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How to repair a flat roof depends on the type of flat roof you have. We’ll talk about how to repair felt, asphalt, fibreglass and EDPM flat roofs yourself. But ultimately if you want the best finish, it’s best to ask a professional to repair your flat roof for you. Repairing a flat roof Whether you’ve got an old pour-and-roll type felt roof or a newer torch-on felt flat roof, you can get cracks, lifting around joints, leaks or dips. As a temporary measure, you can buy a special paint that you paint over cracks. For a more permanent repair, you can add a patch of torched-on felt or add a layer on top. Asphalt flat roof repair As your asphalt flat roof gets older, you may notice blisters, cracks or shrinkage and sagging around flashings. Again, you can use a paint on fix from a tin as a temporary repair, or add heat-applied flashing tape around flashing. For a more permanent fix you can use a liquid system, but many are only available to the trade market. You can also add a patch of torched-on roofing felt over a crack. How to repair a fibreglass (GRP) flat roof Fibreglass flat roofs are usually excellent, but problems can involve leaking flashing and cracks near upstands, trims or board joints. You can add acrylic sealant to cracks or holes for a good DIY repair, but a flashing problem is more difficult to fix. You’ll need to clean and sand the affected area of flashing, then laminate a 600g chopped strand mat into place, cure it and add a topcoat colour to match the roof. That sounds like a job better left to a specialist. EDPM rubber flat roof repair Rubber roofs often suffer from shrinkage when mechanical fixings haven’t been used near upstands, flashing leaks or holes or cuts. If you’ve got a small tear that you want to repair, you can add some lap sealant to the area – but use it sparingly. For a more permanent repair to flashing, buy some self-adhesive flashing that will mould into shape easily. Clean the area you want to repair, add EDPM primer, then stick the patch of flashing on from the centre outwards with a hard roller. You can add lap sealant around the edges if you want more protection from water.

You must use a builder or scaffolding outworker who is skilled and knowledgeable to put up scaffolding. This means they require to have the essential skills, knowledge and familiarity to be able to accomplish health and safety. A capable scaffolder will hold an effective Construction Industry Record Scheme (CISRS) Card – it is up to your agent to check that this person is capable before any work begins.

When should scaffolding be checked for safety?

According to the law, the user of the scaffolding must check it to ensure that it is safe:

• Before they first use it

• After every seven days after putting it is up

• After any alterations, or damage due to extreme weather conditions

When do you need scaffolding?

It is up to your trader to evaluate the level of hazard and use a suitable apparatus. Repairing or replacing a single tile is never going to be same as installing solar panels that are high up 30 storeys high. Everything is dependent on the type of work and the risks involved. Traders need to guarantee that their staff will remain safe as they work on your property. This means working from the ground if possible. If they need to work at higher altitudes, they must minimise the danger of falling by using present safe roof zones or scaffolding.

You wouldn’t need a license if your builder has to put up scaffolding inside your property premises. However, if the scaffolding has to go out on the pavement or anywhere outside your premises, your builder or scaffolder needs to get a license from the building council.

Insurance

Scaffolders face an inimitable set of hazards due to working at high altitudes. Builders or scaffolding organizations require insurance that covers those risks, together with public liability insurance to cover any damage to the public triggered by falling items from the scaffold as well as employers’ liability insurance to cover their persons if they are wounded while working at height. This is an important thing to check before any other work begins.

Composite front doors offer a wide range of benefits which includes numerous style and colour options, increased security, personalization options, durability as well as low maintenance requirements. However, with so many options available in the market, it’s also expected that the prices would vary greatly depending on many factors. These factors include the colour, style of the composite door, glazing option, door furniture as well as security locks.

• Colour - More popular and basic colours like white, blue and brown black are manufactured in mass, making them a bit lesser than the unusual colours as they usually go through an expensive colour mixing process.

