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If you’re thinking about making improvements to your home, it’s only reasonable to become familiar with the ins and outs of the requirements to make the project a success. Not just the cost involved to complete the project, but also the duration it’ll take to complete the job and lots more. When it comes to the installation of wooden flooring, there’s a need to find out whether or not an underlay is required for the task. In this article, we’re going to consider this in order to ensure that you’re on the right track. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, underlays are common with carpets as they allow for an even surface with no lumps and bumps. It also provides a deeper barrier between the carpet and the floor as carpets, themselves, aren’t particularly thick enough to provide adequate comfort when walking on them. Underlay also helps improve insulation which in turn, helps cut down your energy bill. So, are underlays also needed with wooden flooring?

In general, wooden flooring does not really need an underlay. This is due to the fact that they’re perfectly comfortable to walk on without the need to add an extra padding underneath. However, the subfloor will have to be made prior to the installation, as a result, an underlay is needed at all there. With that in mind, it’s highly recommended to make use of an underlay when installing a boarded floor to a wooden subfloor mainly due to the fact that it’s able to provide a much-improved insulation. When it comes to wooden flooring, it’s always best to go for quality rather than looking for ways to cut corners. If you’re able to go for the best project with professional installation and little extras like undelay, you’d notice and enjoy the long lasting nature of your wooden flooring immediately after installation.

When it comes to conservatory air conditioning, a huge mistake you’d not like to make is to purchase and install a wrong sized HVAC system. When that happens, not only will you be left unsatisfied, but you’d also end up incurring much more expenses than necessary. If you go for an AC unit that’s too small, it won’t be powerful enough to cool your conservatory as you would like. However, when you go ahead to select an oversized AC unit, your conservatory would be cooled relatively quick but will leave the air in the structure with excess humidity and consume more electricity as it’s going to cycle on and off which will ultimately cost you more money. In other words, it’s always a smart decision to take your time to calculate the right air conditioner size for your conservatory before you make a purchase decision. So how exactly can you go about the determination of the appropriate HVAC unit size for your conservatory? Let’s take a look!

• Take the measurement of the conservatory’s square footage using a tape measure. If the space isn’t rectangular or square in shape, simply divide the conservatory in section comprising both squares and triangles which you can measure.
• Calculate the conservatory’s square footage. For a square or rectangle, simply multiply the length by the width. However if your space is in another shape, you can determine the square footage of the triangular sections by multiplying 0.5 by length and width, and the sum each of the sections.
• Determine the cooling capacity required for the space in question which is measured in British Terminal Units (BTUs)/hour. For more information to determine the BTUs needed depending on your conservatory size, simply visit the United States Department for Energy Star.

The number of hours you would have to invest and the number of holidays you will have will be mentioned on the contract before you undertake a project. It is very common that of you to be asked of work longer than your shift. It is completely your choice if you want to work more hours, but your employer has no right to force it on you.

There are certain guidelines that establishes the maximum number of hours an individual should labour each week. In general, the maximum number of hours for someone not yet 18 years old, is 40 hours in a week, or eight hours a day. For workers who are aged 18 or above, the number of hours increases to 48 hours a week.

You can contact the environmental health department of your local council or the National Health and Safety Executive (0845 345 00 55) for more information and advice about working hours. According to the law, all workers have the right to a holiday of at least 5.6 weeks (or a total of 28 days of paid leave, if you happen to work five days in a week).

Your holidays may be extended than the minimum right, but it is dependent on your employer. The critical things you should keep in mind about holiday rights are:

• holiday entitlement starts as soon as you begin work;

• your employer has a complete say in when you can take your holiday;

• for holidays you get normal pay;

• after completing the job, you will be compensated for any unused holidays.

In order to meet the requirements for the right to once a year leave you need to be categorized as a worker. You will have no statutory right to paid annual leave if you’re self-employed.

You, as a worker will not have a statutory right to paid leave on bank and public holidays. If you are given a paid leave on a bank or public holiday, this can count towards your 4.8 weeks minimum leave privilege. However, you may be provided with a paid leave on bank and public holidays in addition to your annual leave entitlement, if your employer chooses so.

Great Britain has a total of eight permanent bank and public holidays, whereas, Northern Ireland has ten.

There is no automatic right to an enhanced pay rate that you can exercise if you work on a bank or public holiday. Your remuneration depends on your contract of employment.

After fitting your new windows, your installer should take away and dispose of your old windows. If you want to keep them, just let your installer know before they start work. The UPVC frames are melted down and used on the unseen parts of new windows. Aluminium frames are re-smelted and wooden are broken down and used as chipboard.

One major problem several home and property owners in the UK and across the globe would rather prefer to avoid is blocked sewer pipes or drains. These blockages can spring up when you least expect and if left untreated, can result in water leakages from your sewer pipes which is capable of damaging your home or business facility. In extreme cases with severe blockages, it can lead to burst pipes which will be even more expensive to repair. If you’re looking for safe and effective ways to clear a blocked sewer pipe, here are some of the primary options that are available to you.

