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Whether you need toughened glass in your windows depends on where the windows are in your home or business. Toughened glass is sometimes referred to as tempered or safety glass, and it just means it’s stronger than the standard glass that’s usually offered with double glazed windows. So how do you know if you need it?

Toughened glass is useful in areas of your home where you might come into contact with the windows if you were to trip and fall. If you put your hands out to steady yourself on standard glass the chances are it would break into large sharp pieces with jagged edges. Of course, this means that you could seriously cut yourself if this were to happen. With toughened glass, the structure of the glass is changed so that if it breaks it shatters into lots of tiny pieces, minimising the risk to you if you were to fall on it.

You might want to use toughened glass in patio doors, low windows or frames next to doors. It just means that you will be safer if the unlikely happens and you or a family member falls through the glass. There are certain requirements through Building Regulations with windows at a certain level, but any reputable window installer should be able to go through these with you if you need to replace your windows with toughened glass. The regulations will only apply to new windows – there's no need to switch your windows to toughened glass early, but when you do come to replace them you’ll need to make sure they meet the standard.

Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!

✓ Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.

✓ Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.

✓ With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.

✓ Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.

✓ Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.

✓ The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.

✓ Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.

✓ Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.

✓ Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.

The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.

How long your solar panels will last depends on their age and quality. Most modern solar panels have 20-30 year warranties, but this doesn’t mean that they’ll stop working at this point. Many will stay at a good efficiency level for up to 40 years, while others will start to decline earlier.

Two of the commonly used terms in the UK and Irish construction industry is “First Fix and “Second Fix First fix encompasses all the work required to take a building from foundation to stroking plaster on the interior walls. This comprises of building walls, floors and ceilings, and implanting cables for electrical supply and pipes for water supply.

Some claim that First Fix starts after the shell of the building is complete, and ends when the walls are plastered. Some of the elements in the first fix are as follows.

• Drain runs: must be downhill and straight

• Spare conduits: drawstrings

• Soil pipes

• Copper pipes

• Normal pipes

• Doorbell

• Door frames

• Pocket doorframes

• Stairwell

• MVHR (mechanical heat recovery ventilation runs)

• Push-fit or other plastic piping

• Electrical back boxes

• Electricity cable runs

• Telephone, data and audio-visual cables

• Socket location

• Security

• Fire alarm

• Sound insulation

• Plasterboarding

It is to be kept in mind that the list goes on as there are several things that you can do when you are building a house from scratch and it is impossible to cover each and every aspect in detail.

The second fix includes all the work after the plastering of a complete house. These include linking cables to the electrical fittings, coupling pipes to the baths and sinks and fitting doors into doorframes. Second fix work requires a tidier finish than the first fix.

Carpenters, electricians and plumbers get a proper idea on the division of work. They will also be able to visit the construction site at different times.

Project managers can simply report it as the "first fix complete" or "the second fix 50% done" and others would very easily understand.

Regardless of the fact that a construction company might specialise in a certain form of fix, be it the first or the second, they are obligated to have a rudimentary understanding of both and are required to perform them from time to time.

1. If you’ve not got an overhang or it’s a fixed deck, fit starter clips along the outside edge of the frame and secure with screws provided with the composite decking. If you are working with an overhang, put the first board into position not exceeding 25mm. If you’re adding a fascia, put an off-cut of board under the overhang so you know it’ll be flush with the fascia.
2. Pre-drill all fixing points, measuring in 30mm from the edge of the board. Secure the board to the joist below with composite decking screws.
3. Slide a hidden fastener clip in so it sits within the groove of the deck board. It needs to be in the centre of the joist to keep the boards secure and ensure an expansion gap of 6mm. Tighten the clips until just tight, and repeat so there’s a clip at every joist.
4. Add the next board, ensuring that the fastener clips sit within the groove – make sure you don’t force it. Repeat step 3.
5. Continue steps 3 and 4 until you’re at the final board, which you should secure in the same way as you did the first.

This is one of the most common questions when it comes to upvc windows. If you’re also interested in knowing the possibility of spraying white upvc windows grey, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we aim to answer this question once and for all.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, you can definitely spray white upvc windows grey! In fact, you can spray white upvc windows with any colour of your choice. So far, the most used colour is the anthracite grey, but you’re not restricted to that. You can also make use of agate grey, French grey, window grey, battleship grey and lots more! However, it should be noted that spraying white upvc windows grey is in no way an easy task as it requires lots of experience and practice.

The spraying process usually starts with a thorough cleaning of all the surfaces to be sprayed using a specialist solvent upvc cleaner. Once done, you’ll have to get rid of any existing silicone from around the frames because the paint won’t adhere properly to silicone. Upon completion, you can then proceed to masking up the surrounding brick or stone, glass, openings into room, furniture, paths or plants and many more to protect them from potential paint overspray. Now to spray the paint, you can make use of a spray gun and spray painter. Before you start painting, you can apply a light dust or mist coat to identify any contamination left on the surfaces. Once this has dried without any negative reactions, you should spray two further coats (some colours may require up to 3). leave for up to 20 minutes to dry and remove all masking.

Electric heating has several benefits. It can be paired with renewable electricity generation, so the electricity used to heat your home will be sustainable. Underfloor heating is very efficient and can be cheaper than comparable gas or oil fired systems.

If your property is not connected to a gas main, oil boilers are a great alternative to gas boilers and more efficient than LPG alternatives. They can also be paired well with renewable sources. However, if your property is connected to the gas mains, there is generally no reason to switch to an oil boiler, as you will need to have oil delivered to an extra storage tank.