• Style Of The Door - The most common and popular door styles are manufactured in large quantities and consequently, the cheaper option than the more complex styles. A good example is the six panel door that features two frosted glass inlays will definitely cost more than the four panel plain white composite door.

• Glazing Option - The glass type, design and panel size all play a huge role in determining the price. The more complex your glazing option is, the more money you’ll have to pay.

• Door Furniture - Several composite doors come with bespoke handles, letterplates and knockers to achieve your desired finish. The furniture additions on door can also play a huge role in influencing the overall cost of your composite door.

• Security Locks - Multi point locks typically comes as a standard. However, you might need to determine the type required by your as the quality and type can vary considerably.

Generally, to have a basic style composite door installed, you’ll have spend about £850 and above. And depending on the design requirements and glazing features you select, this price can increase significantly.

Do you have a busy household or a thriving business? When you have a carpeted stairs faced with a high traffic on a regular basis, you know its going to take quite a beating over time. As a result, the carpet tends to start looking tired and worn out almost immediately especially if it isn’t designed to withstand such an heavy usage. Hence, the importance of taking an extra little time when deciding on which new stair carpet or stair runners to purchase and install so as to identify those with sturdier properties which are designed to last and also durable. This way, regardless of the amount of traffic it faces on a regular basis, it’ll always stay looking smart and healthy with good maintenance efforts. In this post, we’re going to consider the best carpet for stairs with a high foot traffic. Let’s take a look!

When looking for a good carpet for a heavy traffic stairs, you need to be able to identify hard-wearing stair carpet runners most of which will be clearly labelled as such. These carpets are designed to handle a high level of footfalls primarily because of the way they’re manufactured and materials incorporated. These materials include sisal (one of the best materials to look out for when you’re shopping for a hard-wearing stair carpet) and polypropylene which is an extremely popular material used in hard-wearing carpets due to its incredible features.

Apart from the materials incorporated, a lot of the strength and resilience also comes from the way in which the fibres are constructed and woven. The most reliable types of carpet weaves to look out for when choosing a high traffic stair carpet runner includes flatweave, wilton weave as well as needlepunch.

The size of boiler you need will depend on the size of your commercial property, how many radiators and bathrooms you have and how appliances willl need hot water at the same time. The boiler size refers to its output, which is measured in kilowatts (kW), rather than the actual dimensions. Speak to your boiler engineer about which boiler is suitable for you, as if you have more than one bathroom or a lot of people in your home a combi boiler might not suit you.

The short answer is yes, you can definitely have underfloor heating with wooden floor! Now you’re probably thinking wood and heat don’t mix right? Well, that’s true but here, there’s a way around it. The floor heating system possesses a flat ribbon located underneath which be installed directly underneath wooden floors without the need for any additional subfloor preparation. It happens to be one of the few systems that can function as a primary heat without the need for screeds. So, how do you go about it? In this post, we’re going to take you through the process of installing underfloor heating with wooden floors. Let’s take a look!

To get started, you’ll only require a little preparation and this involves making sure that the surface area is dust and debris free. Once done, you’re ready to go.

• Spread your 6mm therm-all insulation and make sure it covers the entire floor.
• Put the ribbon underfloor heating mats on the insulation
• Use the double sided tape on the under floor heating mats to attach them to the insulation
• Make use of high adhesive take where needed to make sure the heating mats are secured.
• Route the cold leads ( live and neutral ) to a junction box right above the skirting board level.
• Examine whether or not the resistance level of the heating elements matches with the resistance chart in the installation manual
• Link the cold leads with a 5 lever quick connectors
• Install the wooden floor directly over the top of the heating mats
• Due to the dangers involved while working with electricity, it’s advisable to call in a reliable and professional electrician to help with the setting up of the electrics.

In general uPVC is used for soffits and fascias as it is very strong and durable. It also requires very little maintenance. However, wood can be used and is still popular on listed properties as it retains the original material. Older and listed buildings may require more traditional materials to be used.