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How to repair a flat roof depends on the type of flat roof you have. We’ll talk about how to repair felt, asphalt, fibreglass and EDPM flat roofs yourself. But ultimately if you want the best finish, it’s best to ask a professional to repair your flat roof for you. Repairing a flat roof Whether you’ve got an old pour-and-roll type felt roof or a newer torch-on felt flat roof, you can get cracks, lifting around joints, leaks or dips. As a temporary measure, you can buy a special paint that you paint over cracks. For a more permanent repair, you can add a patch of torched-on felt or add a layer on top. Asphalt flat roof repair As your asphalt flat roof gets older, you may notice blisters, cracks or shrinkage and sagging around flashings. Again, you can use a paint on fix from a tin as a temporary repair, or add heat-applied flashing tape around flashing. For a more permanent fix you can use a liquid system, but many are only available to the trade market. You can also add a patch of torched-on roofing felt over a crack. How to repair a fibreglass (GRP) flat roof Fibreglass flat roofs are usually excellent, but problems can involve leaking flashing and cracks near upstands, trims or board joints. You can add acrylic sealant to cracks or holes for a good DIY repair, but a flashing problem is more difficult to fix. You’ll need to clean and sand the affected area of flashing, then laminate a 600g chopped strand mat into place, cure it and add a topcoat colour to match the roof. That sounds like a job better left to a specialist. EDPM rubber flat roof repair Rubber roofs often suffer from shrinkage when mechanical fixings haven’t been used near upstands, flashing leaks or holes or cuts. If you’ve got a small tear that you want to repair, you can add some lap sealant to the area – but use it sparingly. For a more permanent repair to flashing, buy some self-adhesive flashing that will mould into shape easily. Clean the area you want to repair, add EDPM primer, then stick the patch of flashing on from the centre outwards with a hard roller. You can add lap sealant around the edges if you want more protection from water.

Some paving projects require you to cut paving slabs to make them fit into a smaller space. To do this, firstly you need to measure the slab and draw a line in pencil or chalk where you want to cut.

There are then several different ways you can cut the slab – you or your professional can choose the one you or they are most happy with. A hammer and chisel can work well, or a handheld saw. You can also use an angle grinder fitted with a stone-cutting disc.

The process you need to go through to install a TV aerial depends on the type of aerial you have. If you have an indoor aerial, it’s simple. Just plug the aerial into your TV and stand it up next to it. If the signal isn’t right, then try moving your aerial closer to a window or higher up. Make sure you rescan for channels every time you move it so you know if you’ve made an improvement. It’s also fairly easy to install a loft TV aerial – just take it up into your loft and position it in a convenient place. Again, experiment with angles and positions to ensure you get the best signal. Installing an outdoor TV aerial is a little trickier. Ideally, try to fix your aerial to a wall or chimney at a gable end – this will be much easier to access than a chimney in the middle of the roof. Follow the instructions that come with your aerial for mounting it – it’s usually best to lash your aerial on rather than use screws. If you’re not used to working at height or aren’t confident doing your own aerial installation work, it’s best to get in touch with a professional.

Aluminium conservatories are really easy to maintain, making them a top choice for many homeowners. Unlike wooden conservatories, they don’t need regular treatment to ensure they don’t deteriorate.

The most you’ll need to do to keep your aluminium conservatory looking great is give the frames and glass an odd wipe with water and a mild detergent to get rid of any occasional dirt.

Chimneys are certainly on top of the commonly overlooked features when it comes to cleaning a house. This is quite understandable given the fact that they’re not readily accessible and not in plain sight, hence, home and property owners tend to overlook the relevance of any chimney cleaning effort. But this can be a grave mistake! The importance of having your chimney swept on a regular basis cannot be over emphasized and even more so if it happens to be on a wood burner. Not only can a dirty chimney constitute fire hazard, but when left uncleaned it can also give rise to blockages which can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning. In fact, from 2014 to 2018, one of the top factors contributing to about 25% of home heating fires is due to lack of cleaning, mainly from solid-fueled heating equipment, mostly chimneys. Therefore, sweeping your chimney regularly is a safety precaution and when they happen to be on a wood burner, this exercise becomes a lot more important. With that in mind, the question that arises is just how often is sweeping of a chimney on a would burner needed?

