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Do you want your house to be built using brick? Or perhaps you just require the professional services of a bricklayer. Regardless of your bricklaying needs, the cost charged depends on each job as every job is unique. Bricklayers generally look at each task individually and charges based on the complexity of each. We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of the costs charged by bricklayers. Let’s have a look!

Generally, bricklayers charge either based on a daily rate or a fixed price for a particular amount of bricks ( usually a thousand bricks or 10 - 12 metres square). On the average, an experienced bricklayer can charge within a range of £150 to £200 daily rate and if a labour is needed for the job, an additional £60 to £100 may be included to get the job completed in a quick and fast manner. If the quoting is done based on the number of bricks to be incorporated, then a thousand bricks will be quoted in between £350 to £450 which should be completed in a couple of days.

You should however take note that most times, the bricklayer’s cost will depend on the amount of work involved in the project. As a result, a more tedious and challenging project will most definitely cost more than a simpler one. Examples of some difficult projects that’s likely to cost more are hard to reach areas, difficult sites as well as second storeys which are considered to be more challenging than single storey buildings. What’s more? The complexity of the project is also a great cost factor. While some projects are basically direct and straightforward, others involve curves and more complex designs which will ultimately make the cost jump up.

By replacing the single glazed windows in your home you stand to make savings of around £170 each year. It’s not just the financial gain that makes double glazing attractive though and you can also save up to 680kg of carbon emissions annually. Over 20 years this is a saving of around £3,400 and 13,600kg of CO2.

If you’re looking to plaster your ceiling, one of the most essential parts of the process is cutting the plasterboard. Once you’re able to master this skill, the rest of the plastering is quite easy. This is a task that can be done by any competent DIYer but with a little bit of patience and confidence. If you lack any of these attributes, we’d strongly recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the plasterboard ceiling cutting process. Let’s take a look!

To cut plasterboard ceiling, you don’t need any expensive tool which is usually not the case when it comes to carpentry. If you won’t be cutting a lot of plasterboard, all you really need would be just an old handsaw or plasterboard one, a Stanley knife as well as a straight edge. However, if you’ll be cutting lots of plasterboards, you’ll require the following to make your task a lot easier:

✓ An old handsaw

✓ A Stanley knife and many spare blades

✓ A straight edge like a long spirit level

✓ A surform

✓ A battery drill and oh2 screwdriver bits, with specific plasterboard screws.

To cut plasterboard to length, you’ll have to first score a line on the face side of the board with a straight edge and Stanley knife. Once done, simply lift the sheet off the ground and snap it along the score line. Then, you can run your knife down the other side of the board , cutting the back of the plasterboard backing sheet. Upon completion, your plasterboard is now ready to be fitted on your ceiling.

How To Prep Walls For Painting

This is exactly the part of a wall painting job that can make or mar the whole project. To ensure that your paint project doesn’t end up being disastrous, the most important place to start is from room preparation which includes cleaning, sanding as well as priming the walls before painting. Not every wall will require to go through all the preparation steps as all walls are unique and some are in better conditions than others. However, it’s advisable to thoroughly inspect the surfaces before you proceed to painting and take the necessary actions where required.

This is a very simple DIY job that should be completed in little time, however it’s also perhaps the most important step of the entire painting project. Hence, if you lack the confidence to pull this off, then we’d recommend employing a painting expert who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll should you how you can prepare your wall for painting.

✓ Cleaning. There is no single best way to properly clean a wall, but most walls will be just fine with a sponge and warm water. For walls that have been stained with oil or grime such as kitchen walls, you can apply grease cutting detergent and water mixture to wash and follow up with warm water to clean the residues and a damp cloth wiping to finish it off. Then leave to dry off properly.

✓ Remove mildrew. Wipe out mildrew using a sponge and solution that’s three to four parts water to one part bleach. Apply this solution and scrub the affected surface with a soft brush.

✓ Sanding. This step is only meant for walls with rough spots on its surface. Dull the uneven spots with a sandpaper, wipe away the dust and leave to dry. Use a fine grit sandpaper to sand the surfaces and let it dry properly.

✓ Priming. Prime the wall to get the most out of your paint. They work to disguise imperfections and create a smooth surface on which you can work on.

With the ability of orangeries to create additional space in your home as well as altering the appearance of your property completely, it’s very likely you’ll require a planning permission to construct an orangery. However, with the lengthy and complicated application process, you might want to consider the few exemptions before getting started.

