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How Much To Tile A Bathroom?

Are you thinking about doing a full renovation or just a facelift of one of the most used rooms in your home - the bathroom? Thanks to its little maintenance requirements, tiling is the most obvious choice for wet areas as well as the popular decoration option for bathrooms. So if you’re planning to tile your bathroom how much is it going to cost?

Just like several other home improvement options, the cost of tiling a bathroom is influenced by a wide range of factors which makes it almost impossible to provide a single, accurate answer to the question. These factors include the size of your bathroom, the materials to be used, the professional tiling company hired and many more.

To calculate the cost of your bathroom tiling, you’ll need to determine the size of the area to be tiled. Simply work out the number of tiles you’ll need by multiplying the width and height and include about 10 percent to cover for possible errors. Generally, tiles can cost from £5 to £20 and more depending on your choice of design. Other materials you’ll have to purchase include tile adhesive, grout and silicone. If you don’t have the necessary tools make sure to get a tile cutter, measuring tape as well as a mixing bucket.

If you want to hire a professional for your bathroom tiling project, you should also consider any work that’ll need to be done before fitting the tiles such as the removal of the old tiles. This can have a great impact on the labour cost, so if you’re intending to save some money you can start by removing the old tiles yourself. Overall, depending on your location and the tiler’s experience can expect to incur about £20 to £40 per square metre. However, some tradesmen can charge a daily rate of about £150 to £200.

If you’re looking at the possibility of installing a satellite dish on your chimney, then you’ve come to the right place! First and foremost, it should be noted that chimney mounts are mostly incorporated for individuals who desires the installation of an antenna at the highest point of their roofs without having to drill holes in the roof. This is quite popular as they’re able to ensure an easy installation and also works incredibly well for several antennas. What about satellite dish? Can it also be mounted on a chimney? Let’s take a look!

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, a satellite dish can be installed on a chimney. However, it must be said that this installation is not advisable. Unlike antennas, satellite dishes are aimed much more precisely. While antennas can be positioned as far as 15 degrees off the main aim before the reception is affected, satellite dishes, on the other hand, need to be positioned about one half of one degree in order to allow for a good operation. This is mainly because the broadcast tower you’re aiming your antenna at is, at most, 75 miles away compared to satellite dishes which are aimed at broadcast towers which are at least 22,000 miles away and that’s even if you happen to be directly under one.

Installing a satellite dish on a chimney will make it difficult for you to get it secure enough to have it properly aimed. This isn’t to say it won’t work at first, but most times, winds will probably drive the satellite dish off the target in little time.

1. If you’re cutting artificial grass at a fence or wall, fold over the turf so you can see where the backing material meets the edge.
2. Using a very sharp pen knife, cut the backing material into the perimeter, using it to guide the blade.
3. Push the artificial grass back against fence or wall and check that you’ve cut away enough. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and cut less to begin with.
4. When you’re happy, brush the pile to make it look natural.

Oil stains on your concrete driveway can look obvious and unsightly. However, there are several different ways to remove them.

If you’ve only just spilled the oil, you can use a mixture of absorbent material, like sawdust, and solvent, like acetone or lacquer. Combine these, place them on the stain, cover and leave for about 24 hours. Then sweep up the mixture and rinse the area with water.

If you’ve got a small, older stain, you can use a detergent like baking soda, vinegar, washing up liquid or laundry detergent. Cover the stain with the detergent and leave for about 30 minutes. Then, add hot water and scrub the area and rinse. You might need to repeat this if necessary.

If it’s a larger, more stubborn stain, you might need to use a special degreaser. You can use this similarly to a detergent but make sure you follow the instruction on the bottle carefully.

If you have a loft, then the next thing that’s crucial is a loft insulation. Asides from cutting down on your carbon footprint, when you’re able to install an effective loft insulation you can slash your heating bills by up to £250 per year. What’s more? Besides making your home more energy efficient, it can also increase the value of your property a great deal. So if you’re also considering the insulation of your loft, one of the few things that comes to mind is, what loft insulation is the best to incorporate? In order to help you make the best informed decision possible, this post is going to address this issue and put you on the right path.

In truth, there’s no way to say exactly which type of insulation is the best as all types usually have a different purpose as well as usage. The insulation you choose for your home’s loft is be based largely on the how you’re going to make use of the space as well as any unique challenges you might face given the shape of your home’s loft. Below are some types of insulation to give you a better idea:

• Blanket insulation. This is the most common type that comes in rolls of rock, glass or mineral fibre ( or foil-backed felt ). It normally the most affordable and also a good all-purpose insulation which is easy to fit although not suitable for the roof.
• Loose-fill insulation. This type of insulation features a loose, lightweight material such as cork granules, cellulose fibre, mineral wool etc. It can either be incorporated as a top up or on its own. The primary drawback is it isn’t very secure and can also be very messy.
• Sheet insulation. This is the best solution for the roof’s underside as it offers a highly effective insulation for your loft space and can also be decorated over. The drawback here is that it’s usually the most expensive type to purchase and install.

Can I Repair My Own Gas Boiler?

If you’re more of an handy person, then you’d probably want to fix everything you can around the house while saving yourself some money that would have been spent on hiring a professional instead. This is a very cost effective but at the same time you must know that some tasks are usually more difficult than others, and a good example of those complex tasks is boiler repair. Not only can this be very tough, but they can also potentially be one of the most dangerous home appliances you can acquire. So with that in mind, what can be done to ensure your gas boiler is taken care of and in the event whereby it starts to malfunction, what can be done to remedy the situation?

With regular maintenance and repair of your gas boiler, you’d have absolutely nothing to worry about. However one of the fear several DIYers have is the fact that they might just end up incurring more expenses on services they didn’t really need in the first place. But when it comes to gas boilers, it’s necessary to be certified to work with them as it’s very dangerous to tackle it all by yourself. Despite this, there are still some minor issues that you wouldn’t need to hire a technician to resolve. In some cases, all that would be needed is simply to reset the boiler. To identify where the reset button is, simply go through your boiler’s manual for more information. Most times, all you’ll have to do is press down the reset button for a couple of seconds. If the boiler isn’t fully restored to its normal proper functioning state after two resets, then you may need to call in a professional for help.

Periodic testing and inspections should be completed: Every 10 years for your home, Every five years for rented accommodation, Every three years for a caravan, Every year for a swimming pool.Electrical inspections are also carried out when buying, selling or renting a property.

How To Lay Loft Boards

Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?

Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.

• Get The Right Tools & Equipment

The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.

• Work Out The Area

Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.

• Start Laying

Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.

• Make It Permanent

Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.