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If you’re looking to hire the services of a house cleaner for your residential property, then one of the first things that naturally comes to mind is the cost of completing this task. Simple as it seems, there’s actually no short and direct answer to this question as the price of your clean will depends on a number of varying factors. Generally, the key drivers of the amount you’ll have to pay for your clean includes the following: location, number of rooms, frequency of cleans, the cleaner’s experience, number of cleaners in the local area, number of bathrooms, agency charges as well as optional extras.

There are two main routes you can take to hire a cleaner. These routes include using a cleaning company or agency, or source your own independent cleaner. Whichever way you choose to go through, it’ll automatically play a role in the price you’ll have to pay to get the cleaning service. In general, you can normally expect to pay between £4 to £10 per hour in agency fees in addition to the rate the average cleaner would expect for the area, based on how competitive the market for agencies is in your area.

For hourly cleaners, the cost you can expect to pay to have your house cleaned typically ranges from £12 to £23 average cost per hour. Prices in more rural areas tend to vary a lot more, which is mostly dictated by the number of businesses that are operating in the area.

There are a number of ways in which you can save money on your clean which includes supplying your own cleaning product or equipment, opting out of optional extras like oven cleaning or ironing, comparing quotes from different provides to get the best price and more.

If you get the right size boiler for your business and you get it serviced regularly, your boiler could last up to 15 years. It may even last longer than this, but you’ll find that your boiler begins to become less efficient as it gets older. Also, as technology improves, a boiler older than 15 years may not be the most efficient one on the market.

Do I Need Planning Permission For A Wooden Conservatory?

The addition of a conservatory to your home is classified as a “permitted development and according to the 2008 legislation, you do not need to apply for a planning permission to add a wooden conservatory to your home so far you are within some particular limits. These regulations are summarized below:

• All extensions must not be more than one storey and the height must be lower or equal to the existing building’s roof or 4m at the maximum.

• There are multiple limitations on the extent you can extend from your existing property depending on a few factors such as the type of your house as well as the location of the extension, be it at the rear or side of the building.

• If your wooden conservatory is to be constructed at the rear, it must not go beyond 3 metres from the attached house’s original property and 4 metres in a detached house. Also, the wooden conservatory mustn’t go beyond half the space around the property.

• The wooden conservatory must not go beyond half the size of the original house. Similar conditions govern that of the space around the existing building.

• Extensions that are not covered by the permitting rights are the ones constructed in front of the property or those directly facing the main street or road.

• Listed Building content may be needed in the event whereby there’s a Listed Building proposed work.

This is just a brief of the conditions that applies, however, the fact remains most property owners can have a wooden conservatory installed without having to apply for planning permission. It is advisable to consult your local planning office before you construct an extension. In certain cases, all work may require planning permission if there’s a permitted development rights removal. Click here to learn more about wooden conservatories

If your artex ceiling is looking tired or you just fancy a change, you can try plastering over your artex. You have two options when it comes to plastering over your artex: plasterboard or skimming.

Covering your ceiling with plasterboard is a good option if you suspect the artex may contain asbestos. If done carefully, it doesn’t involve disturbing the artex, reducing the risk of asbestos exposure.

You also have the option to skim over your ceiling. The first steps to this involve removing loose and flaking parts, cutting off stipples and sanding your ceiling down. So, if there’s a chance your artex ceiling may contain asbestos, this isn’t the right solution for you. However, if you’re sure there’s no asbestos in your ceiling, then sanding down and skimming over your ceiling can be a great way to create an attractive result.

It’s worth noting that both putting up plasterboard and skimming plaster can be difficult jobs. Although possible to DIY, you’re likely to get much better results if you hire a professional.

You don’t have to, especially if you’re on a budget. If you’re only replacing some, it’s a good idea to get all the windows on one side of your property replaced at the same time, so they all look the same. Be aware, obviously, huge savings could be had by having a number of windows replaced at the same time.

Getting its name from it’s original use and commonly mistaken for conservatories, orangeries were developed about four hundred years ago to help protect citrus fruits from the winter frosts. An orangery is basically a room extension featuring a flat perimeter roof, brick base as well as a central roof lantern including doors and windows. Even though it originates from Italy and made more modern by Holland’s architectural development, orangeries have grown to become an ubiquitous phenomenon within the British society with thousands of the extension being built every year. They’re built in a similar way to conservatories, however, orangeries are typically developed from a brick base and usually making use of a stone or brick pillars to provide support to a flat roof perimeter. Also, the common choice for an orangery is a central roof lantern including glass panels or vent windows. Unlike conservatories which usually make use of patio doors, orangeries are more likely to have more complex bi-folding door system - enhancing the visual appeal of the extension in a more unique and stylish way.

Orangeries typically incorporates less glass when compared to a conservatory - thereby, allowing a moderate amount of natural light into the space. This way, you would not have to go outdoors to enjoy the sunlight during the summer months. Generally, the extension also offers a atrium-style ceiling height while also protecting your space from excessive sunlight and adding character to your home.

In conclusion, orangeries are an excellent choice when it comes to extending your home - be it to make a room larger or adding a new room all together. Ultimately, they go a long way to add incredible value to your home for resale purposes. Orangeries are best installed by seasoned professionals in order to ensure the best outcome.

While it sounds like it could be difficult to plasterboard around a Velux window, it needn’t be. As long as you have the right tools and materials, you should be able to plasterboard around your roof window easily and make good ready to be skimmed. When you or a tradesperson has fitted your Velux window into your roof, you’ll probably need to plasterboard over it to create a good ceiling. To do this, you’ll need:

• Plasterboard sheets – make sure you measure your room so you know how much you’ll need
• Screws to secure the board in place
• Drill
• Hammer
• Straight edge and pen knife to score the board before trimming
• Fine toothed saw the cut the plasterboard

When you’re ready to plasterboard around your roof window, make sure you’ve cleared enough space to work in. Then you can begin by cutting your plasterboard to size using your straight edge and pen knife to score, then your saw to get a clean cut. A common way of plasterboarding around your Velux window is to use the groove on the window frame to hold one edge of the board, then screw the other edge to the battens on the ceiling. People often use drywall screws these days as they have a better grip of the plasterboard as they drive through. You’ll need to use a drill to screw these in. However, you could use plasterboard nails, which are galvanised to stop rusting. When you’ve done this, you can then skim the walls or ask a plasterer to do it for you. Plastering, while it looks easy, is a tricky skill so it’s always best to ask a professional to do it.

If you want your tarmac driveway or outdoor area to last as long as possible, it’s important to look after it. This means giving it a good clean every so often.

If there are any greasy or oily stains on your tarmac, you won’t get these off only using water. Get a degreaser and follow the instructions. You’ll then need to use a pressure washer or hose to rinse off the detergent and clean the rest of your tarmac or asphalt area.

Avoid getting your pressure washer too close to your outdoor surface or pointing it directly at it. You should also avoid cleaning the same area for too long. This will help you clean your tarmac while avoiding damaging it.