If you’re considering to build an home extension such as an orangery, the obvious first step would be to consider whether or not you’ll need planning permission. And while you tend to get carried away in the thought of adding new beautiful living space, you should never forget to take into account your area’s planning regulation as well as the planning process realities. However, the application process is not one of the most exciting activities any homeowner would like to pass through and even more so when they live in a conservation area or possess a listed property that can even make the process a lot more challenging.

It’s recommended that you consult your plans and ideas with a professional such as an architect, building design company or a chartered surveyor, but there are some options you can put into consideration if you want to avoid the applying for a planning permission.

If you’re sure about not wanting to apply for a planning permission, you’d have to check your area to identify the possible local planning implications and determine whether or not your home has permitted development right which allows for some building works that can be made without the need to apply for a planning permission. To do this, simply check the government’s planning portal to determine whether your project is covered by the permitted development rights or applying for a planning permission would be required. What’s more? You need to determine if your building is listed especially if you live in a period property. For listed building, it can be much more difficult to get a planning permission as you must comply with some very specific regulations.

As an environmentally conscious homeowner, it’s very likely you would have heard of a wood pellet boiler or maybe even considering fitting one in your home or property. So if you’ve heard about wood pellet boilers, you’d probably want to know about it especially how it works. In this article, we’re going to walk you through the wood pellet boilers operating process. Let’s take a look!

✓ Typically, wood pellet boilers possess 4 major components, these includes a burner ( which ignites or burns the pellets), a hopper ( which stores unused pellets), a conveyor ( which works to carry the pellets from the hopper to the burner where its ignited) and lastly, a controller ( which responds automatically to your thermostat and appliances’ demands).

✓ In the event whereby your thermostat demands heat or if you happen to switch on a hot water tap or appliance, pellets will be automatically fed into the burner which in turn ignites it and set the firing rate to match the needed heating load.

✓ In a situation whereby more pellets is needed by your boiler, the vacuum or augur system will act by pulling pellets from your bulk pellet storage bin and automatically refill itself.

✓ The wood pellet boiler will clean the burn pot and heat exchanger areas ( moving ash into the ash bin), during and after the burn cycles. The ash bin will be emptied once for every 2 to 3 ton of pellet that’s ignited.

Other facts about wood pellet boilers

✓ The wood pellet boiler can be directly linked to existing plumbing and heating system, regardless of whether or not there’s an existing heating oil boiler remaining.

✓ Wood pellets can be stored in bulk in a storage bin outside your home as the bins are generally weather resistant and also very durable.

Does your old TV aerial cable have a cut or tear in line? Well, good news is, you don’t have to discard it. When such problems occur, they can lead to loss of conductivity or interference which results in weak or poor reception or even none at all. With a few easily accessible coaxial repair tools which can be obtained from local stores, repairing your aerial cable can require a much less effort than you think. In this post, we’re going to take you through the TV aerial cable repairing process. Let’s take a look!

• Identify the part of your coaxial cable that needs to be repaired. Incorporate wire cutters to make a clean cut across the damaged cable portion.
• Close the RG-6 labeled groove of the crimping tool an inch down the cable and make a complete cut around the exterior part of the cable.
• Cut the exposed aluminum braiding around the insulation to leave the copper filament above the cut portion which is usually surrounded by a white PVC insulation.
• Using the part of the stripping tool labeled “inner, cut between the insulation down to around 1/3 inch. Once done, twist the stripper around the section to get a clean cut and take off the portion that is cut.
• Identify the copper filament positioned at the middle of the cable and surrounded by insulation and thread it through the twist-on connector’s base.
• Strip the damaged coax cable’s other end and add a twist-on connector to it.
• Use a coupler to connect the two repaired cables. To do this, simply screw one end of the first cable to one side of the cable coupler and do the same to the second cable to the other side of the coupler

1. Start in one corner of the sub-frame and position the first board across the inner joists. You want the deck board in the opposite direction to the inner joists, ensuring that it’s flush with the frame. Position any end-to-end joins between the deck boards halfway across an inner joist so you can screw both boards into the joist for stability. Make sure you keep a gap of between 5-8mm to allow for expansion of the wood.
2. Begin to screw your deck boards to the joists. You’ll need to secure the deck board to every joist is covers along your deck frame. Use two screws for every joist. Mark where you’re going to add your screws, ensuring that they are at least 15mm from the end of the board and 20mm from the outside edges. Drill pilot holes for the screws, being careful to only drill through the deck board and not the joist. Then screw the decking screws into the holes.
3. Continue to screw in the deck boards, ensuring you leave the correct expansion gap. You can stagger the deck board joins across the deck for more strength.
4. Sand down any cut ends if you need to before applying decking preserver to protect the timber from rotting.