Find a Shop Fitter you can trust in Penarth.

Also commonly referred to as drywall, plasterboard is an incredibly versatile product which features a sandwich of gypsum plaster between thick paper layers. It’s mainly used on both walls and ceilings due to the wide range of benefits it provides. Not only can plasterboard be made to be humidity resistant, fire resistant as well as noise resistant, but they’re also known to have a low environment impact, easy to repair and can be used to conceal stuff from plain sight. As a result of these benefits couple with the fact that they also happen to be quite affordable, plasterboard has grown to become a ubiquitous phenomenon in modern residential buildings.

When it comes to the installation of plasterboard on ceilings, one of the major sources of concern for several homeowners is the determination of the thickness required to ensure a durable and long-lasting project. If you’re planning to fit plasterboard on your ceiling and wondering the thickness that’ll be appropriate, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to give you a good insight on what plasterboard to use for ceilings. Let’s take a look!

First and foremost, the standard plasterboard sheet size is 120 cm in width and within the range of 180 cm to 360 cm in height. These sizes are designed to provide the much-needed support to the standard stud spacing which is 160 cm. Depending on the manufacturer, plasterboard can be in four different widths. Now talking about the thickness, there are two standard thicknesses of plasterboard - 9.5 mm and 12.5 mm. The sizes of plasterboard for ceilings are 9.5 mm or 10 mm. Most individuals tend to assume that the thicker the plasterboard the better, but this is absolutely false. A thicker plasterboard will only stick harder to the ceiling which will make it hard to seal joints if required.

A roof is one of the most significant portions of any property and they’re also the single part of a structure most vulnerable to impairment from the elements. If your roof suffers substantial damage over time, maintenances and re-roofing charges can be expensive, time-consuming, and stressful which is why it is imperative to keep your roof in sound structural and aesthetic order.

If a tile has fallen off from the top of your roof – you can expect to pay around £70-£100 to replace it including a different tile fitted in its place. Replacing a hip roof will cost between £4,250 and £7,250, the cost varies if you have a single valley or a double valley on your roof. For a new gable roof, you should expect to pay around £3,250 to £5,250.

What does it cost to replace my roof?

The charge of substituting your roof for a new one will be subject to the age and condition that it’s in, but usually, the cost of a new roof on an average property is around £5,500.

Some of the key factors to keep in mind when calculating the cost of re-roofing your house include:

• size of your roof

• type and size of the materials used

• shape and style of the roof

• If structural changes are required or not

• the roofing company hired

Tiled roof repair costs

If you are trying to prevent water from leaking inside your house for one or two tiles, then you can expect to pay between £100 to £200 to fix them and seal the leaks.

Flat roof repair costs

Minor jobs such as repairing flat roofs as well as sheds and garages or mending blisters can usually cost around £300.

Roofing job Price range

Replacing six ridge tiles £135-£260

Replacing six broken or missing tiles £55-£105

Cleanout of your gutter £35-£80

Replacing one right tile on rooftop £70-£100

The cost of a full re-roofing job can amount to around £3,250 to £7,250 depending on the size of your property.

Hip roof Cost range Length of time

Semi-detached home £4,250-£4,750 3-4 days

Detached home £5,250-£5,750 4-5 days

2 valleys – semi-detached home £5,750-£6,250 5-6 days

2-valleys detached home £6,750-£7,250 6-7 days

Gable roof Cost range Length of time

Standard £3,250-£3,750 2-3 days

2-valley £4,750-£5,250 4-5 days

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

If you want to guarantee the comfort of those inside your work environment, getting a commercial HVAC system should be a top priority. And if you already have one installed, knowing the best time to have it replaced rather than repaired will go a long way to save you some huge bucks. For instance, an air conditioning system that’s old and malfunctioning is best replaced due to the fact that all the components are probably weak and can only keep generating series of faults till it finally breaks down beyond repair. When evaluating your air conditioning unit, there are some factors that you’ll need to take into account to save yourself some money and headaches. Let’s take a look!

