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1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.

How Much Is A Landlord Gas Certificate?

Do you know as a landlord in the UK, not only does the law requires you to conduct an annual check on all your gas appliances and chimney, but you’d also have to pay for it? Hence, giving birth to the commonly asked question, how much is a landlord gas certificate? With so many variances in CP12 certificate prices everywhere, it can be so confusing knowing the actual one you’re expected to pay. Just by surfing the internet alone you’d come across loads of ads claiming they can help you with a cheap gas safety certificate only to discover that reverse is the case when you reach out to them. Here, you’ll get to know the real amount you’re expected to pay for the annual checks on your gas appliances and chimney.

First and foremost, let’s look at what a Gas Safety Certificate really is. This is a certificate that’s given out to landlords and property management companies after a check has been carried out on all their gas appliances and chimney. This statutory check is expected to be done every 12 months to ensure the safety of all those who make ue of your rental property. Homeowners living in ther property are not required by the law to conduct annual gas safety check, but it’s highly recommended that you get in touch with a Gas Safety engineer to ensure the safety of both you and your loved ones.

As a landlord in the UK, to get all your gas appliances and chimney inspected by an approved Gas Safety engineer and obtain your Gas Safety Certificate, you’re expected to pay within a range of £55 to £65. However, you should note that this cost will increase depending on the number of gas appliances you have (about 30% increase for each additional gas appliance).

A real headache is having graffiti on brick. This material is porous which enables paint to sink with ease inside all of the surface’s grooves. Unlike wood, they can’t be scraped and if it happens to be an internal wall, it can’t be sand- or water-blasted. Here, chemical and gel masonry stripper are your best bet. And while stripping of the brick is not a complex task, it does involve a number of applications of stripper and multiple scrubbing which makes it very time consuming.

Basically, a fresh and wet paint should be soaked up with am absorbent material without wiping the paint in order to spread the stain. Once done, you can then proceed to apply a suitable solvent like white spirit. After this, wash the area using a degreasing agent taking care in the disposal of the run-off material.

With dried paint, simply scrape off the paint as far as possible and apply a paint removal using the following steps:

• Put on your safety gear like a face mask, safety googles and gloves.
• Apply the paint stripper over the brick wall with a brush starting from a corner at the top of the wall and then working outward and downward.
• Leave for the specified amount of time by the manufacturer. Then start to scrub off the masonry paint stripper beginning at the top of the wall again. Remove as many paints as possible.
• Use rags and warm water to wash the brick wall and allow it to air dry.
• Repeat the process over again to remove every form of stubborn paint that’s left.
• Use a white vinegar to spray the stripped brick wall and wipe off any residue of paint with a brush and rinse with water.

Are you worried about blocked drains? Yes, you probably should! As a homeowner ( with a detached, semi detached or terraced house), all plumbing and drainage issues within your home or even within your property boundary is your responsibility. Hence, you’d might want to consider getting a Homeserve plumbing and drainage cover to help keep your home running smoothly and putting your mind at ease. The only exception here is if the drain in question is a lateral drain which is a common feature in flats. In this situation, it’s only the building managers that would be responsible for the maintenance of the drainage as it’s shared between several homes. Before 2011, the various flats or houses that shares the lateral drain are responsible for its maintenance.

Working with top utility companies for over 2 decades, Homeserve has positioned itself as one of the leading home assistance providers in the United Kingdom. With their top notch services, they’ve been able to make their client’s lives a lot easier and stress free through the provision of a wide array of repair solutions such as drainage, plumbing, heating, electrics and a lot more.

As a homeowner with the responsibility of maintaining the drains and ensuring there’s no block or damage, it’s simply a no brainer to go for a plumbing and drainage cover and more importantly, get good cover. Homeserve are one of the providers but there are a number of others which offer great service at competitive prices. Without an insurance in place, you may just have to break the bank just to have an engineer or plumber to fix any plumbing or drainage issue you might have. So why not give yourself a peace of mind and get a cover today?

