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Although we advocate non-removal of trees, but we also know for a fact that this isn’t always possible especially when it involves safety challenges or damage to property. If you’re looking to remove a tree on your property, then you should probably confirm whether or not you’d require a council approval.

In the UK, if the tree you want removed has a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) placed on it, then before you’ll be able to perform any sort of work to the tree ( be it cutting a branch or felling/ removing the tree), you must obtain a permission from the council.

The Tree Preservation Order is created by local planning authorities such as a district, borough or national park with the aim of providing adequate protection to trees which provide amenity values to the public. Any act to the TPO protected tree such as cutting down, topping, lopping, uprooting or wilful damage considered a criminal offence. In other words, if the tree on your property is visible and is enjoyed by the public then there’s a possibility that there’s a TPO placed on it. To confirm whether or not this is the case, you can reach out to your local council’s tree officer for more information.

You will need to fill out an application form and submit to your local authority in order to request permission of remove a tree. In the event whereby you happen to reside in a Conservation Area, the same rules applies as TPO-placed trees but you don’t necessarily need to have TPO placed on them.

If the tree is in your garden without a TPO placed on it and you do not live in a Conservation Area, then you would not need to apply for permission to have it removed.

How Deep Is A Septic Tank Buried?

Septic tanks may be an unknown concept to a lot of individuals in town and cities, but to those in the rural areas where certain things are unavailable, septic tanks are a necessity. After all, modern amenities such as appropriate plumbing is something we all need to live a comfortable and conveniently lifestyle.

If you happen to be interested in knowing more about the septic tank concept, you just moved into a house with a septic tank already built in or perhaps you want to have a septic tank system installed on your property, then you may likely want to know just how deep septic tanks are buried. Regardless of what the case may be, being aware of the depth of your septic tank can be a very tricky affair given the circumstances and even more so, when you’re ignorant of the positioning of the lids.

When it comes to the depth of septic tank systems, the general rule of thumb is that they should be buried within the range of four inches to four feet underground.

If you’re more particular about locating where your septic tank is built in, there are a few easy ways to find out. Firstly, you can let your sewer pipes lead you in. Generally, the tank as well as drain field are normally fitted parallel to the sewer line which extends from your home. Secondly, you can also look for visual clues to check if there’s either septic tank risers or clean out ports that is coming out from the ground. This way, you’ll able to tell right away where the septic tank system is located underground. However, if there are no visual clues then you can make some intelligent guesses. Simply take a look at your building’s piping and conditions of the property to have a good idea of where the tank is buried.

If you’d like to hire a residential architect, but have limited funds, there are several things you can try to reduce their quote.

Firstly, you don’t necessarily need to hire them for project management – you could just ask them to do the design. This will mean you’ll have to do some extra donkey work, but you could choose between finding a cheaper professional to do your project management or simply doing it yourself.

There might also be other architectural services that you can cut down on. Some professionals offer extras like landscape, interior and detailed joinery design. If you can do without any of these, this will help to reduce the overall cost.

You could also think about scaling down your project. Lots of residential architects work out their fees as a percentage of the total construction cost of your project. Lower the cost of this, and your fees might go down too.

There’s a huge range of different types of loft conversions. The most common are dormer and skylight or Velux conversions. There are also hip to gable and mansard conversions. The type of loft conversion that’s most suitable for your property will depend on the style of roof and the size of your loft.

Being smart critters, a rodent infestation of a garden can cause the owner a lot of problems. Rats are pests bringing about a wide range of health hazards. They’ll camp in your compost, eat away your fruits and vegetables, gnaw through fences, containers and planters and even spread harmful diseases to humans. The wild rats can bite or even scratch when approached and will seek shelter anywhere possible like in your greenhouses, shed and even in your home. And worse still, they reproduce quickly as a female rat can give birth to six litters annually with up to 12 pups. Therefore, if left unattended to,an unwelcome visit can soon become an infestation in next to no time.

In order to get rid of rats, you can start by thinking like one. Like any other mammal, they need food, water and shelter to survive and thrive. Removing one or all these three things can effectively help you get rid of rats in your garden. Generally, there are several ways to get rid of rats which can be natural without the use of poison and artificial, with the use of poison.

If you wish to use the natural approach, you can try using peppermint oil or laying of traps. Rats are known to hate peppermint and it’s also alleged to mask their pheromone trails. Simply soak cotton wool balls in peppermint oil and position them strategically through out the garden. The second natural approach is more of a trial and error case as rats are always very suspicious and it’s possible your traps fail to catch any unless you’re very cunning with the placement.

The most effective method is, however, the use of poison to get rid of rats. Simply mix the poison with food in small quantities and place at strategic locations throughout your garden to get rid of the rats, However, this must be done with great care.

A double house extension is basically a construction to any aspect of your house that elevates up to offer two floors of space. It can be structured to suit your existing home in two storeys or as a side wing on a taller property. If you’re considering building a double house extension, then estimating the cost is a very important task to do before commencing the project. In this article, we’ll give you an idea of the cost of a double house extension so you can estimate yours accordingly.

The double house extension cost depends on several factors that’s specific to your home as well as your design choice. These includes:

• Location of your property. Places like London and the southeast will generally cost more than the other regions due to higher demands.

• Accessibility of the site. The ease of your site’s accessibility also plays a key role in the price.

• Size of the extension. The more the extension’s size in footprint and square metres, the higher the possible costs.

• Materials used in making the roof as well as the complexity of the roof design.

• Your choice of finishing. These includes flooring window and door frames, glazing, underfloor heating and roof lights.

• Your property’s soil type. Different types of soil requires varying treatments as well as materials to develop solid foundations.

Constructing a double house extension is a quite simple build in terms of technicality when its to the side or rear of your house as this can also help you save some money. Generally, considerably expanding your home’s space by building a double house extension will cost within the range of £1,500 per m2 to about £2,800 per m2.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

1. Hang a plumb bob from the outlet to the drain to use as a guide while you draw several marks on the wall with a pencil to show you where the downpipe will run.
2. Join the marks up with a straight edge, creating a line to show where the centre of the downpipe will be.
3. Position a downpipe clip at the top of wall, in the centre of the pencil line. Mark the position of its fixing holes on the wall. If you need an offset bend, put a downpipe clip directly below the bend.
4. Repeat the process down the wall. Make sure there is no more than 1.8 metres between pipe clips.
5. Refer to the guttering manufacturer’s instructions to see which drill bit is required. Use a drill to drill the fixing holes and insert wall plugs.
6. Fit the first piece of downpipe starting from the outlet and moving towards the drain.
7. If you need to add more downpipe, join the two pieces with a pipe socket and clip. Leave a 10mm gap between the end of the pipe and the bottom of the pipe socket, because it will probably expand. Then attach a pipe clip over the joint.
8. Continue attaching pipe clips down the length of the downpipe.
9. If you need to, fit a downpipe show to direct the water into the drain. Attach a downpipe clip directly below the socket of the shoe.