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Before you start digging, you should know sewer lines are required to be buried within certain specifications and it’s your responsibility to find out what these specifications are. If you’re thinking about the appropriate depth of sewer line, then you’ve come to the right place! In this post we’re going to consider how deep a main sewer line should be buried underground.

First and foremost, you should understand that sewer lines are simply the intestinal systems of a house or property. Their primary function is to totally remove waste water and other waste matter from your drains, toilet, shower, dishwasher as well as the exterior faucets. With this in mind, we can then move to our main concern which is the sewer line depth. In a world that’s perfect, you’d be allowed to to just dig your home’s sewer line deep enough to cover it with a thin layer of sod. However, if you happen to reside in an environment with deep running cold, this inclement weather may just freeze up your waste right in the pipe due to the fact that it’s placed too close to the surface where there’s not enough warmth. This could also extend to other harsh weather conditions such as heavy wind and hurricanes which are able to tear out ground deep down and even more so, if it were to pull up trees that are close by with deep roots. Hence, the need to get the appropriate depth of sewer lines right.

Sewer lines depth can vary greatly - they can be as shallow as 12 to 30 and can be as deep as 6+ feet. This is often determined by the climate.

Satellite TV is a service that provides its customers with a wide range of TV channels by transmitting signals from a communications satellite. Users around the world can pick it up using a satellite dish mounted on their property and connected to their TV. Satellite TV is particularly useful for viewers who live out of aerial and cable TV range in remote areas.

There are a range of variables that will determine which heating system is best for your home, such as the level of insulation and size of rooms. However, electric heating is suitable for many homes. Electric boilers are very compact and do not need a flue. Underfloor heating is effective at heating rooms of any size.

Laying of floor tiles may seem seem to be a very tricky task that’s beyond the abilities of some homeowners, but in reality, it’s a task that most DIYers can handle - as long you don’t rush the process. With a little patience here and there, you’ll be amazed with how far you can go. The materials are quite easy to work with and tools, only requiring a little practice to master. However, if you don’t have the necessary confidence to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend that you call in a professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of laying floor tiles.

• Floor Preparation

✓ The first step is to prepare the floor by moving all objects like mortar, adhesives and more.

✓ Use concrete patching compound to fill ill low spots and cracks, until the floor is levelled.

✓ Ensure the floor is dry and clean.

• Pattern Layout

✓ Take the measurement of each wall’s length while also taking into account the room’s diagonals.

✓ To help place the tiles in an orderly manner, make use of a chalk to mark down lines on the levelled surface in question and ensure it’s parallel to the walls.

• Adhesive Preparation

✓ Mix the appropriate amount of water with the adhesive (bonding agent).

✓ The mixture should be toothpaste-like thick to ensure the durability of the tiles.

• Tiles Placement

✓ Depending on the tile’s size, evenly spread the mortar on the floor using a notched trowel.

✓ Lay the first tile on the bonding agent (adhesive or mortar) and apply a gentle and little pressure on the tile.

✓ Repeat the technique for other tiles using plastic spacers to ensure the edges and corners are properly aligned.

• Tiles Cutting

✓ Cut the tiles (if necessary) with the help of a wet saw or scoring cutter featuring a diamond-tripped blade.

• Grout Application

✓ Filling of the tiles’ gap is done using the grout. It can be applied to the joints with a rubber float.

✓ After application, allow the grout to set up for some minutes.

✓ Use sponge and a bucket of water to clear out any adhesive leftover.

• Grout Sealing

✓ Use a foam brush or applicator bottle for the sealants’ application.

✓ Clean out excess sealer within 10 minutes.

The holy grail of home extensions is basically the need for additional space for living as well as leisure. However, before commencing your home extension project, you’d probably want to know just how big your new building can be. In this article, you’ll find the answer to this question which is also frequently asked by many other home or property owners in the UK.

Besides your budget, there are two other major influencing factors that can determine just how much extra room that can be added. These factors include whether you wish to carry out the extension project under Permitted Development rights which is usually for a smaller project or you’d prefer to opt for a larger project which is covered by Planning Permission.

Apart from the limitations in the size of an extension under Permitted Development, the extensions are also a lot more affordable and consumes less time when compared to the extensions under planning permission. So what exactly is the size limit for an extension under Permitted Development and the ones under Planning Permission?

For a single storey extension, the maximum size that can be constructed without having to submit an application for Planning Permission includes:

• An extension should have a maximum length of 6m, if you reside in a terraced home or a semi-detached property.

• Extensions for detached properties can have a maximum length of 8m.

• The extension built must not go beyond half your garden’s area.

• The extension should have a maximum height of 4 metres, but in the event whereby the extension is situated within 2 metres of the boundary of your property, it should not exceed a height of 3 metres.

• The extension should not be higher than the highest part of the existing house’s roof.

The answer is yes! Houses whose external walls have been insulated are more valuable than their uninsulated counterparts. And not only does it add to the value of a home, but also significantly reduces the amount of electricity consumption. This is a major turn on for potential investors which implies a greater demand and ultimately, a higher price. The real estate market is a very dynamic one which can be hard to predict at any particular time. The frequent changes in price are usually down to factors beyond the owners’ control, but if you’re looking to put up your house for sale in the near future, it would be a wise decision to consider ways in which you can increase its value. While renovating each room can be on the expensive side, a great solution would be insulate the external walls.

An insulated house is one that is well secured against the harmful impact of extremely high or low temperature, humidity and other atmospheric factors. Hence, the reason why a house with external wall insulation has a greater value which you would not want to miss out on. What’s more? You’ll get a great thermal insulation with the top notch materials like foamed polystyrene, high quality renders, mineral wool or polyurethane.

With an external wall insulation, you know the transaction will always be favourable on both ends. You get to smile to the bank, while the buyer also gets to enjoy great value for every penny spent. To employ the services of a reliable external wall insulation expert, simply conduct an in depth research from family and friends, online and other sources. Go through their online reviews and ask questions to become more familiar with the process and its value-adding potentials.

The best way to clean resin bound driveways is to sweep it regularly with a stiff broom. This will remove any debris and prevent moss from growing. It's a good idea to jet wash it after sweeping, because this will get rid of any smaller parts that a broom might not collect.

When you jet wash or power wash your resin bound driveway, make sure the pressure isn’t too high. It’s recommended to keep the pressure less than 150bar, as anything too strong could damage the surface. Make sure the water is cool, but not cold – both hot and cold water can damage the resin. Make sure the jet wash nozzle is at least 20cm from the surface. Any closer and this could damage your driveway. Use a sweeping back and forth motion to clean.

If you treat the area before you have your resin bound driveway installed, you shouldn’t get any weed growth. But if you get any moss or algae appear, you can apply a moss and algae killer that should remove and prevent any regrowth. If you have ingrained algae, you can remove it with a strong bleach solution; make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. This should also help restore the driveway’s original colour. Make sure you rinse your driveway thoroughly with clean water after using bleach on it to prevent any harm to wildlife or plants.

If you get chewing gum on your resin bound driveway and you can’t get it off with a pressure washer, try using a freezing spray on it first. Then use a wall scraper to gently remove it – never dig under the chewing gum as this could damage the resin on your driveway.

Driveway work is usually done in the warmer half of the year. This is partly to avoid bad weather. If you want to get ahead and avoid waiting for a contractor to be free, you should try getting in touch with a professional in the early spring so a date can be booked for install as soon as practically possible.