• Boiling water. If you want a quick and easy fix of your blocked sewer pipe, then this is for you. Simply pour some quantity of boiling water into the drain. In several cases, this will cause the particles causing the blockage to dissolve or loosen without having to resort to more drastic measures. However, it’s advisable to only use this method on either metal or ceramic pipes. Use hot and not boiling water on PVC pipes to prevent heat from loosing its joints.
• DIY Natural Cleaner. To use this method, simple create a DIY cleaner by incorporating bicarb soda (baking soda) and white vinegar. Pour the baking soda into the sewer pipe and follow it with the vinegar. Once done, cover the sewer pipe to ensure the mixture does not bubble out of the pipe. In some cases, you may need to repeat the process a number of times to make sure that the blockage is properly removed. After completion, simply flush your sewer pipes down with hot water.
• Plunger. This is a very common option that home owners use in clearing their blocked drains. Firstly, cover all overflow spouts before you start to plunge to get a strong seal. The strong up and down pressure produced by the plunger can go a long way to clear any blockages to ensure your pipes flow uninterruptedly again.

If you’re considering giving your home a quick facelift, laying of paving slabs for your outdoor living spaces might be a great way to start. It can be installed in some many parts of your home’s exterior from the pathways to driveways and from the yards to the patios. With proper training and experience, laying paving slabs is a very easy and quick process. However, the issue here is, how do you calculate the number of paving slabs you need? In this step by step guide, you’ll find all the information needed to help you get started. Once you’re able to get the accurate number of paving slabs, do ensure to include extras that’ll cover up for possible errors or damages.

Just like any other measurement task, it’ll be a lot easier when you know how as well as when you have the right tools to use for the job. To get started, you’ll need a tape measure, pen or pencil, pegs, string, hammer, paper and calculator.

• Draw a sketch of the area. This sketch will take note of the area’s length and width.

• Using strings and pegs, mark out the area to be paved

• Using a tape measure, take a measurement of the length and width of the space along the string lines and note them on the sketch.

• If the area is a drive make sure that the paved area is wide enough to accommodate the cars intended

• Multiply the length of the space by the width to get the area of the space.

• Once calculated, divide the total area of the space by the area of the single slab. This will give you an accurate number of the paving slabs you’ll require to complete your project.

If you want to guarantee the comfort of those inside your work environment, getting a commercial HVAC system should be a top priority. And if you already have one installed, knowing the best time to have it replaced rather than repaired will go a long way to save you some huge bucks. For instance, an air conditioning system that’s old and malfunctioning is best replaced due to the fact that all the components are probably weak and can only keep generating series of faults till it finally breaks down beyond repair. When evaluating your air conditioning unit, there are some factors that you’ll need to take into account to save yourself some money and headaches. Let’s take a look!

• Age. If your commercial HVAC system is within 15 to 20 years old and starting to look like a giant rust attached to your building, then its probably time to get a replacement. Also when old, most commercial air con systems are usually much less efficient and will consume more energy which implies higher energy bills.
• Wear and tear. If your system has experienced a significant amount of wear and tear, then its probably not heating or cooling as efficiently as it used to. Depending on the product’s quality as well as the level of maintenance many commercial HVAC system would be overdue for an upgrade by the time they’re about 15 years old.
• Malfunctions. When it comes to heating and cooling systems, some issues are quite easy to fix or resolve while others ( such as a broken furnace fan or refrigerant problems) should be best left to the experts. However, if the malfunctions are becoming more often or serious enough, then you should probably consider getting an upgrade.

How To Plaster A Ceiling

Generally, plastering is a very tricky and time consuming job which usually require lots of efforts and practice to get right - with that in mind it gets even a lot trickier when it comes to ceiling plastering.

However, when you’re able to acquire the right know-how as well as tools, ceiling plastering can be completed by any confident DIYer enthusiast without the need to call in a professional. However, if you lack the needed confidence to pull off this task, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll take you through the ceiling plastering process.

You’ll need the following materials to get started: plaster, mixing bucket and paddle, plasterer’s float, plasterer’s towel, bucket trowel, protective gear, bucket of clean water and wide brush.

✓ Prepare the area. When it comes to plastering a ceiling it’s almost unavoidable to leave a mess around and no matter how you do it, your plaster will drop on the floor. Therefore you have put drop sheets on the floor, cover the furniture and put thing you don’t want to get dirty out of the way.

✓ Prepare the ceiling to be plastered. Sand down the uneven patches on the ceiling. Once done, wash the ceiling with a sponge and warm soapy water while also removing all cobwebs as well. Leave the surface to dry once completed.

✓ Mix the plaster or buy a premix plaster. To mix the plaster, simply use equal parts of plaster and water for mixing the plaster,

✓ Plaster the ceiling. Apply a little quantity of plaster to the edge of your trowel and try to spread it in rows to do the job without much hassle. Ensure that the thickness of the coat is thin and even throughout the application. The rough edge of the trowel should be used for the spreading as it’ll help you create scrapes or scratches in the plaster.

✓ Sand the surface