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When it comes to air conditioning, there’s nothing like a one-size-fits-all approach as different buildings have different needs. As a result, there are various types of air conditioners to address unique building requirements. Having a full grasp of the differences between a commercial air conditioner and a residential air conditioner can go a long way to help you in choosing the most appropriate system for your building to ensure all occupants can enjoy the high air quality at the perfect temperature.

Now, while both commercial and residential HVAC systems serve the same purpose of heating, cooling as well as ventilating, they are largely varied in terms of the parts and mechanisms. This is due to the fact that tackling the need for comfort in a home or residential space is very different when compared to a work environment.

First and foremost, there’s usually a distinct physical difference between commercial and residential air conditioners. The residential ones are usually central systems which are linked to a series of ducts, with the evaporator and condenser in separate areas of the property. On the other hand, the commercial systems normally combines both heating and cooling units in one rooftop package that prevents the noise it produces from disturbing the work of the occupants. Having the package on the roof also goes a long way to help the companies free up some physical space.

The main difference between a commercial air conditioner and a residential air conditioner, however, is the amount of power which the system consumes to cool off a space. This is partly because a work environment usually takes up more space than residential environments. As a result, heating and cooling systems that are intended for use in commercial spaces are usually built to be a lot more powerful.

Artex is a type of interior surface coating, similar to plaster. It’s used to create decorative textured finishes on ceilings and walls, so it takes longer to dry than plaster.

Artex is actually a brand name, but it’s used to refer to similar products made by other manufacturers too. It was particularly popular in the 1970s, but is still used to create attractive wall and ceiling finishes today.

Wasps have a black as well as vivid yellow pattern on their abdomen. With a black head, thorax as well as six legs, a grown-up wasp is similar in dimension to an employee honey bee at about 12-15mm in size whereas queens are larger at around 20mm in size.

First and foremost let’s look at the meaning of a ground source heat pump. A ground source heat pump is simply a renewable heating system which happens to absorb the low temperature solar energy stored in the ground or in water with the help of a pipework that’s submerged and converts this energy into a higher temperature through compression. A ground source heating pump is capable of supplying the entire heating and hot water needs of a building throughout a whole year regardless of the season. So how exactly does a ground source heat pump work? Let’s have a look!

In principle, a ground source heating pump makes use of a refrigeration system but in a reverse form as it extracts low temperature heat from one point or location which is the source and transfer a higher temperature heat to another point or location - the sink. The pumps are powered by electricity and the operational principle can also be incorporated at generating both heating and cooling energy.

Knowing fully well heat naturally flows from warmer to cooler places, the ground source heat pump takes advantage of this physics by distributing a cold fluid via ground array pipework either in the ground or in water. It’s able to extract low grade energy from external sources of heat which includes soil, rock, lakes as well as streams.

Once the absorbed energy has been released to the heat pump from the ground or water, the fluid proceeds with its circuit back to the pipework to start its cycle all over again. Some of the benefits of the ground source heat pumps includes low carbon emission and improved air quality, efficient and affordable heating, the use of free heat from the ground and lots more.

A clogged sewer line, when left untreated, can lead to a wide range of serious problems. If the issues arises from a toilet or kitchen sink pipe, then it’s highly likely that it just might be a clogged drain. However, if every flush results in a build up of sewage in your home, then the problem is likely to be in the main sewer line. If you’re looking for ways in which you can unclog your main sewer line without a snake, then you’ve come to the right place. In this post, we’re going to show you just how to go about it. Let’s take a look!

1. Boiling water. If you want a quick and easy fix of your blocked sewer pipe, then this is for you. Simply pour some quantity of boiling water into the drain. In several cases, this will cause the particles causing the blockage to dissolve or loosen without having to resort to more drastic measures. However, it’s advisable to only use this method on either metal or ceramic pipes. Use hot and not boiling water on PVC pipes to prevent heat from loosing its joints.
2. DIY Natural Cleaner. To use this method, simple create a DIY cleaner by incorporating bicarb soda (baking soda) and white vinegar. Pour the baking soda into the sewer pipe and follow it with the vinegar. Once done, cover the sewer pipe to ensure the mixture does not bubble out of the pipe. In some cases, you may need to repeat the process a number of times to make sure that the blockage is properly removed. After completion, simply flush your sewer pipes down with hot water.
3. Plunger. This is a very common option that home owners use in clearing their blocked drains. Firstly, cover all overflow spouts before you start to plunge to get a strong seal. The strong up and down pressure produced by the plunger can go a long way to clear any blockages to ensure your pipes flow uninterruptedly again.

