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A leaky plumbing making some irritating sounds is not something anyone would love to live with. Whether your toilet is broken and needs to be replaced or perhaps you simply want a new modern toilet and is more visually appealing and up to date, like most DIY projects, the cost of fitting a new toilet is based on a number of factors. These factors the products or materials needed, the cost of the labour as well as the type of the toilet you’d like to install. It’s also important to note that a toilet replacement job may run the risk of extra materials being required for completion. Although a simple toilet differs in price ranging between £30 to about £100. For a cistern toilet, you should be ready to incur within the range of £100 to £300. What’s more? If a new inflow and outflow are required you should expect to incur an additional £30 for a top quality pipe. Also, pre-wall mounting models are usually more costly and under specific conditions, it may need some tiles which will also increase the costs.

Overall, the average price you should expect to incur for a professional plumber to install a toilet is within the range of £180 to £700 based on your preferred type of toilet and the need or otherwise of a pipework. Normally, most plumbers charge about £100 to £300 for each job based on the pipework that’s required. In order to minimize costs, you can also decide to sell off your existing toilet yourself as disposal prices have increased.

The main difference in price is primarily going to be the quality of the toilet that you opt for. Therefore, in order to lower your costs you can explore budget toilet options.

If you’re going through new constructions or renovations and looking to change your old front door and install a brand new composite door, then you’re at the right place. Composite door fitting can be a DIY project but it’s essential to have the necessary training and experience before commencement. If not, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional to guarantee the best results and save yourself some time and money.Here, we’ll give a good insight into the composite door fitting process.

To get started, here are some of the tools that may be required - tape measure, hammer, stanley knife, crowbar, chisel, saw. Silicone sealant gun, spirit levels, electric drill ( including the hammer section), rubber mallet and 6mm socket spanner.

lPreparation

• Remove the existing door by rounding up the door frame firstly with a knife to reduce the possible damage to the wall.

• Cut through the door jambs.

• Remove each in two separate sections.

• Ensure the opening is level without any screws, mastic and filler.

lAlign Your Composite Door

• Ensure the sill of the door is level and flat.

• Make sure the frame is square and plumb in both planes.

• Bridge the cavity of the wall and cover the DPC

• Ensure that the frame is square. If not, your composite door won’t function as it should.

lInstall Your Composite Door

• Place the door in the frame.

• Hold the frame firmly in position with wedge packers

• Make sure the packers are positioned close to where the fixing will be placed.

• Make sure the jams are square and plumb in all planes by using a long spirit level.

• Secure the frame to the brickwork with the use of a drill.

• Place the fixings at the top and bottom of each hinge as well as each of the lock keep.

• Top fixings should be fitted 150mm and 250mm from each corner.

A patio is an outdoor space which can be used for a variety of stuffs which includes fun time with family and friends, reading time or just relaxing as the fresh breeze blows. With all these benefits and more, it’s becomes more obvious that there’s a need to keep your patio in a tip top condition at all times. If otherwise, you may not be able to enjoy your patio to your satisfaction and probably, for as long as you would want. You simply have to provide it with a regular maintenance which involves inspecting and identifying the damages that needs to be repaired before it gets out of hand. Fortunately, the minor repairs can be done by yourself if you’re confident enough. However, for bigger damages it’s advisable to call in a professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the patio reparation process.

✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing the problem piece gently and carefully. If there’s a piece you think can still be useful, store it in the re-use pile or you can start a new one. Once you’re done removing the pieces, the next thing to do would be to start removing anything that’s unwanted from the damaged area like debris, unwanted soil etc, and start sand fitting with some fresh sand. This should be levelled out to ensure there’s no bumps.

✓ With the sand down, you can start by putting the pieces back in together. This should be done gently to avoid any further damage. Do this until your patio

✓

A typical Homebuyer Report or Building Survey Report doesn’t usually involve checking for asbestos. Your surveyor may let you know that there are certain parts of the property that are likely to contain asbestos, but they won’t do any testing. This means that, if you want to be sure about whether a property contains asbestos, you need to get an asbestos survey.

