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Are you worried about blocked drains? Yes, you probably should! As a homeowner ( with a detached, semi detached or terraced house), all plumbing and drainage issues within your home or even within your property boundary is your responsibility. Hence, you’d might want to consider getting a Homeserve plumbing and drainage cover to help keep your home running smoothly and putting your mind at ease. The only exception here is if the drain in question is a lateral drain which is a common feature in flats. In this situation, it’s only the building managers that would be responsible for the maintenance of the drainage as it’s shared between several homes. Before 2011, the various flats or houses that shares the lateral drain are responsible for its maintenance.

Working with top utility companies for over 2 decades, Homeserve has positioned itself as one of the leading home assistance providers in the United Kingdom. With their top notch services, they’ve been able to make their client’s lives a lot easier and stress free through the provision of a wide array of repair solutions such as drainage, plumbing, heating, electrics and a lot more.

As a homeowner with the responsibility of maintaining the drains and ensuring there’s no block or damage, it’s simply a no brainer to go for a plumbing and drainage cover and more importantly, get good cover. Homeserve are one of the providers but there are a number of others which offer great service at competitive prices. Without an insurance in place, you may just have to break the bank just to have an engineer or plumber to fix any plumbing or drainage issue you might have. So why not give yourself a peace of mind and get a cover today?

The most serious form of fungal decay is dry rot which occurs when the moisture levels of a timber is about 20 percent. It targets timber in buildings and feeds off the part of the wood which gives it its strength.it is able to produce moisture through the digestion of timber and as a result, does not require any source of moisture to spread. Once the dry rot is able to spread, it can severely impact and compromise the structural integrity of the house or building. If you think you may have dry rot on your building, the best solution would be to call on a professional to conduct a survey of your premises and have it treated as soon as possible if positive. If the dry rot is not identified and treated as soon as possible, you may have to remove and replace all the affected timber later on. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of treating dry rot by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• The initial treatment stage of dry rot is to identify the moisture source and have it repaired. Once done, you’ll have to ascertain the full extent of the dry rot outbreak. To achieve this, simply open up the affected area by removing the plaster and render in all directions while also removing flooring and lifting floorboards. Once done, you should be in the best position to determine the full extent of the infected timbers.
• Proceed to cutback the timbers in-situ to a minimum of 500mm beyond the last signs of fungal growth or the strands of hyphae.
• Remove all fruiting bodies and detectible spores. Clean the wall areas to eradicate surface growth using a stiff brush if necessary.
• Replace the timber with pre-treated timber.
• Treat the new and old timber with a dual purpose dry rot treatment fluid and sterilise the masonry.

Can You Plaster Over Tiles?

Yes, it’s absolutely possible to plaster over tiles but just because is possible doesn’t mean you should. Plastering over tiles is an option but it’s not recommended by experts due to several reasons. A good example is the fact that a tiled environment is in no way a suitable environment that can serve as a good bonding surface for a plaster. For the success of a plastering project, there’s the need for the surface to be able to bond to the PVA base coat. Due to fact that most tiles are slippery in nature and also lack of the ability to be able to absorb moisture, the PVA base coat layer will not be able to bond to the tiled surface, which will ultimately make for a weak surface upon the application of the plaster. Consequently, the plaster will easily flake and fall from the wall.

The inability to drill into the tiled wall surface after plastering is one of the major disadvantages that also arises when you decide to plaster over tiled surfaces. Most tiled surfaces are found in kitchens and bathrooms which are going to need appliances such as sinks, lavatories, kitchen counters and lots more. These appliances are designed to be installed on solid surfaces which would not be an easy task to carry out on tiles knowing there would definitely be great cracks or damages.

The best tip you’ll get if you’re considering to plaster on a tiled surface, is that detaching tiles from a surface can easily be done with a hammer and chisel, and that would save you a host of problems later in the future. However, if you still wish to plaster on your tiled walls, then you best bet would be to get a Blue Grit bonding agent. It works better than PVA and only needs one coat.

Being a strong and durable product requiring little maintenance and expected to last over 2 decades, it’s little wonder resin is now a popular material amongst homeowners in the UK to build their driveways. However, there’s always the issue of the driveway fading, cracking or even becoming worn and tired. So is it possible to repair resin driveways? The answer is yes, a resin driveway can be repaired, however the best approach to use largely depends on the issue being faced. As a confident DIYer it’ll be very easy to do, but if you lack the confidence then calling in a professional for help would be a better option. So let’s take a look at how you can repair your resin driveways.

For cracks, the best reparation approach would be to chisel it out. Once done, then you can proceed to breaking the stones to form a rough edge. It’s important to make sure that the matrix of the stone remains unaffected. Make a new mixture of resin bound stone and pack it in tightly to the gap. While doing this, we’ll recommend making use of a plastic trowel to avoid burnishing. This fresh mixture will then create a smooth and perfect surface by interlocking with the edges. You can follow similar procedure for patches but these are larger holes or damages than cracks and as the name suggests are mostly likely to remain noticeable but will prevent further crumbling of your resin driveway.

For homeowners, who aren’t so keen about the patch repairs, you can opt for an overlay especially in the event whereby the majority of the surface has failed. Although many usually shy away from this approach because of the perceived high expenses, but the fact is that the approach is actually cost effective as you won’t have the need to spend more money in the long run.

It’s possible to paint your artex ceiling if you want to smarten it up or make it a different colour.

If it’s never been painted before, you’ll need to paint it with a PVA-based solution or water-thinned paint layer to start with. You may want to scrape or sand off any loose or peeling patches beforehand, but only do this if you’re sure that the artex doesn’t contain any asbestos.

Once you’ve done this, follow with two coats of your paint of choice – ideally an emulsion. If your artex ceiling has been painted before then you can paint directly without priming. However, if you’re painting over a particularly bold colour with a lighter one, you might want apply a layer of white paint first.

The A-G scale refers to the energy efficiency of your boiler. G-rated boilers are the least efficient, and give you less heat and hot water for your money. Installing an A-rated boiler will reduce your energy bills and carbon emissions. Don't compromise on cheaper, lower rated boilers, you will save yourself more money longer term with an A-rated model.