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If you’re thinking about a career in gardening or horticulture, regardless of the aspect there are relevant memberships, accreditations and qualifications available. First and foremost, gardening courses can range from as little as 6 months to a couple of years depending on the level of expertise that you require. Before you can be accepted as a member of a gardener’s association such as The Gardener’s Guild, you must prove to have a minimum of one horticultural qualification at Level two or above. It’s highly recommended that gardeners seek formal training in other to ensure a steady development - both personal and professional.

When it comes to gardening, qualifications are very important. They’ll give your customers the confidence in your commitment to your trade as well as your reliability. Having a qualification in gardening can also make you more efficient as you’ll be able to identify plant properly, know when they flower and need pruning etc, which helps you to effectively manage your time. The skills qualifications you’ll need include LANTRA and City and Guilds/NTPC qualifications which typically includes licenses for the use of horticultural equipment. For instance, if you plant to use a chainsaw, you’ll have to contact them to enquire about local courses. Licenses are a legal requirement in certain events and represents your seriousness when it comes to safety and environment issues.

RHS qualifications are also very popular amongst gardeners in the UK. The RHS courses can be completed at local colleges or through correspondence. Here, there are various modules that specialize in different horticulture topics and can also be combined to achieve higher level qualifications.

In the UK, more than 50 percent of the money paid for utility bills is aimed at heating and hot water costs as stated by the Energy Saving Trust. This also means that when you settle for an old or ageing boiler, you’ll have to unnecessarily incur high utility bill in order to heat your home and have hot water on demand. In this kind of situation, the most effective and practical solution is to fit a new gas boiler in your home. This will provide you several benefits such as improved efficiency and reliability as well as reduced operating costs.

However, the only drawback here is the fact that removing your old gas boiler and replacing it with a new gas boiler isn’t a 5 minute task. And as you would have expected, like many other home improvement project there’s always an element of disruption that you’ll have to put into consideration when fitting a new gas boiler system. Good news is, with a qualified and experienced heating companies, these disruptions can be kept at a minimum. So now let’s take a look at how long it’ll take to replace a gas boiler depending on the type.

✓ An existing combi boiler upgrade - Installation times may vary, but typically the removal of an existing combi boiler and installation of a new one will usually be completed in a day - about four to six hours.

✓ Converting a regular to a combi boiler - Due to the fact that these type of project is usually labour intensive, it’ll take longer to complete - about 2 days.

✓ First time installation of new boiler to a home. This will usually take about 3 or more days because new pipes and other tasks need to the installation will be carried out.

Installing a plasterboard to a ceiling is not the easiest of tasks, and even though it can be done by one person, it’s usually a lot easier when done by two people. If you’re an experienced DIYer, this task becomes a lot easier to undertake, with both confidence and patience needed to ensure a successful outcome. If you lack these essential attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the processes involved to plasterboard your ceiling. Let’s take a look!

✓ Take a measurement of your ceiling. Knowing the length and width of your room is crucial here. You have nothing to worry about if it’s not a perfect square as that’ll only mean more cutting.

✓ Make the necessary plasterboard cuts. Cut the plasterboard sheet with a utility knife in accordance to ceiling space measured.

✓ Remove existing plaster. Once done, examine the trusses and beams to ensure they’re still in a great condition before you proceed. Also, make sure there’s no loose plaster that can compromise your new installation.

✓ Apply construction adhesive. For a better fit, you’d have to apply adhesive along the beams while also avoiding the edges as this could affect your screw placement.

✓ Start in a level corner. You have to start the installation from the most level corner.

✓ Work along the outside edges. Secure it using a screw along the outside edge. This will make your plasterboard held to your ceiling perfectly. It won’t bend or break as your proceed with the installation.

✓ Complete the installation. Install the plasterboard on your entire ceiling and complete the installation by taping the seams and plastering for a smooth surface.

How you install commercial rubber roofing is similar to fitting it on a residential property, except that the area that’s covered is likely to be bigger. With commercial properties, you should always leave any maintenance and repair works to the professionals – whether you own or lease the property, you could invalidate any insurance if you try to install rubber roofing yourself. We’ll outline the steps roofers will take when installing rubber roofing on a commercial property.

Firstly, the installers will remove any existing coverings and clean and dry the surface thoroughly. This is vital in ensuring that the rubber will stick. They will then unwrap the EDPM rubber membrane and leave it to rest until it’s fully expanded. On a warm day this may take around half an hour.

Next, the roofers will work with half a sheet of rubber at a time and adhere it to the roof surface. They may use a water-based adhesive which they will spread onto the roof in sections, then roll the membrane onto the surface before moving onto the next section. If they’re using a bonded adhesive, they will apply it to both the roof and the rubber and leave it to dry until it’s tacky before extending the membrane.

