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How To Prepare Exterior Walls For Painting?

For a great and smooth exterior finish, preparing the walls before painting is crucial. A great painting job melts the heart and even more so if its done by you. This is a relatively easy task that can be completed without much hassle by an expert DIYer. However if you lack the needed confidence to pull off your exterior wall painting preparation task, then hiring the services of a reliable professional who can guarantee the best result would be your best bet. In this step by step, we aim to take you through the steps involved in preparing exterior walls for painting.

Before you get started, you need to make sure you have the necessary tools in place. These includes a filler and filling knife, sandpaper, soap, sponge, wide paint brush, masking tape as well as drop sheets.

✓ Ensure a smooth surface with a filer and sanding. This includes removing and replacing any rotten or decaying timer, proper sanding as needed, scraping off of peeling areas with sanding and filling of cracking areas with the help of exterior grade filler. Once the above is completed, you can then proceed to filling any holes or cracks in your exterior surface with a top quality exterior filler ( the application should be done with a putty knife).

✓ Cleaning. With the help of a quality and soft brush, clear out the dirt and cobwebs on the exterior’s surface. Then wash the walls with a good detergent to remove any remaining dirt and grease. You can use a bristled brush and a high pressure cleaner to make the process easier.

✓ Mask the area. This involves using a top quality masking tape along the edges you do not wish to paint and pushing the tape’s edges down firmly in such a way to get straight edges.

How Much Is A Gas Safety Certificate?

If you’re a landlord in the UK, then you’d know a gas safety certificate is a legal requirement. If yes, then you’d probably like to know how much it’ll cost to get a gas safety certificate so you can make plans on obtaining one for your property. In this article, you’ll find all you need to know about the amount you’re expected to pay for a gas safety certificate in the UK.

First and foremost, let’s look into the use of the certificate. Basically, a gas safety certificate is the legal inspection of your property’s gas appliances which would be done on an annual basis. Only an approved Gas Safe engineer is allowed to carry out this statutory check. Ultimately, if you own rental properties in the country, this is a requirement you can’t afford to overlook to ensure the safety of your tenants.

Furthermore, included in this inspection are each and every gas appliances, chimneys, pipework as well as flues in the property. In recent times, several individuals make use of fewer gas appliances which ultimately implies that they may only need the servicing of their gas fire. Once you’ve passed the inspection, you’ll be given your CP12 certificate which must be kept for a minimum of two years. A copy should also be provided to your tenants within 28 days of issue. So how much will it cost to get a gas safety certificate?

Depending on your location in the UK as well as the number of gas appliances incorporated, the average cost of a gas certificate will range between £60 to £90. The Gas Safe engineer will carry out the task as a fixed and statutory job.

If you’re about to acquire an electrical safety certificate, it’s quite normal to be a bit curious about the length of time the certificate is expected to last for. Well, this is also a bit tricky as the duration is determined by your type of property. In this post, we aim to shed more light into this topic in order to give you a detailed insight and help you make informed decisions moving forward.

As earlier stated, the validity of your electrical safety certificate or report is based on the type of property you own. In event whereby you happen to have tenants living in the property, the electrical safety certificate will last for 5 years or with every change of tenancy, depending on whichever comes first. However, in the event whereby you happen to live in your property, the electrical safety certificate is going to remain valid for 10 years. What’s more? For commercial properties, the electrical safety certificate is also valid for only 5 years. Meanwhile for caravans and swimming pools, the electrical safety certificate possesses a shorter lifespan of just 3 year and 1 year respectively.

The suggested length of validity is only the industry standard. And as such, landlords are not under any legal obligation to get their electrical safety certificate updated at the aforementioned times. According to the Landlord and Tenant Act of 1985, landlords are only required to keep the electrical wiring in proper condition at all times. It does not in any form require landlords to get an electrical safety report or certificate.

One of the primary reasons why you need to get an electrical certificate is that you may not be allowed to show legal proof that the wiring and electrical set up in your property was in the best possible condition in the event of an electrical accident. Several insurance companies will not accept your claims if you’re unable to present the electrical safety certificate.

If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.

So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.

• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.

• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.

• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).

• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.

• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.

• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.

• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.

A construction professional trained in putting up platforms and scaffolds is known as a scaffolder. These individuals can erect scaffolds related to building construction, and they can also work on offshore oil rigs, power stations, and projects such as parade viewing platforms. The pay is typically low, because the work is fairly basic, although those who specialize in more complex types of jobs may be able to obtain better salaries.

