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You might think that all wooden conservatories are the same. But there are actually lots of differences between them, and some conservatories are better than others. One of the most important factors to consider when you’re looking for a wooden conservatory is the type of wood that it’s made from. Generally, there are two different types to look out for: softwood and hardwood. So what wood should be used for a wooden conservatory?

Softwood conservatories are usually made from European redwood or Siberian larch. These types of conservatories are the cheapest wooden conservatories you can buy because the wood grows much faster than hardwoods. However, due to their soft nature, they may only last 7-15 years, reducing their cost-effectivity.

The best wood to use for a wooden conservatory is a hardwood. The most expensive type is oak, but you get what you pay for – it looks fabulous and it can also be coated with a bug and pest-resistant solution to increase its longevity. If you haven’t got the budget for oak, other hardwood options include Brazilian cedar, idigbo and luan, which are still great choices. Make sure you speak to your conservatory installer about the ‘closeness’ of the wood grains, as close-grained hardwoods are said to be the most suitable for conservatories. You should also check that your supplier has strict control of the quality of the wood so can ensure that it’s been well seasoned and prepared for use in construction.

It can be easy to repair a felt flat roof depending on the problem. If you’ve got an old-style pour-and-roll felt flat roof, you might be starting to run into problems, but even if you have a newer torch-on felt roof, issues can occur. You might find cracks, lifting, leaking flashings or dips and hollows in the felt. Luckily, there are some easy fixes – but the best thing to do to prolong the life of your felt flat roof is to get a professional to look at it.

If your felt flat roof only needs a small repair, you might be able to get away with using a paint-on fix from a tin that you just brush on. However, if you want a more permanent fix, you’ll need a few more tools and supplies.

You can use a patch of torched-on roofing felt over the crack or leak, but if your flat roof is very damaged or wet it might not take it. You can also buy liquid systems for felt roofs, but again, there is a possibility that your roof might not take it. Also most of the high-quality liquid systems are only available for trade customers, so you might be better off asking a roofing pro to do it for you.

The holy grail of home extensions is basically the need for additional space for living as well as leisure. However, before commencing your home extension project, you’d probably want to know just how big your new building can be. In this article, you’ll find the answer to this question which is also frequently asked by many other home or property owners in the UK.

Besides your budget, there are two other major influencing factors that can determine just how much extra room that can be added. These factors include whether you wish to carry out the extension project under Permitted Development rights which is usually for a smaller project or you’d prefer to opt for a larger project which is covered by Planning Permission.

Apart from the limitations in the size of an extension under Permitted Development, the extensions are also a lot more affordable and consumes less time when compared to the extensions under planning permission. So what exactly is the size limit for an extension under Permitted Development and the ones under Planning Permission?

For a single storey extension, the maximum size that can be constructed without having to submit an application for Planning Permission includes:

• An extension should have a maximum length of 6m, if you reside in a terraced home or a semi-detached property.

• Extensions for detached properties can have a maximum length of 8m.

• The extension built must not go beyond half your garden’s area.

• The extension should have a maximum height of 4 metres, but in the event whereby the extension is situated within 2 metres of the boundary of your property, it should not exceed a height of 3 metres.

• The extension should not be higher than the highest part of the existing house’s roof.

A bathroom is not only a pretty big investment, but also one that requires thorough planning and consideration before the work can be kick started. This is a task all homeowners will all have to go through at least once and even more so when things break or become worn too terribly to consider repair. As a result, when it comes to fitting a shower you can be sure to dig a bit deep into your pocket to start and get the project over the line. In general, the cost of your new bathroom tend to vary based on the shower installation company or plumber you choose to hire, your location, the materials required, the type of shower and other furnishings chosen and more. In this post, we aim to give you a good insight into the shower fitting pricing so as to help you help you make informed decisions moving forward.

Generally, a standard shower usually costs within the range of £100 to £120 for installation and this usually takes about 3 hours to complete. For an electric shower, you should expect to incur within the range of £100 to £150 on the plumber and a similar price range for the electrician as well. And for the shower enclosure, you can expect to pay within the range of £150 to £250 for the labour and it’ll take up to 4 hours to complete. You’ll also factor in the taps,tiling, underfloor heating, extractor fan, bath, basin and toilet.

Overall, for a complete renovation of your shower, you can expect to incur within the range of £3000 to £5000 with the average duration of the job being 10 days. Meanwhile for a standard installation (only for bathroom fixtures), this will often cost within the range of £2000 to £2500 with an average job length of around 5 days.