Once the EDPM rubber is rolled out, the installers will brush the surface with a large broom to get rid of bubbles and provide a stronger bond. Then they will work of the edges, applying adhesive to roof and walls edges, sealing corners and creating watertight seals. They’ll also tidy up any excess membrane and seal all the trims.

As long as it’s installed correctly, your commercial rubber roofing should last you decades without any repairs needed. It’s always best to inspect your roof regularly to spot any damage before it becomes a bigger problem.

Re-pressurising your boiler means that you allow more water to enter system via the filling loop. It can be easy to re-pressurise your boiler yourself. Always check your manual, but there are some simple steps you can take to restore pressure to your boiler:

1. Switch off your boiler and let it cool completely
2. Make sure both ends of your filling loop are attached
3. Open both valves to allow cold water into the system – you’ll hear it start to move
4. Look out for your pressure gauge to show 1.5 bar
5. Close both valves
6. Switch your boiler back on
7. Undo both ends of your filling loop and remove it. Remember some water might come out, so be ready to catch some spillage!

Are you interested in having a tiled floor in your residential or commercial space? There are so many benefits that comes with installing tiles and that’s why so many home or property owners are considering it. Not only do they increase the visual appeal of the property, but they’re also resistant to moisture helping to increase the durability of the house, whether it’s wall or floor tiles. So if you wish to lay tiles for your house, this guide will help put you in the right direction, ensuring you get it right, the first time.

Floor Tiles Installation Procedures

• Floor Preparation

✓ The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more.

✓ Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.

✓ Ensure the floor is dry and clean.

• Pattern Layout

✓ Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.

✓ To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.

• Adhesive Preparation

✓ Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent).

✓ The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.

• Tiles Placement

✓ Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel.

✓ Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.

✓ Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.

• Tiles Cutting

✓ Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.

• Grout Application

✓ Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float.

✓ After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes.

✓ Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.

• Grout Sealing

✓ Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application.

✓ Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

Floor tiling can be a very tricky activity that can end up being disastrous, especially when done by a novice. Unless you have prior experience or well-trained, it would be advisable to employ the services of a seasoned professional - it’ll save you lots of time, money and guarantee a top quality job is done.

How Much Is A Metal Front Door?

If you’re looking to get a front door, one of the things you’d want to consider before you proceed is the price of getting the door. As an exterior door, you’ll need something that’s close against weather as well as intrusion. And that’s exactly where steel comes in! It’s a popular choice for exterior door material due to the numerous qualities it possesses. However, the single and precise cost to get a metal front door can not be provided as it depends on a wide array of factors.

The cost to install an average metal front door will depend on the material and finish grade, structural preparation, size, unique needs, labour rate and lots more. Other things you’d have to put into consideration includes the following:

✓ A project to replace more than 2 doors are more likely to enjoy a unit price or bulk discount.

✓ During inspection to replace the existing door with a metal one, there may be some repair concerns like rot and also a need to adapt the existing door opening structure which will also tell on the price

✓ There may be local or national subsidy for energy efficiency improvements.

✓ Taxes and permit fees may also be applicable.

✓ DIY considerations. This project may be suitable for a DIYer with carpentry skills. So if you wish to carry out the installation by yourself that’ll also help you save some money.

Generally, the cost of a metal front door will range between £100 to about £10,000. However, before you purchase a steel door it’s very important to put into consideration what the door is being used for as well as what you’d prioritize between beauty and security - although, most steel doors can offer both at an affordable price.

While resin bound and resin bonded driveways have similar names, it might surprise you to know that they’re very different. Both paving systems use resin and aggregates (stones) to form a fixed surface, but there are plenty more differences than there are similarities.

Resin bound driveways are made from a resin and aggregate mix that is trowelled onto a bitmac or concrete base. It leaves a smooth, flat finish and you won’t find any loose gravel. It’s also a pourous surface, which means that rainwater can pass through into the ground, avoiding pools and flooding.

However, resin bonded driveways involve spreading resin across a base, then scattering aggregate into it. Most of the stones will stick to the resin, but some will stay loose. That means you’ll get the effect of loose gravel without so much to sweep and take care of. Because the stones are scattered onto a complete layer of resin, water can’t pass through it. That means you could end up with water pooling, and it also means that a resin bonded driveway isn’t frost resistant, meaning it could get slippery.

So which is better – a resin bound or resin bonded driveway? The answer depends on a few things. If you have a period property where a smooth, shiny surface might not complement the look of your home, you might want to go for resin bonded. If you need lots of grip, for example if you’re a wheelchair user, resin bonded may also be the way to go – even though resin bound surfaces still offer enough grip for sloped driveways and ramps. But if you want a low-maintenance, weed-free, permeable surface, resin bound driveways are the way to go.