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Whether you’re hiring a professional to replace your double glazing or are considering DIY, it’s a good idea to know how to fit a double glazed window.

You need to start by assembling your window. Fit any handles and cut the outer sill to size by measuring the outer wall depth. Then, screw the outer sill to the window frame and attach the frame fixers. Screw the ventilation grilles onto the inside of the frame and fix the vents on.

Next, you need put the window into place, using spacers to wedge it in. Use a spirit level to check it’s level horizontally and vertically, adding extra spacers if needed. Then, fix the frame into place at each fixing point using a drill, wall plugs and screws. Measure and cut the interior sill, and check that it’s level, adding spacers if needed. Then fix it using screws, masonry nails or adhesive.

Finally, fill in any wide gaps with foam filler and small gaps with sealant. You can get interior and exterior trims to cover these up, making your window look neat and professional.

Can You Tile Over Floor Tiles?

Are you about to tackle a refurbishment or renovation project? If yes, then you might be worried about the removal of your old tiles before installing the new ones. Being fully aware that this process can be time and money consuming, it can only make sense to consider whether you can tile on existing tiles. The answer is yes, however, there are a few details you must take into account when embarking on this cost-effective journey. Here’s our advice:

lSelect The New Tiles

• Take into consideration the surface behind the tiles and the weight it’ll be able to withstand.

• For plasterboard, the surface can withstand about 30kg to 32kg per m2 (28.5kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 3.5kg of adhesive and grout).

• For skimmed plasterboard, the surface can hold about 18kg to 20kg per m2 ( 16kg of tile/square metre and 2.5kg to 4kg of adhesive and grout )

• Consider the existing tiles, if heavy enough, then your choice for the new tiles should very light.

lPrepare Old Tiles

• Confirm that the old tiles are well glued to the substrate.

• Check that the tiles are level. If not, use a grinder to flatten out any humps.

• Remove the sealer for the old tiles, if any.

• Clear out all dust and dirt.

lLay New Tiles

• Spread a layer of flexible adhesive.

• Lay the new tiles

lFinish The Project

• Fill the joints with an appropriate tile grout.

• Seal the edges with a sealant.

It’s as simple as that! However, it must be said that if you’re lacking the appropriate training or experience to pull this off, then you probably would not want the first trial on your prized asset. For a top quality job and to avoid unnecessary costs, you can reach out to a tiling professional for help.

Roof tiles should be replaced as soon as possible to ensure that your roof stays waterproof. Use crawl boards when replacing them to avoid damaging other tiles, if not ask a qualified roofer to carry out the work, particularly if the tiles are higher up.

Some individuals who have been in the construction department for many years may not be qualified, that is, they may not have undergone an apprenticeship and/or trade certificate courses, but they might still be very skilled at their work. However, anybody can pick up a sledgehammer and demand themselves a builder lacking any skills or training. The wise thing would be to ask the builder coming to your house about what qualifications they have and what training they have undergone.

Licensing of building practitioners

You can now check if your builder or tradesperson is a licensed building practitioner by using an electronic public register which has a record of every registered builder. Being licensed provides you with an assurance that the builder who is about to do your work has proven his shill to the government and earned his right to be a practitioner. If you wish for certain important building and design work on your home it is imperative that you hire a licensed practitioner, the act is very common when you compare the scenario with when you have to call a plumber or an electrician regarding any work.

In order to become a builder in the UK, you must complete an apprenticeship or an NVQ. NVQ is another popular route to becoming a builder. You can also get your NVQ even when you are working as an apprentice. You can also make it based on any recognised overseas qualification.

All associates maintain a Code of Practice and Conduct which sets the standards for all stages of the building procedure. The Code requires builders to:

• Submit quotes on projects for which they have time.

• Securing the contract with a sufficient insurance cover.

• Maintain honesty and integrity at all times.

• Obey the law and industry standards of conduct.

All members of the construction association must also follow a code of conduct. As a consumer, if you think your builder has breached the Code of Conduct or the Code of Ethics, you can file a written against him or her.

Scarification is the name given to the process where you remove excess thatch and moss from your lawn to encourage it to grow and look healthy. Although it sounds difficult, it’s actually pretty easy – simply grab a sturdy rake and apply moderate pressure to rake out moss, thatch and dead grass. Then collect it up and add to your compost heap if you have one. You can also use a petrol or electric rake, but you just want to tease out the moss and thatch. Don’t be tempted to go deep into the grass, as this could damage your lawn. So when should you scarify your lawn? The experts say that the best time is in the autumn, when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. Most of summer’s weed seeds will have gone, so you won’t encourage weeds to grow in the raked-up soil. This soil also makes an ideal seed bed for over seeding with new grass seed, so that’s why you don’t want to get weeds in there as well. However, you may also carry out light scarification in the spring – usually around April. Make sure you don’t go too far though – as you will end up with a rather disfigured lawn if you scarify too heavily and the dryness of summer stops the lawn from recovering. It’s also best to scarify your lawn in the spring if the following apply:

• If you couldn’t do it the previous autumn – if you keep putting it off, you might end up with extreme moss and weed growth
• If your lawn is shaded – these areas will thin over winter and start to thicken from spring onwards, so if you scarify in the autumn you’ll make your lawn even thinner.
• If your lawn is under trees – pair the shade from the trees with the fall of leaves in the autumn and your grass won’t be healthy, but in the spring the trees are bare, allowing lots of light onto your lawn to help it grow.