Being a scaffolder is not as easy as it sounds. The person will have to be a high school graduate and physically fit. It is also helpful if you are not afraid of heights. Training for this provided during the job while hard workers and fast learners get the chance at an early promotion.

The first step involves finding out the requirement and coming up with a plan. Scaffolds are generally made of metal and uses clips to snap into place. This allows fluid configuration of the scaffold structure as per needs. Wood is also sometimes used. After the scaffolding is set up, platforms are made to walk and hold tools. Safety nets and other safety measures should also be kept in place in some cases. After completing the job, the scaffolds can be easily dismantled and moved.

Construction of new buildings or renovation of any structure will utilise scaffolds. A skilled scaffolder can work as part of a team of people to put up a stable, well-anchored scaffolding that may stay up for weeks, months, or years, depending on the job. Periodically the scaffold needs to be reconfigured based on the need of the progress of the work. This is also particularly true in cases of restoration to avoid any sort of damage to the structures underneath the scaffolding. Scaffolders need to keep up with the restoration or the construction and periodically adjust the scaffolds as necessary.

Re-pressurising your boiler means that you allow more water to enter system via the filling loop. It can be easy to re-pressurise your boiler yourself. Always check your manual, but there are some simple steps you can take to restore pressure to your boiler:

1. Switch off your boiler and let it cool completely
2. Make sure both ends of your filling loop are attached
3. Open both valves to allow cold water into the system – you’ll hear it start to move
4. Look out for your pressure gauge to show 1.5 bar
5. Close both valves
6. Switch your boiler back on
7. Undo both ends of your filling loop and remove it. Remember some water might come out, so be ready to catch some spillage!

Laying a lawn is a task that’s best left to the professionals especially if you don’t know what you’re doing. However, if you can follow a simple logical process, you’ll save yourself a lot of headache – simply start from the edge and work inwards. If you’re looking to lay your lawn by yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post, we’re going to consider the processes involved in lawn installation in order to ensure your project turns out a success. Let’s take a look!

Firstly, the tools you’re going to need to lay your lawn includes the following – sturdy boots, gardening gloves (should be thick), wheel barrow, garden fork or rotovator, landscaping rake, laying boards, knife or edge trimmer, hosepipe and broom.

1. Start from the outside edge. Install the initial strips horizontally overlapping the boundary a bit (trim the back once done). Press down carefully to make sure there’s a good contact with the soil (make sure not to squash the lawn).
2. Proceed to lay the adjacent pieces till the first row of the lawn along the entire edge is completed.
3. Continue with the next row. If there’s a need to stand on the laid turf, simply make use of a plank so as to avoid squashing or denting the turf. It’s important to ensure the successive rows are staggered to prevent the short edges from lining up.
4. Proceed by butting and pushing the edges to create a tight joint (make sure the turf is not stretched).
5. Use a wood saw or sharp serrated knife to trim any untidy edges. Remember to make use of a plank to ensure you do not walk directly on the turf.
6. Water the newly installed turf adequately to ensure the water penetrates the soil. However, do not turn it into a mud bath.

Do you think your outside drain is blocked? If yes, then you should have it treated as soon as possible and most especially by a professional who can guarantee the best outcome. When you fail to unblock your drain when due, there is no limit to the damage that can be caused. These includes water leakages which can damage your home or business facility. And in critical situations, it can as well result in pipe burst which will definitely cost you a lot more money to fix when compared to taking a quick action to unclog the outside drain blockages. If you’re thinking about hiring a professional, then you’d probably want to know how much its going to cost. In this post, we’re going to look at the cost of clearing an outside drain and the possible influencing factors.

The cost of clearing an outside drain is based on a number of factors. These factors include the type of the blockage, the method used, the location of the property as well as the ease of access. Using the blockage type as an example, a small blockage in a toilet or sink is usually priced within the range of £50 to about £70. However, for an extensive blockage deep in your outside drain that’s hard to access, you may end up incurring anything within the range of £150 to about £200.

There are also a wide variety of methods that can be used to clear blockages from an outside drain which will also play a key role in the final cost of the service. These methods include drain jetting which usually costs within the range of £70 to £175, drain rodding from £80 to about £145 as well as a full system scrub which should cost about £150 to £200.

It is, however, important to note that the above costs are just an estimate and other factors as mentioned earlier on will also have an influence on the final price.