict where you can put your tank, especially if your property is listed or on designated land. Take a look at our planning permission article to find out more.

Tiling a kitchen wall can seem like an easy task until you get started. Errors made will forever be evident for everyone to see unless you’re prepared to spend some extra bucks. When done right, it can actually be a very satisfying project, but don’t even think about rushing into it. If you lack a proper training or experience, it’s advisable to leave the task to a skilled professional for the best results and to avoid extra costs. This guide is meant to give you a detailed insight into the process and help you avoid possible errors.

• Preparation

✓ Ensure you have the required amount of tiles, adhesive and grout.

✓ Take the tiles measurement and calculate in square metres.

✓ Determine the number of tiles to be used and add about 10% to the total number to cover for possible wastage.

✓ Check to surface to make sure its clean and dry.

• Mark Out The Area To Be Tiled

✓ Mark out the width of the tiles with spacers using a baton of timber.

✓ Position a tile against the bottom-most point and draw a line.

✓ Put a baton along this line and follow this by a vertical line at the wall’s end.

• Install The Tiles On The Kitchen Walls

✓ Apply an even layer of adhesive with a wall trowel on the kitchen’s wall surface.

✓ Place the first tile on the adhesive and apply small pressure, do this for the remaining tiles with similar pressure to ensure its levelled.

✓ Make use of tile spacers to get a uniform space in between.

✓ Leave the adhesive to harden before applying the grout.

• Grouting

✓ Remove the tile space and clear out excess adhesive

✓ Prepare the grout

✓ Make use of a grout float to apply the mixture into the joints.

✓ Let the grout dry up a bit before washing the surface off with a sponge and water.

Most Sun Tunnel Kits are available in sizes from 250mm Diameter to 550mm Diameter. This gives you a good range to choose from depending on the size of the room you are trying to brighten.

• 250mm Sun Tube – Perfect for room sizes up to 10m2. (Hallways, Small Bathrooms)
• 350 – 450mm Sun Tubes – Perfect for rooms 10 to 15m2. Larger Hallways, Stairwells and Bathrooms.
• 550mm Sun Tube – Ideal for rooms 15 – 22m2. Kitchens, Bedrooms, Living Rooms.

Biomass boilers will work with existing central heating systems, presuming this is not decades old, whether they use radiators or under floor heating. A surveyor will check the existing system you have in place before quoting for or recommending a biomass boiler to you.

When your tiles get old and starts to lose its curb appeal and deteriorate, it’s certainly time to have it removed. When it comes to old wall tiles removal, you have two options which is either you do it yourself or call in a professional – with the latter being more advisable. However, if you wish to save some money on installation and carry out the task yourself, then you’ve come to the right place!

Firstly, you have to know that the bonding agent or adhesive usually incorporated to hold a tile against the wall are always very strong or else you’ll find your tiles peeling off. As a result, to have them removed is not the easiest of tasks and bashing them with a hammer, will only have them broken leaving you with the task of having to scrape off the pieces. A better and much easier approach to removing tiles from a wall will be to pry them off one after the other. So how do you go about this? Let’s have a look!

1. Safety First, Then Remove The First Tile
   Wear a protective eye goggle and gloves.
2. Break up the grout around a tile located atthe wall’s centre using a putty knife and hammer.
3. Place the putty knife under the the tile and gently it with the hammer.
4. Remove The Remaining Tiles
   By tapping and prying using the tools - hammer and putty knife, wipe off all the tiles in the vertical row.
5. Once done, continue to detaching the tiles in the adjacent rows until you’re able to open a wallboard section that’s around 12 inches wide and does not obstruct a stud.
6. Use a keyhole blade to poke it through the wallboard.
7. With the help of a reciprocating saw, cut out the wallboard’s section.
8. Cut The Fasteners
   Using a metal-cutting blade, cut te wallboard-holding fasteners. Make sure the fasteners holding the wallboard to the top and bottom plates of the wall are both detached.
9. Remove All Wallboard Sections
   Using a similar approach, gently remove the other sections of the wallboard.
10. Once completed, you can easily sweep the tiles’ broken pieces.
11. Finally, vaccum the grout dust to ensure the work is neatly done.

If you lack a proper training or experience, taking off your tiles from a wall is best left to a skilled professional for the best results and to prevent potential damages which can lead to additional costs.