If you want to guarantee the comfort of those inside your work environment, getting a commercial HVAC system should be a top priority. And if you already have one installed, knowing the best time to have it replaced rather than repaired will go a long way to save you some huge bucks. For instance, an air conditioning system that’s old and malfunctioning is best replaced due to the fact that all the components are probably weak and can only keep generating series of faults till it finally breaks down beyond repair. When evaluating your air conditioning unit, there are some factors that you’ll need to take into account to save yourself some money and headaches. Let’s take a look!

• Age. If your commercial HVAC system is within 15 to 20 years old and starting to look like a giant rust attached to your building, then its probably time to get a replacement. Also when old, most commercial air con systems are usually much less efficient and will consume more energy which implies higher energy bills.
• Wear and tear. If your system has experienced a significant amount of wear and tear, then its probably not heating or cooling as efficiently as it used to. Depending on the product’s quality as well as the level of maintenance many commercial HVAC system would be overdue for an upgrade by the time they’re about 15 years old.
• Malfunctions. When it comes to heating and cooling systems, some issues are quite easy to fix or resolve while others ( such as a broken furnace fan or refrigerant problems) should be best left to the experts. However, if the malfunctions are becoming more often or serious enough, then you should probably consider getting an upgrade.

Scaffolding, also known as scaffold or staging, is an impermanent construction used to provide sustenance to a work crew and materials to help in the erection, upkeep and mending of structures, bridges and all other man-made constructions. Scaffolds are extensively used on site to get access to altitudes and parts that would be otherwise hard to get to. Hazardous scaffolding has the potential to result in demise or serious accidents. Another major use of scaffolding is in modified methods for formwork and shoring, concert stages, grandstand seating, access/viewing towers, ski ramps and art projects.

There are five main types of scaffolding today. These are Tube and Coupler (fitting) components, manufactured segmental system scaffold apparatuses, H-frame / facade modular system scaffolds, timber scaffolds and bamboo scaffolds.

Each type is made from numerous components which every so often include:

• A base plate or jack: It acts as the scaffold’s load-bearing base.

• The upright component with its connector joins.

• The ledger: The horizontal brace.

• The transom: It is a horizontal load-bearing component which helps to hold the batten or the decking unit.

• The brace diagonal.

• Cross-section bracing component

• The batten or the board decking component: On which the working platform is made.

• The coupler: A fitting which joins components together.

• The scaffold tie: It is used to tie in the scaffold to structures.

• The Brackets: It is used to extend the width of working platforms.

Particular machinery used to support in their usage as a provisional edifice often comprises of heavy-duty weight-bearing transoms, ladders or stairway units for the ingress and egress of the scaffold, beams ladder/unit types used to span obstacles and rubbish chutes used to eliminate undesirable constituents from the scaffold or construction development.

The European Standard, BS EN 12811-1, stipulates performance necessities and procedures of physical and universal design for access and working scaffolds. Requirements specified are for scaffold constructions that depend on the adjacent erections for steadiness.

If you’re considering converting a barn or buying one, you shouldn’t need to worry about it being cold. This is because building regulations dictate that when you convert a barn, you need to insulate it to meet specific standards. However, it’s worth considering its heating system and ceiling heights carefully – some barn conversions are likely to take longer and be more expensive to heat up than others.

When it comes to gas boilers, this is one of the most frequent questions that always pops up and for a good reason. When you invest a considerable amount of money to acquire and install a gas boiler in your business property, it’s only reasonable not only to expect the boiler to warm up your property efficiently, but also to do so for a long period of time. If you’ve just bought or about to get a new gas boiler, it’s likely you won’t have to worry about getting a replacement for a lengthy period of time. Several commercial gas boilers will last for anywhere between 10 to 15 years on the average. However in the event whereby you have an existing one that’s fast approaching the end of it’s useful life, then you should know the time go get a new gas boiler is just around the corner, and the earlier you make the purchase, the better (to avoid any surprise breakdowns that’ll leave your home super uncomfortable).

Just like any other home appliance, it’s a fact that an older gas boiler ( especially those that have been installed over a decade ago) are significantly less efficient that the new modern ones. When the older versions were manufactured is a completely different time to now as both technology and climate concerns are wide apart. So when your existing boiler is approaching the end of it’s useful life, it’ll be wise to start saving up to cover the cost of getting a new one. However, if it’s only about 5 years ago your boiler was installed, it’s highly likely to still be very efficient.