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A big benefit to concrete is that you can paint it, making it easy to customise and coordinate with your outside area. However, it’s easy to resurface it too, so if you change your mind or inherit a patio that’s the wrong colour, you don’t need to worry.

Start by cleaning the surface with water and a brush. If you come up against any tough stains, you might need to use a detergent and water mix to remove them. Then you can prepare your resurfacer.

Generally, it’s best to apply resurfacer to a moist surface, although make sure you follow the instructions on the specific product you buy. You’ll need to mix the resurfacer with water, then pour and spread it on with a trowel or brush. You might need to apply multiple coats, and can add texture if you want to make the surface more grippy.

Ensure you protect any expansion joints in your patio with duct tape or weather stripping to stop the resurfacer from filling them in. You can also add a colour agent to your resurfacer before you apply it if you’d like to customise the colour.

The short answer is yes, you can definitely have underfloor heating with wooden floor! Now you’re probably thinking wood and heat don’t mix right? Well, that’s true but here, there’s a way around it. The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. So, how do you go about it? In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of installing underfloor heating with wooden floors. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

• Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
• Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
• Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
• Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
• Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
• Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
• Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
• Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
• Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

How Much Do Plasterer’s Charge?

If you’re look to plaster your walls, one of the first things that’ll come to mind is the cost to complete the project so you can set a budget and start planning as soon as possible. However, the amount charged by plasterer, just like other tradesmen, is based on a number of factors. These factors include how urgent the project is, how long it’ll take as well as what materials are needed. Some of the other influencing factors of plastering jobs include the accessibility of the location, the size of the wall to be plastered and also the current condition of the old plaster. Therefore, you can expect a plaster work of multiple rooms with deteriorating old plaster to be more expensive than a simple refresh of a single wall in a relatively good condition.

It’s likely you’d also get the average cost per room reduce when you require the plastering of several rooms. As a result, to get a final price for your plastering work, you’ll have to call in a qualified and experienced tradesman who’ll consider all the unique requirements of your project and provide a suitable quote.

✓ Medium sized room plastering. A medium sized room would be a room that’s roughly between 3.5m by 5m or one that can comfortable accommodate up to 8 individuals. This will cost within the range of £520 to £870.

✓ Small sized room plastering. Small room such as small kitchens, box bedrooms, utility rooms and the likes will require less plaster but more intricacy with the plasterer having to work in tight spaces. This will cost within the range of £215 to £370.

Laying of bricks is a skilful trade which requires the bricklayer to fully understand the process involved in the required building material preparation necessary to construct a foundation as well as to mix the concrete or mortar. As a tradesperson, you also need to fully comprehend how to make use of various materials and master the art of shaping, polishing and cutting it. A typical bricklaying endeavour is expected to include different activities such as preparation of the surface, assembly, installation, reinforcement as well as repair.

As a result, every aspect of the job demands an in depth and extensive knowledge, skills and also experience. To get started in this career path, you can also consider getting a bricklaying license as this will stand you out from the lots from your customer’s point of view. However, to obtain a bricklaying license, you’ll need to have some qualifications which includes an industry experience in the field as well as a trade certificate. These formal and nationally recognized qualifications can be gotten through the Recognition of Prior Learning.

It must, however, be said that several states will require either a building practitioner registration or a bricklaying license to enable you practice as a professional bricklayer in order to ensure that the national standards for quality is always met. In other states, a bricklayer must meet some certain registration requirements or possess concrete licenses. Some will necessitate that you register as a building practitioner to take on certain projects but only to a particular level.

Overall, a bricklaying license will help you meet the building commission’s requirements so as to avoid stern punishments like fines and sanctions. It also allows you to sign legal contracts and agreements, market your services and lots more to steer ahead of competition in the industry.

Artexing a ceiling can be a tricky job, but whether you’re considering hiring a professional or DIY, it’s helpful to know how it’s done.

Artex is available either in a paste or powder form. The paste is ideal if you’re making small repairs or additions to an existing ceiling. But, if you have a whole ceiling to cover, the powder is more cost effective. When you’re ready to get started, you’ll need to mix the powder up with cold water according to the instructions.

It’s possible to artex over plaster, plasterboard or paint. If you have a plasterboard surface, you should tape and fill any joints or cracks before you begin. Plaster and plasterboard both require a coat of sealant or primer first. You can usually artex straight over paint, but any gloss paint should be sanded down, and any dark paints covered with a layer of white.

Artexing can get quite messy, so make sure you empty the room you’re working in as much as possible, lay down sheets and wear protective clothing and glasses. You might want to practice on a piece of board before you start on the ceiling.

Start by using a brush or roller to cover a 500 square cm area with a generous layer of artex. Then use a brush, comb or roller to create your chosen texture. Every time you do a new section of ceiling, try to blend it with the other sections you’ve done. Don’t be tempted to cover the whole ceiling before you start adding texture – the artex will dry too quickly for you to do it all in time.

Artex usually needs 12-24 hours in a well-ventilated space to dry completely.

Did you just purchase a double glazed window and confused about how to have it installed? Fitting the window yourself can be quite easy with the help of this step by step guide. However, if you lack proper training or experience, we’d recommend you reach out to a trustworthy professional who can guarantee the best results for help. That said, now let’s take a look at the process.

• Remove the old windows by detaching the old beading and glass window safely. Then make some interval cuts using a hand saw before using a crowbar to pry it out.

• Cut the external double glazed window seal. Once done, take a measurement of the window area’s width once empty. Then transfer the measurement to the window sil to face outside and cut using a handsaw.

• Seal the window sil. Add a bead of clear silicone along both inside lip as well as the centre to seal the sil.

• Screw the double glazed window to the sil. Position the window on the top of the lipped section that was siliconed. Then pre-drill them together and screw in three places. You should make sure the screws do not go totally to the sil’s bottom.

• Install the double glazed window. After successfully screwing the double glazed window to the sil, you can now fit in the double glazing. Make use of packers to make sure it’s even in the slot.

• Screw the uPVC window to the wall. If you’re happy and satisfied with the position of the window, you can then pre-drill through the frame of the window and the brick wall. Once done, simply screw it in place using masonry screws or Spax screw as they do not require crawl plugs in bricks.

• Seal around the window. To do this, simply fill any gaps with expanding foam, wipe out the excess and seal with silicone.

By replacing the single glazed windows in your home you stand to make savings of around £170 each year. It’s not just the financial gain that makes double glazing attractive though and you can also save up to 680kg of carbon emissions annually. Over 20 years this is a saving of around £3,400 and 13,600kg of CO2.