Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Denny.

Render serves two basic functions. One is it’s protective qualities as render acts as waterproof for the wall which enables them breathe by allowing water vapour move from the inside to the outside of the structure while also working to prevent water or rain from finding its way inside the structure. While the second function is the decorative qualities as render is able to provide the structure with a fine finish and colour to make the building a lot more appealing and correcting faults in line and level in the masonry.

If you wish to apply render on your external wall, you’d probably be wondering just how thick the render should be to perfectly serve both of functions. In this article, we’re going to take a look at just that!

For a render thickness, the British Standard Wind Driven Rain Index has come up with 4 ratings which include Sheltered, Moderate, Severe as well as Very Severe. An area with Very Severe rating include South West England. This rating implies that the thickness of the render in this area should be increased to at least 20mm for a direct one coat render applications as well as 5 to 6 external wall insulation base coat applications. And if you happen to reside within one mile of the coast, it’s strongly recommended you incorporate an extra repellent protection like Paraguard AG from Parex.

In general, render that’s prepared on site with cement and sand should be have a minimum of 20mm to 25mm thickness. Although, it should be noted that the quality of the render is based on quality of the sand incorporated, the design mix as well as being largely dependent on how good the mixing technique from the applicator is. The most common reasons why traditional renders fails is due to both poor mixing ratios and low quality materials used.

Are you currently considering installing a ground source heat pump in your home? Well, a heat pump can be a great alternative when compared to gas or oil boiler, however, you may also be worried about the operating efficiency of this heating system if you live in a cold climate or during the winter months. However, in reality, there’s nothing to be worried about!

A ground source heat pump works by incorporating the natural heat that’s typically found in the ground or groundwater. In other words, this type of heat pump doesn’t make use of fossil fuels to heat your home while it can also minimize carbon emissions that may pose a huge risk to the environment. This makes a popular option especially amongst home and property owners who are very environment conscious and prefers to utilize more renewable sources of energy.

However in a place such as the UK where the temperature can drop to around -10℃ during the winter months, it may get you thinking whether there’ll be enough heat in the ground to warm up your home. Let’s have a look.

In the UK, the temperature of the ground doesn’t normally fall less than 10℃. This is still enough heat for the ground source heat pump to warm up your home. In other words, as long as you purchase the right one, your ground source heat pump will continue to work just fine during the cold months. Due to the fact that every heat pump varies, you will need the right equipments so as to ensure the heat pump works well throughout the winter. This is usually not an issue in the UK, but same can not be said of colder places like Canada and North America.

If you just acquired an electric shower or thinking about getting one soon, one of the first things that comes to mind is who to call on for help to handle its installation. Well, if you’re confused about the perfect tradesperson you’re certainly not alone! As we’re always told that electrics and water don’t mix, so who do you call when buying an electric shower? Is it a plumber, an electrician or probably someone who with a knowledge of both? Well, you’d find the answer here as we’ve created this post specifically to resolve this concern once and for all.

Refurbishing and renovating any part of one’s home always tends to be a tricky and daunting prospect and without a single doubt, the bathroom is not an exception. With a wide array of things to put into consideration such as plumbing as well as bathroom electrical safety, it always pays to have all your bathroom related questions answered before you go ahead to employ a tradesperson.

Being fully aware any task involving electrical works can be very dangerous, anyone that takes on a job such as fitting an electric shower must be qualified to work with electrics safely. This is referred to in the building regulations sections which is termed as part P dealing with domestic electricals, as such you may hear tradespeople term themselves as being “Part P qualified. What this implies is that they’re registered with a competent persons scheme like ELESCA OR NICEIC to self certify their work. Due to the high risk involved in their field, all electricians should be able to self certify their work, whereas only some plumbers should also be able to do the same. As a result, dedicated bathroom fitting companies should possess individuals who can deal with the plumbing, electrics as well as tasks such as tiling.

If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:

• Construction materials

• Flooring

• Light fittings

• Kitchen units and worktops

• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials

To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.

Do you wish to have your residential or commercial space tiled? With a plethora of benefits that comes with a tiled floor, it’s little surprise more and more home and property owners are going for this special flooring type. Not only are they able to improve the curb appeal of any property, but they’re also resistant to moisture helping to increase the durability of the house – be it wall or floor tiles.

Tiling a floor is not the simplest of tasks and should be done with utmost care and attention to details. If you lack the confidence to pull this off, we’d recommend you hire a reputable professional who can guarantee the best outcome the first time.  In this guide, you’ll find processes involved in floor tiling to help put you in the right direction.

Floor Tiles Installation Procedures

1. Floor Preparation
   The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more. Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.
2. Ensure the floor is dry and clean.
3. Pattern Layout
   Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.
4. Adhesive Preparation
   Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent). The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.
5. Tiles Placement
   Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel. Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.
   
   Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.
6. Tiles Cutting
   Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.
7. Grout Application
   Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float. After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes. Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.
8. Grout Sealing
   Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application. Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.

Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.

In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.

A sudden appearance of graffiti on your property carried out by some vandals can be a real concern. Since you know it’s your responsibility to have it cleaned, the question becomes would you rather call in a professional or have it cleaned yourself. While calling in a professional may be costly, removing graffiti by yourself won’t be easy either especially if it’s done on brick. Bricks are known to be porous which enables paint to sink with ease inside all of the surface’s grooves. Unlike wood, they can’t be scraped and if it happens to be an internal wall, it can’t be sand- or water-blasted. So, what is the best way to remove graffiti?

Well, your best bet would be to incorporate chemical and gel masonry stripper. And while stripping of the surface is not a complex task, it does involve a number of applications of stripper and multiple scrubbing which makes it very time consuming.

Basically, a fresh and wet paint should be soaked up with am absorbent material without wiping the paint in order to spread the stain. Once done, you can then proceed to apply a suitable solvent like white spirit. After this, wash the area using a degreasing agent taking care in the disposal of the run-off material.

With dried paint, simply scrape off the paint as far as possible and apply a paint removal using the following steps:

• Put on your safety gear like a face mask, safety googles and gloves.
• Apply the paint stripper over the brick wall with a brush starting from a corner at the top of the wall and then working outward and downward.
• Leave for the specified amount of time by the manufacturer. Then start to scrub off the masonry paint stripper beginning at the top of the wall again. Remove as many paints as possible.
• Use rags and warm water to wash the wall and allow it to air dry.
• Repeat the process over again to remove every form of stubborn paint that’s left.
• Use a white vinegar to spray the stripped wall and wipe off any residue of paint with a brush and rinse with water.

For 2 metre solid fences it’s recommended to use concrete posts to support each panel. For smaller 1 metre fences or for picket fences with gaps between each timber piece you can use timber posts. A fencing contractor will be able to advise you on the best materials from the length and requirements of a new fence.