Well, it’s strongly advisable to sweep chimney on a wood burner at least twice a year by a qualified professional depending on the usage. If you happen to own an oil burning fireplace, the same also applies. In other words, this means that regardless of the type of chimney you possess, the cleaning must be done regularly. However, most chimney would only need to be swept once in a year by a qualified professional.

How To Tile Conservatory Roof

If you’re thinking about replacing your old conservatory roof with a tiled one, you’d probably want to know how you can go about it. Tiling of a conservatory roof comes with a plethora of benefits with the most significant one being a much improved insulation which helps you save money on heating bills. This activity is also, however, a task that is best done by a professional. It requires working at height which can be very dangerous and also demands a particular set of skills as well as confidence to make the project a safe and successful one. In other words, if you lack any of the aforementioned attributes, then we’d strongly recommend that you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this article, we’ll walk you through the conservatory roof tiling process.

✓ Remove the existing roof. As you would have guessed, the first step is to remove the old existing roof and dispose off in an environmental friendly way.

✓ Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) rafters are fitted so as to develop the structural frame for the new solid roof.

✓ Waterproofing. The next step is to add 100% waterproof sheets under the GRP rafters.

✓ Insulation. Once the waterproof sheets have been installed, it’s then time to fit the insulation boards making sure that there’s a 15mm gap between the boards and the waterproof sheets.

✓ Outer sheets. To minimize the number of roofing bars and increase the conservatory’s efficiency, you’ll have to include the outer sheets at this stage.

✓ Tiling. This is the final step in the process. Add the tiles to the conservatory roof and make sure that they’re firmly secured. This wouldn’t take forever as most conservatories are not that big in size.

Scarification is the name given to the process where you remove excess thatch and moss from your lawn to encourage it to grow and look healthy. Although it sounds difficult, it’s actually pretty easy – simply grab a sturdy rake and apply moderate pressure to rake out moss, thatch and dead grass. Then collect it up and add to your compost heap if you have one. You can also use a petrol or electric rake, but you just want to tease out the moss and thatch. Don’t be tempted to go deep into the grass, as this could damage your lawn. So when should you scarify your lawn? The experts say that the best time is in the autumn, when the grass is actively growing and it’s not too hot, cold or dry. Most of summer’s weed seeds will have gone, so you won’t encourage weeds to grow in the raked-up soil. This soil also makes an ideal seed bed for over seeding with new grass seed, so that’s why you don’t want to get weeds in there as well. However, you may also carry out light scarification in the spring – usually around April. Make sure you don’t go too far though – as you will end up with a rather disfigured lawn if you scarify too heavily and the dryness of summer stops the lawn from recovering. It’s also best to scarify your lawn in the spring if the following apply:

• If you couldn’t do it the previous autumn – if you keep putting it off, you might end up with extreme moss and weed growth
• If your lawn is shaded – these areas will thin over winter and start to thicken from spring onwards, so if you scarify in the autumn you’ll make your lawn even thinner.
• If your lawn is under trees – pair the shade from the trees with the fall of leaves in the autumn and your grass won’t be healthy, but in the spring the trees are bare, allowing lots of light onto your lawn to help it grow.

Have you laid your tile and left it to set? If yes, then the next step is to start grouting. Before you get started there’s a need to make ready the right grout for the type of your grout as well as background material. If you’re not certain of the right grout you can reach out to the grout manufacturer for help. Grouting of floor tiles is not the easiest and tasks and should be left to a reputable professional in order to avoid costly mistakes and unnecessary costs. In this post, we’re going to take you through the processes involved in grouting of floor tiles in order to put you on the right track. Let’s take a look!

1. Depending on the adhesive used to lay your tiles, make sure you leave enough time for the tiles to fully set.
2. Get a mixing bucket and mix grout powder and water as instructed on the packaging. Ensure not to make too much as this will make it solidify quickly and unstable.
3. Apply some grout on the tiles - hold the grout float at 45 degree angle and apply the grout to fill all of the joints.
4. Once you’re done grouting all of the joints between the tiles, leave it for up to 10 to 15 minutes to dry before wiping down the tile surface using a damp sponge. Ensure not to apply too much pressure on the grout joints.
5. Let the tiles rest for about an hour so as to allow the grout solidify and harden a bit more. Once done, proceed to take off the excess grout and smooth it off.
6. Wipe down the tiles until they’re totally clean using a clean cloth.