You’ve got to admit it that nothing feels better than knowing your house is spotlessly clean and safe. But even at that, only a few truly have the time to scrub, sanitize and clean their living space from top to bottom. If you don’t have the time or aren’t confident enough to tackle this task, then we’d high recommend you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results to ensure your residential space is looking spick-and-span and totally safe. In this guide, we’re going to walk you through a few home cleaning tips if you’d prefer to handle the task by yourself. Let’s take a look!

• Stock up on supplies. Regardless of your home’s size, there’s a need to get the right products for a successful outcome. For a great result, you’ll have to take an inventory of your cleaning supplies and identify the tools that needs to be replaced such as old sponges, dusters, mops and the likes.
• Start by dusting away dirt. Use a microfibre cloth to wipe clean both obvious and forgotten areas around the house like the top of doors, fans, light fixtures and more. For the stubborn messes that just won’t come off easily like on the kitchen counter or stove, you can introduce baking soda especially in the kitchen area.
• Take on the bathroom. No one likes cleaning the bathroom or toilets, however the cleanliness of your entire house largely depends on how clean your bathroom is, so can as well do it well.
• Vacuuming. Vacuum the stairs, upholstered furnitures and the likes to ensure your home is spotlessly clean.
• Treat the floors properly. This involves sweeping, mopping and treating the floor, in that order.

When it comes to extending your home or creating more living space, you can either construct an extension, transform a current space or add a conservatory. While all the three available options to create more living space in your home are worth giving a shot, the wooden conservatory happens to be the easiest and cheapest of them all. If you are thinking about building wooden conservatory of your own, then you’d probably want to know exactly how much its going to cost. The simple answer is that it depends on multiple factors such as the type of wood required, the size, style as well as the quality of materials to be incorporated in your final conservatory design.

The most significant determinant, however, is the type of wood required. Below is a breakdown of the prices based on this factor:

• Hardwood Conservatory

Hardwood such as elm and beech are one of best options for building conservatories due to their complex structure which helps increase the durability and stability of conservatories. The price of an average hardwood conservatory without fitting usually ranges £10,000 to £15,000.

• Oak Conservatory

Due to its popularity and high availability, oak is a very common wood type used in the construction of conservatories. And as a result, it can be gotten within a range of £9,000 to £10,000 for just the wood. Oak can also be made to be resistant to bugs and pests. The price of this type of oak wooden conservatory jumps to around £15,000 to £20,000.

• Timber Conservatory

This refers to various types of wood that’s readily available before being subjected to treatment in different plants or factories. Due to its rather rough exterior and lack of a clean finish, this type of wood is usually gotten at a giveaway price. Depending on the type of wood, the price to buy just a timber conservatory kit can vary between £10,000 to £20,000.

Click here to learn more about wooden conservatories

It can be rather hard to identify whether woodworm are energetic or whether the damages and also holes are historical, particularly if you buy a product of antique furniture with indicators of woodworm, or if you move right into a new location as well as find some indicators of woodworm. Apart from searching for as well as determining live or dead bugs the major methods of informing if woodworm are energetic are:

• Fresh cleaning or frassing under or beside the holes
• You can see light coloured timber in the holes, which have sharp edges
• Edges of wooden light beams as well as joists are breaking away to reveal fresh, light timber beneath

The hardest part of the procedure is to appropriately diagnose if activity is present or historic so to start with there are some simple indications:

• Brand-new exit openings in timbers, the shapes and size will certainly additionally identify the type of timber uninteresting beetle. The most typical, which is usually refered to as 'woodworm', is the usual furniture beetle (Anobium punctatum) as well as this leaves a rounded hole 1-2mm in size. It does depend on the type of timber however a brand-new opening is often 'intense' with a typical new wood colour where as an older opening might become dark as well as much less smooth.
• Dirt, noticeable bore dirt called 'Frass' listed below the holes is usually the simplest sign of activity as aged dirt will blow away over time. Again the shape of the dirt can additionally aid identify the kind of beetle, Deathe watch beetle dirt has little 'bun' designed pellets noticeable to the naked eye.
• Actual Beetles, on occasion you will certainly locate dead beeltes specifically on window sills as many emerge from springtime to the end of summer though its the Larva that cause one of the most harm with some kinds living and feeding for several years within the wood.
• Crumbling hardwoods, this will certainly most commonly take place on floorboards as they have a tendency to be thinner than roof lumbers or joists and also will escape to the touch.

These are the most convenient signs of activity though there are expert examinations that can be finished most are not cost effective, the dampness material of the lumbers can additionally be an indicator as to whether infestation might take place as fairly completely dry timber will certainly not be susceptible (this would need a deep probe examination).