Though both solid wood and engineered wood can be installed on a concrete sub-floor, the processes are quite different from each other. Solid wood is produced from a single plank of wood which can be reactive to both temperature and humidity changes which is capable of making the wood expand or contract. Hence, the different approach to solid wood and engineered wood flooring installation on concrete. Here, we’ll discuss how you can lay solid wood on your concrete.

First and foremost, you’d have to determine the method you’ll use to attach the planks to the floor. Is it floating whereby you only have to lay the wood flooring on the concrete after fitting the right underlay? You can also go for the most popular installation method which is gluing your floor with a flexible wood adhesive (to be applied to both the boards and the sub-floor). Or perhaps you’d prefer to use the traditional method of nailing the boards to the concrete (the nails will be covered as you lay the subsequent planks and the groove locks with the tongue).

After making this decision, you’d have to ensure that the sub-floor is well prepared for the installation. This implies checking the wood’s moisture content (mustn’t exceed 7 to 8 percent). Also inspect the floor to ensure its neat, if not, clear out the dirt or debris and make sure the surface is flat to avoid post-installation problems.

In the event whereby you discover a high moisture content, you’d want to acquire a damp proof membrane. This will not only enhance the floor’s stability, but also prevent shrinking or warping of the wood due to changes in humidity or temperature.

It is crucial to note that the preparation of the sub-floor is equally as important as the laying of the planks as this can go a long way to improve the durability and strength of your floor. Click here to learn more about wood flooring.

Having a security gate installed on your property brings about a lot of benefits. However, to ensure these benefits are maximized, it’s important to make sure the gates are properly installed. The installation can be made a DIY task or professionally installed. If you wish to install your security gates by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in the installation of a security gate. Let’s take a look!

1. Go through the instructions carefully to get the best out of your installation and also a good understanding.
2. Dig holes for the posts. Don’t make holes round to make sure the posts do not turn or twist.
3. Get rid of any obstructions like uneven ground, rocks or any other obstacles that may impact the free opening of the gate.
4. Re-confirm the distance between the two poles to make sure that the gate can hang perfectly between them.
5. Get an adjustable hinge. Adjustable hinge will allow for extra customization while also enabling improved correction of errors.
6. Make sure that the measurement taken leaves sufficient space for vehicles such as emergency vehicles and package delivery trucks when opened.
7. If you have a fence that’ll be connected to the gate, you should install the gate at the back of the fencing pillars. If you later decide to automate the security gate, this will prove to be a smart move as it enables a free and unhindered function.
8. Make sure you go through the local laws before installation.

Are you having weed problems on your carefully picked out block pavings? After spending huge bucks to install the block pavings, the last thing any homeowner would want to discover is weed taking over the prized asset. Fortunately, this is a problem that can be effectively handled in a few simple steps provided in this article.

Basically, sealing of block paving is all about prevention of weed growth in the area by total weed removal, putting of sand between the block paving joints and sealing with a good quality sealant. This is a task that’s best left for a reliable professional to guarantee the best results especially if you lack proper training and experience. This guide will give a good insight into the process.

Here are the equipment you’ll need to get started: pressure washer, weed killer, bin bag, broom, small brush, protective gear, sealing roller, spueegee, jointing sand and sealer and DIY sprayer.

lRemove The Weed

• Put on a protective clothing and gloves

• Get a weed disposal bag to clean while you go.

• Apply the selected weed killer on both areas where weeds are present and the absent ones to prevent any growing.

lPressure Washing

• Angle your pressure washer between the gaps. This is done to remove all weeds and debris that are still lying around as well as removing all possible chemical residues to create a thorough clean between the paving slab.

• Leave the washed area to dry.

l Sand The Joints

• Check the weather forecast to ensure there’s about 24 to 48 hours of dryness as its important for both sand and sealant to do a perfect job.

• Put sand between the gaps and push it down with your small brush until its levelled.

lSeal The Gaps

• The sealing process should be done immediately and sanding.

• Clean up the patio

• Perform a test using a small area

• Apply the sealant

• Apply the second of sealant

• Leave to dry for about 2 to 3 hours.