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Commercial roofing simply refers to any roofing work, including installation and repair, that is done to commercial buildings. This might include office roofs, shop roofs or commercial unit roofs. Every building needs a roof to keep out the rain!

Since looks aren’t usually the first priority with commercial buildings, lots of commercial properties have flat roofs. These are often made from felt, EDPM rubber or fibreglass. Felt is the cheapest commercial roofing material, while fibreglass tends to be the most expensive. In felt roofs, roofers use an adhesive to stick roofing felt onto a frame. EDPM rubber roofs have a rubber membrane that is laid down and glued onto the roof and coated with a contact adhesive, while fibreglass uses a cut glass fibre mat that is pressed on before a resin and topcoat are applied.

Not all roofing companies will offer commercial roofing services, because generally the buildings tend to be bigger. Small companies won’t have enough tradespeople to work on a roof without making it very expensive for you. Commercial buildings also tend to need more scaffolding to make it safe for the professionals to work, so some smaller roofing companies won’t offer commercial services. Make sure you check a company’s website or social media if you’re looking for commercial roofing – on the Quotatis Directory, our roofers will show whether they do commercial roofing to make your search easier.

The level of damage caused depends on the varieties, the size of the problem, and what has been ravaged. Not all woodworm is harmful. Nonetheless, if left unattended in time, woodworm can seriously weaken hardwood, triggering severe damages within its framework.

Now, weakened structural elements can give way resulting in a huge repair service cost or at worse; severe injury. It is therefore that a woodworm problem is a significant issue if found in:

• Lumber joists
• Load-bearing timber
• Roofing
• Rafters
• Structural timber

As mentioned, there are numerous consider figuring out the influence and level of an invasion and this requires to be verified by a specialist before any kind of action is taken.

How To Install A Gas Cooktop In An Island

Are you thinking about installing a gas cooktop in your kitchen island? If yes, then you must know that there are clearance requirements that must be met (before you proceed) between the cut out and the countertop’s edge. Basically, there are incremental requirements for island installation due to the fact that it does not make an assumption that the product is going to be fitted against a rear wall that acts to protect the back of the unit. As a result, while doing an island install we must put the safety of the product into consideration much more that we do a standard install. What’s more? This island clearance requirement develops from a third-party agency and is a standard with all brands. So how do you install a gas cooktop in an island having the aforementioned requirements in mind?

• Use a foil tape to line the inside edges of the cut out. The function of this is to prevent heat damage as well as countertop’s discolouration. Put the cooktop top on a secured surface.

• Identify the pipe coming out of the cooktop’s side or bottom and brush onto the threads of the manifold entrance.

• Pass the pressure regulator onto the entrance of the manifold and make use of a wrench to tighten it.

• Brush the pipe joint compound onto one of the flare union adaptor’s threads and pass it into the regulator’s open end. Make it slightly tight with a full turn of the wrench.

• Connect the flare union adaptor’s open end with the flexible appliance connector hose, upon brushing on pipe joint compound.

• Put foam tape on the cooktop underside’s edges, if your cooktop comes with a glass burner plate.

• Turn the cooktop to set it into the cutout.

• Apply pipe-joint compound onto the flare union adaptor left and secure it firmly into the gas shutout valve.

• Connect the flexible hose connector’s free end with the flare union adaptor.

If you get the right size boiler for your business and you get it serviced regularly, your boiler could last up to 15 years. It may even last longer than this, but you’ll find that your boiler begins to become less efficient as it gets older. Also, as technology improves, a boiler older than 15 years may not be the most efficient one on the market.

To ensure your boiler is functioning efficiently and to keep your home warm, it’s important to see that your boiler is serviced on a regular basis by a licensed boiler engineer. Failure to do this can result in sudden boiler breakdown which can be a hard hitting blow to one’s financial power especially when there’s no boiler cover to cushion the blow or totally avoid it all together.

When your boiler is covered, it implies that you’re protected in the event whereby your boiler or it’s controls malfunctions or break. Several boiler cover will include the servicing cost, while some may not so it’s advisable to always go through the details, no matter how small, before entering into a boiler cover agreement. Typically, a boiler cover will cost between £60 to £100 per year and the payment is made on a monthly basis. Various boiler insurance companies have varying cover cost, however, here are the common boiler cover policies:

• Homeserve charges from £13 per month

• EDF Energy costs from £13.29 per month

• British Gas from £12 per month

• Scottish Power from £13.13 every month

• CETRI UK charges from £13.50 every month

• 24/7 home rescue costs from £9.60 every month

• Gorgi Home Plan costs from £6 per month plus 3 months free

• Your repair charges from £9.60 per month

• NPower Boiler Cover costs from £10.92 every month

• SSE Boiler Breakdown Cover charges from £4.95 every month

It’s important to note that sometimes you have the option of adding your boiler cover to your existing home insurance, if you do not want a standalone policy for your boiler cover. In many scenarios, this is referred to as an extra or add on service referred to as “Home Emergency Cover. When compared to the standalone boiler policies, this is usually a lot cheaper as it comes in around £5 per month.

If you find out there’s asbestos in your property, it’s not always necessary to remove it. Asbestos is relatively low-risk if it’s contained in a material. This means that, if the material it’s in is in good condition, it shouldn’t be a problem.

However, if a material containing asbestos is damaged, or you want to remove, sand or drill into it, it’s best to have it removed by a licensed professional.

Artex was originally made using white asbestos to make it stronger. However, this stopped in the mid-1980s, and the use of asbestos was banned in the UK in 1999, due to its extreme health risks. So, any artex you buy today won’t contain asbestos.

If you have an artex ceiling or wall that was created before 1999, it may have asbestos in it. This won’t be a health hazard if you leave it undisturbed, so it’s not necessary to remove it. However, if you want to get rid of or alter your artex ceiling or wall, you must get it tested to check if it has asbestos in or not first. If it does, you’ll need to hire a qualified professional to work on it.

Have you being considering the options available to you for removing the conifers around your home? Or perhaps you’re just planning to raise some structures in an area where you have lots of conifer trees. Regardless of your reason for wanting to remove a conifer tree, you’ve come to the right place!

There are multiple options to remove a conifer tree based on the one that best suits your needs. Some individuals are okay with felling the tree and leaving the stumps behind, while others don’t just want both the tree and the stumps so they poison the tree and subject the stumps to a quick rotting process.

lThe Physical Method

This basically involves felling the trees with the help of powerful machines and other tools. Let’s take a look!

• Early preparation. Get your chainsaw ready alongside your pruning tools as well as other equipments that can prove to be useful.

• Determine the direction you want the tree to fall. You must ensure there’s no passerby risk or risk of damage to any property whatsoever.

• Cut down the trunk. Put your chainsaw to use. First cut doen the branches and twigs before felling the tree.

• Choose your cutting technique depending on the tree’s size, slope and chainsaw available.

• Check for possible infestation before removing the conifer tree.

• Remove the conifer stumps by grinding the stumps out (use a grinder) and setting fire to consume the stumps.

lThe Chemical Method

To carry out this process, you need to first cut down the large tree branches using a chainsaw. Once done, cut off a portion around the circumference of the trunk below the lower branches, close to the root. Leave the bark’s strips connected to the conifer tree to expose the inner tissue.

Mix the chemicals and apply into the conifer tree directly until the whole surface is covered. This will make the conifer tree to die off gradually for a couple of weeks.