• The glass has smashed from an impact such as a stone hitting it from a lawnmower
• You have been broken into and suspects used the window to gain entry
• The glass has blown (lost its airtightness) from constant water build-up around the seals, which is common in bathrooms
• Extreme weather or pressure changes have caused a crack

1. Including the beading (the plastic and rubber seals around the windows that can be removed), measure the width of the window frame.
2. Do the same for the height of the window, making sure you include the beading.
3. Then, take 10mm off each measurement, and you have the approximate size of your glass.

How To Tile A Bathroom Floor

Are you looking to tile your bathroom floor very soon? Well, we’ve got you covered! Tiling is not the easiest skill to acquire and definitely not one you’d not want to try out on your bathroom with some practices. For the best results and to get it right the first time, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional especially if you’re inexperienced or without a bathroom tiling training. Hopefully, this quick step-by-step guide will put you in the right direction.

Bathroom Floor Tiling Procedures

lMake Sure You Have A Levelled Subfloor

• Your subfloor’s stability is crucial for the success of your tile laying.

• Once done, then you can start planning how to level the floor.

• Identify the highest point of your floor and place a really long level to determine the dip and hump spots.

• Fill in the identified low spots with mortar.

lCut The Tiles

• Using a wet saw with a diamond blade and pump, cut through the tiles to get the appropriate shape.

lChoose The Appropriate Adhesive

• To best adhesive is probably the one written on the label and suggested by the manufacturer.

• If uncertain, you can make use of a modified mortar

lPrepare The Area

• Using the prepared mixture of your mortar, prime the surface by spreading it on the floor with the trowel’s flat side.

• Once done, you can add more mortar with the ridges of the trowel.

lSpace The Tiles

• Tile spacement depends largely on the surrounding walls. Straight walls equal straight tiles, if not your judge would be required to ensure a great outcome.

• If the wall is straight, make a space of about an eighth of an inch. The bigger spacing, the higher the possibility for the grout to become visibly discoloured.

lUse The Right Grout

• With sanded and unsanded grouts having a variety of colours, choosing the ideal grout can a tricky affair.

• The size of the spaces play a huge role in determining the best choice.

• Use a sanded grout if the spacing is an eighth of an inch or more. However if less, make use of the unsanded grout.

Damp issues on a property are usually generated by a lot of factors such as a poor or broken guttering, condensation and lots more. The question arising here is what is the possibility of External Wall Insulation (EWI) preventing condensation? Not only is EWI a reliable way to reduce condensation-caused damp, but it’s also one of the major reasons property owners in solid wall homes consider thermally rendering or cladding their external walls.

Condensation arises as a result of warm moist internal air hitting a cold surface such as the steaming up of both windows and mirror when having a shower. What happens here is the condensation of the water vapour in the air from a gas to liquid in the process of touching the cold surface - one whose temperature is significantly reduced to reach the dew point. At the dew point, condensation is very rampant, and to tackle this issue you’ll have to heighten the wall temperature in order to convert the moisture to vapour and permit it to pass through the wall. And that’s exactly the job of an external wall insulation!

To get started you must ensure that the walls are clean and dry prior to fitting the external wall insulation. The month of May through to September when the weather tends to be dry and more stable are usually the best period to carry out the project. The external wall insulation will function just like a cosy blanket around the building. Ultimately, changing the feel and temperature of the inside of your home. As a result, the previously cold walls will no longer be cold which goes a long way to mitigate the effects of condensation. Furthermore, when an EWI is installed, the rooms of your home will automatically trap more thermal mass as the heat is saved in the walls’ fabric and released back when the temperature drops.

Slab paving is a great material to use to create a sturdy shed base.

Start by measuring out the area where your shed is going to be. This needs to be the size of your shed, plus about 10-20cm extra each way. Mark it out with string and pegs, make sure it’s square, and dig it down to about 6cm deep.

Then create a sand and cement mixture and put a layer down, followed by your paving slabs. Make sure you start in one corner and use a rubber mallet and spirit level to make sure they’re as level as possible. Leave this to set and you’re ready to use your shed base.