The ridiculous, sprawling TV antennas are now a thing of the past - with the advancement in technology, today’s TV aerials combine both style and function at a price which is affordable. Now, we all want to get a decent signal in rooms without fixed aerials or watch TV on the go, without having to stress too much or pay an exorbitant price. If you’re looking to good TV aerials to purchase and install on your home or property, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’ve selected some of the very best TV aerials around to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!

RGTech Monarch

With an impressive range of 50 miles, this paper-thin and multi-directional antenna is top of the range. It’s able to receive the full spectrum of TV as well as radio signals which implies a clear and noise free 4k and 1080p content. It features a filter which prevents any interference from mobile phone with the signal. What’s more? It also possesses a whooping 15ft, double-coated cable which implies that the antenna can help you get signal in all corners of your home or anywhere you choose to watch TV.

One For All SV9465 Loop

Considering the 15 miles and signal gain of 48Db, this antenna offers a great number of features at a reasonable price. It’s also HD-ready and is able to offer support to content resolutions of up to 4k. The TV aerial uses multiple boosting and stabilization features including Automatic Gain Control to maintain a good signal and avoid dips.

1byone Indoor Freeview Portable TV Aerial

This is an extremely thin TV aerial which can simply be stuck to a window to improve range as well as signal strength. It’s 4k ready and has a range of up to 25 miles which should be no problem as no wall is likely to obstruct the waves given the fact that it’s meant to be stuck to a window.

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

✓ Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

✓ Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

✓ With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

✓ Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

✓ Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

✓ The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

✓ Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

✓ Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

✓ Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

If your old kitchen is due for an upgrade, one of the first things that comes to is the potential cost of a getting replacement. In this post, we’re going to consider the amount a new kitchen is expected to cost. Let’s take a look!

Generally, fitted kitchen prices can be extremely high and even a budget project can cost huge bucks. In addition, you’re even likely to pay more if you’re interesting in getting a designer brand and shiny appliances. So how much will a new kitchen? Well, there’s no simple and direct answer to this question as there are a number of factors that play a major part in the determination of the price. These factors include the shape of the kitchen, the most preferred layout as well as the kitchen’s size.

On the average, a new kitchen will normally be around £8000. You should however note that this price is fitting and VAT inclusive, but excludes appliances and any preparation works that may or may not be required such as plastering walls, removing wallpaper as well as ripping out the old kitchen.

If you wish to keep the costs down, then you might want to set a budget before you start shopping for a new kitchen, know your most preferred kitchen and remove the old kitchen yourself. A good example of DIY effort which can go a long way to save and even make you some bucks is taking out the old cabinets by yourself and selling them off. You’d be amazed that there’ll people who are willing to pay £20 or more for a couple of old cupboards.

With the prices of buying a house skyrocketing, many of us are tempted to building our own house. This is sometimes an excellent choice, but you will first need to understand the costs of building a house from scratch. As per a general estimate, the cost of self-build ranges between £300 per m2 to £3,000 per m2.

As you can see, this is quite a variation in price from lowest to highest. Location is a prime factor in determining the costs. Building a house in London and the South is more expensive compared to other regions. Aside from location, several other factors make up the price.

Self-manage with subcontractors

You hire professionals directly like builders and carpenters. You also buy all the materials yourself allowing you to get the best prices.

Hiring a main contractor with other subcontractors

You will first need a main contractor who will help to create the watertight structure for your house. For the rest of the work, try hiring out subcontractors. Make sure that you buy all the materials yourself to get the best price.

External cladding materials

If you are looking to install other external material other than brick, you will also need to factor in the cost for the same.

Here are some example prices:

• Render on blockwork costs around £25 per m²

• Timber cladding is around £25 per m²

• Hand¬made all-weather tiling costs around £54 per m²

• Rubble walling or flint is around £90 per m²

• Reconstituted stone costs about £48 per m²

• Natural stone is about £75 per m²

Make sure to include these costs when coming up with the estimate.

Roofing materials

Non-standard roofing materials tend to add more to the cost and therefore you will also need to account in for this factor.

Here are some examples:

Welsh slate – £60 per m²

Second-hand slates – £35 per m²

Handmade clay tiles – £65 per m²

Reed thatch – £80/m²

If you choose to add any unique material to your roofing, be sure that you remember to factor in its cost.