• Age. If your commercial HVAC system is within 15 to 20 years old and starting to look like a giant rust attached to your building, then its probably time to get a replacement. Also when old, most commercial air con systems are usually much less efficient and will consume more energy which implies higher energy bills.
• Wear and tear. If your system has experienced a significant amount of wear and tear, then its probably not heating or cooling as efficiently as it used to. Depending on the product’s quality as well as the level of maintenance many commercial HVAC system would be overdue for an upgrade by the time they’re about 15 years old.
• Malfunctions. When it comes to heating and cooling systems, some issues are quite easy to fix or resolve while others ( such as a broken furnace fan or refrigerant problems) should be best left to the experts. However, if the malfunctions are becoming more often or serious enough, then you should probably consider getting an upgrade.

When your boiler is being replaced you won’t have hot water or central heating. If you don’t mind this you can stay in your home, and use portable electric heaters if needed. Most installers undertake a power flush before installing a new boiler now and this can cause muck and debris from the pipework, so you may wish to get out of the way while this is happening!

Many conservatories fall under permitted development which means they don’t require planning permission. There are exceptions to this though, especially if you’re looking to have a large conservatory installed. Read our guide on conservatory planning permission for more information.

When Does A Loft Become A Habitable Room?

When a loft is being converted to functional space, there are a multiple options it can offer. It’s not uncommon that at the conversion of this space, many household may not have a specific plan on how it’s going to be used. However, they know later on an actual need might arise, perhaps as you start working from home, developing other hobbies that requires an extra space or the family grows.

The loft can easily be converted into a game room, study room, playroom or even a household’s “breathing space etc. However, when the family grows and you wish to make use of the space on the top of your home as an extra bedroom, there are many factors to consider. The fact is, just because there’s enough space to fit a bed, doesn’t make it habitable. For a loft to become habitable, it must be built specifically for the purpose of being a sleeping area and must also comply with the relevant building regulations. It’s as a result of this, many property sale particulars include “potential third bedroom, subject to regulations statement written on it as well as the boarded and insulated loft space’s dimensions.

Loft conversions building regulations are set in such a way to ensure that adequate attention is given to both safety and structural elements to build a new space that’s fit for undetermined household use. These regulations are established minimum requirements to guarantee the following:

• The new floor and ceiling’s structural integrity.

• The existing roof and party wall modification’s structural stability.

• Safety during fire incidents plus an escape route.

• An appropriate stairway access.

• The proposed changes’ structural suitability to the external environment in association with the local area as well as any unique factors specific to the property.

What Is Engineered Wood Flooring?

Engineered wood flooring is produced through the fixing of several layers of wood together with a solid wood as the top or wear layer. Due to its ability to hold its ground when faced with frequently changing temperature and humidity, it happens to be one of the most popular types of flooring. As a result of its ruggedness, engineered wood flooring can be easily fitted with under floor heating and in special areas like conservatories. And apart from its usually stunning visual appeal and ability to be floated over an underlay, the engineered wood flooring is even becoming a lot more popular amongst home and other property owners.

Given the fact that engineered wood flooring is made up of several layers of wood, it may be almost impossible to tell the difference between it and a solid wood flooring just by looking at both. It can also be mistaken for a laminate flooring which is basically an image of wooden flooring placed onto a high density fibreboard.

The planks of a engineered wood flooring is crafted in such a way to ensure the it does not expand or contract unlike the solid wood counterparts. What’s more? There are several benefits that comes with installing an engineered wood flooring. They include:

• Its very easy and simple to install

• When compared to solid wood flooring, it’s more cost effective.

• It can be utilized alongside an under floor heating

• It can be loose laid, meaning it does not need to be fixed in position

• It is available in multiple varieties of wood and finishes

• It can be incorporated alongside an underlay including thermal barriers

• It can be utilized in areas with a fluctuating humidity and temperature.

• It is available in different kinds of thickness.

Click here to learn more about wood flooring.